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Old 01-16-2009, 09:15 PM   #15
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Is the fuse clipped tight in its holder? Is there a good connection at both ends of the fuse? If the fuse holder clip was loose it could get hot. You might need a new fuse holder

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Old 01-16-2009, 09:46 PM   #16
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waiting to get to it

Well, I didn't get the chance to do any electrical work today because my wife wanted some rotted flooring cut out (seems like the toilet might have leaked). I am definitely going to try all the suggestions. I think it's time to get an ohms meter and start learning. My wife and I are really chomping at the bit to get this thing done. I will get to it in the morning and let everyone know what happens. Sometimes I think it would be a heck of a lot easier to have just bought a newer one but we had always wanted a vintage airstream so I am not gonna complain. Thanks again everybody.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:00 PM   #17
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Shorts, don't melt fuses.

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Originally Posted by RandyG View Post
Just curious if anyone could give me some suggestions on this little problem we are having. We are restoring (amatuer level) a 1975 31ft rear bath. Recently I replaced the univolt with an Xantrax unit. I managed to save the old fuse panel thank goodness. I installed this about 3 months ago. Now for some reason the 1st fuse (20amp purple wire that goes to the rear bath lights, switch, and hallway overhead light) keeps melting. The wire itself gets EXTREMELY hot and starts smoking and the end of the fuse always melts now. I am trying for the life of me to figure out what in the world could be causing this. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do first? I am pretty handy but I am not the greatest at the electrical problems like this. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks to all!
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Hi, basic diagnosis:

(1.) Shorts, blow fuses.

(2.) Shorts and circuit overloads, trip circuit breakers.

(3.) Fuses and circuit breakers [correct size] protect wires and circuits.

(4.) Poor connections create heat and melt fuses and wire insulation.

(5.) Poor grounds cause things to work poorly.

(6.) Open circuits, hot or ground, cause things to not work at all.

(7.) Intermittant problems is a whole different animal.

Hi, only a poor connection at the fuse holder, [or not in this case] direct heat like in a flame or fire, will melt a fuse. [#(4.) above.] And [posts #6 & 15]
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Old 01-17-2009, 01:34 AM   #18
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Thanks, I think I am going to take the fuse panel off the wall and clean the connections (clips). It seems to me that the post that screws in and holds the wire is black versus the other ones which are silver. I don't know if that makes any difference but I am determined to get it fixed tomorrow. That is my main objective. Thanks
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:43 AM   #19
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It sure would be nice if the weather here in Wisconsin would allow ME to get out and work on my Safari... I hope it all goes well for you!
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:51 AM   #20
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I would also verify the size of the fuse that is heating up. Maybe the PO tried to troubleshoot the problem by installing larger fuses. Also make sure that nothing is shorting out the back side of the voltage distribution board to ground.
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:05 AM   #21
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Randy, in 120 v. wiring black means hot, white means common, green or bare wire means ground, and red means a second hot (such as in a 240 v. circuit). Auto and trailer 12 v. wiring should be similar but isn't most of the time. It's the hot wires that are usually fused, but in 12 v. anything is possible. The trailer body is the ultimate ground (even though it doesn't touch the actual earth). Ground and common go to the same place in 120 v. wiring, but in 12 v., there is no green or bare wire ground. These differences in 12 v. circuits in vehicles continually confound me and many others. It may be significant that one post in the box is black and the others appear to be bare metal since I would think it isn't an accident, but without seeing the panel, I can't be sure.

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Old 01-17-2009, 10:20 AM   #22
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The 12 volt distribution should look like mine. The purple wire is circuit number one. The wires from the converter (red and white) connect on the back side of the board.
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:18 PM   #23
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a quick way to check the bath circuit,is to switch the wires with another circuit,of the same size.This will tell you if its the wiring or the fuse holder.

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Old 01-17-2009, 08:28 PM   #24
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When the fuse is in, if you stand on the grass outside the trailer and touch the aluminum do you get a lifter that throws you 20 feet and do your eyeballs spin around like pinwheels? If so you have a dead short.

Use your right hand for this test, if you use your left the electricity will go thru your heart and kill you.

I AM KIDDING EVERYONE!!! Not about the danger though. PLEASE do not put in another fuse until you track down the problem. If you do not know how to do this safely call in an electrician, the life you save could be your own.
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:33 PM   #25
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Did some checking

A little update...I did the "Andy Test" (pulled out all the lights and installed one by one) and the lights wouldn't even come on until I had all the bulbs in. After that, it heated up again melting the fuse and making the wire hot. I didn't have much time so far this week to work on it ( I had to be in Las Vegas for work) but I plan on some more work this weekend. I am going to try the wire switching test to see if it is the fuse panel or the wire. I think it would be better if it was the fuse panel. I would guess pulling a new wire would be somewhat difficult. I will be glad when I can get this worked out and move on to those nasty looking leaky vista windows. Thanks so far for everyone's help, I am glad for a forum like this.....you guys ROCK!!!!
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:44 PM   #26
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SFC or AGC

Which type of fuse should be used in this airstream?
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:51 PM   #27
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That should be an SFE 20 amp fuse.
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyG View Post
A little update...I did the "Andy Test" (pulled out all the lights and installed one by one) and the lights wouldn't even come on until I had all the bulbs in. After that, it heated up again melting the fuse and making the wire hot. I didn't have much time so far this week to work on it ( I had to be in Las Vegas for work) but I plan on some more work this weekend. I am going to try the wire switching test to see if it is the fuse panel or the wire. I think it would be better if it was the fuse panel. I would guess pulling a new wire would be somewhat difficult. I will be glad when I can get this worked out and move on to those nasty looking leaky vista windows. Thanks so far for everyone's help, I am glad for a forum like this.....you guys ROCK!!!!
All the bulb circuits in your Airstream, are parallel.

If you had 10 bulbs as an example and took them all out, they should have lit up each time you plugged another one into it's socket.

You might also try using all different bulbs, instead of the originals. One bulb could be shorted internally.

Andy
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