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Old 01-08-2006, 05:04 PM   #57
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Everyone of them Got Screwed

Happy to report that we are done, or at least I figure so...uh ho!

A ground bar was just installed. The test for continuity was negative from box to neutral and from ground bar to neutral. Evidently the neutral bar supplied is in fact the lug bar connected to the two large lugs beneath it forming one neutral bus bar and based on the continuity test is isolated from the box.

Here's the final, final, final pic of the breaker box installation.

Ed
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Old 01-08-2006, 05:14 PM   #58
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Absolutely beautiful!

Karma to TomW for noticing the ungrounded box.
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Old 01-08-2006, 05:30 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardinbb
... Here's the final, final, final pic of the breaker box installation.
Excellent!

Fine job sir! You are now funtional as well as safe.

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Old 01-08-2006, 05:34 PM   #60
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outstanding!

it looks better than the factory installation in my trailer!

john
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Old 01-08-2006, 06:01 PM   #61
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Global Thanks

I thank all that took the time to comment and provide not only direction but answers as well on my venture into the wonderful world of installing 30amp service to an old trailer.

Until again,
Ed
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Old 01-08-2006, 06:23 PM   #62
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John

I always heard that grounding the outlets to the skin was a no no - is that true or does isolating the neutral take care of any problems...

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:28 PM   #63
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ken

they are that way by default in an airstream. at least in my trailer. the ears on the outlet are connected to the green ground screw.

when they are screwed directly onto the inner skin as they are in my trailer they are grounded.

isolating the neutral prevents any chance of energizing the skin if the polarity of the service is reversed.

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:43 PM   #64
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So then even the newer trailers have two wires running to each outlet, then ground to skin?

I figured that the newer trailers would have three wires running to each outlet - hot/neutral/ground.....

I think this is great, because I didn't think I would be able to ground the 58 without a compete rewire....learn something new every day....

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:46 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
So then even the newer trailers have two wires running to each outlet, then ground to skin?

I figured that the newer trailers would have three wires running to each outlet - hot/neutral/ground.....

I think this is great, because I didn't think I would be able to ground the 58 without a compete rewire....learn something new every day....

Ken
nope ken i think you misunderstood. or i didn't get what you were asking.

my trailer has 3 wires hot neutral and GROUND!

for safetys sake i would not rely on the skin for a ground in a 2 wire system. bet your trailer has ungrounded outlets.

looks like you are in for a rewire job.

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:58 PM   #66
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Hmmm that would require more surgery than I want to take on....my original plan was to continue with what was there. Is grounding the outlets to the skin better than not grounding? I figured there are many of these old Airstreams running around with two prong outlets.....

Whats the best way to be safe as possible without rewiring...?

Ken
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:11 PM   #67
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Hearsay or what was the context

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
I always heard that grounding the outlets to the skin was a no no - is that true or does isolating the neutral take care of any problems...
I guess I would like to hear who said that.

There is no problem with the ground connecion of the outlet making contact with the skin, but the big picture is that the skin should be connected to the shore power ground.

This connection starts at the breaker box, and is reinforced at each outlet, and in modern wiring, the switch.

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Old 01-08-2006, 07:13 PM   #68
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If I remember correctly, there was an article in the Vintage where someone had connected the ground to the skin and was throwing the GFI breaker in the campground

Ken J.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:17 PM   #69
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My '67 Overlander came from the factory with the ground wired to the skin. I have never had a problem with GFCI outlets at a campground.

As I recall, DavdZ71 had a problem such as you desribe. He ultimately traced it back to some un-code friendly wiring in his Airstream done by a previous owner.

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Old 01-08-2006, 07:53 PM   #70
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hey ken

you can just use what you have. after all, it is not like you are going to be using a table saw or a lathe in the trailer.

other than a lamp or two, a toaster and a tv set what were you planning on pluggin in the '58? the only item that definately would need a ground would be your power converter. you could make a special run for just that. or place it next to the electrical entrance.

what you have should work...you may want to just upgrade the cord and fuse box to something modern.

john
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