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Old 12-14-2005, 11:34 PM   #29
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Perfect

Thanks! Markdoane
Where do I get one?
Obviously just cause it was not shown on the Dryers RV site dosen't mean it doesn't exist!

And Fred, the bumper locker will be great for storing the extension cord, but I am very curious as to how you have configured your set-up.

Appreciation to all,
Ed
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:02 AM   #30
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Ed,
The power cord along with the sewer hose fits fine in the bumper storage area of my 75 Trade Wind. The problem I have at my house is that it comes up about 6 feet short of my outlet. I have an extra 25 foot extension that I bought at CW to solve that problem. I also have an adapter that goes over the cable end to convert it to 15 amp service. With that I can plug in anywhere, but not use the AC. If you do not have them I would also suggest you purchase the following 2 items.
1. A multi meter
2. A polarity checker (plugs into a wall outlet)
You can get both at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace HW, Radio Shack etc. They are not expensive and a must have for electical work. My trailers PO had a polarity checker plugged into an outlet in the kitchen and it is still there.
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:39 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardinbb
Thanks! Markdoane
Where do I get one?
Ed
Camping World has them, with $1 shipping charge.
http://reserveamerica.campingworld.c...28231&src=CROS
There's a store in San Bernadino.
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Old 12-15-2005, 11:13 AM   #32
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Goin' shoppin'

Thanks guys, all is appreciated. Now comes the quality question. Has anybody found a difference in quality between the RV supplier plugs and housings verses those supplied by the boat/marine retailers? I figure, which I've demonstrated I ought to stop doing, that the plug itself is pretty universal and it's the aesthetic of the housing that becomes the preference.
Any comments on finish?
And do you experienced folks have a preference for the cord style? Evidently there's been some design progression in how the ends are configured together with handle styles. Ya also got your colored cords, and all kinds of adapters for all kinds of conditions.

So I guess the question now is, what's your optimum cord and plug configuration based on your experience?

Ed
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:46 PM   #33
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I'm pretty sure the RV inlet pictured above is a Marinco product, which is also a popular marine manufacturer.

I bought the 50a ParkPower (tm) conversion kit, which includes the power inlet and the matching female end, along with an electrical box. This is what you could use if you have an existing hardwired powercord.

In your case, you would probably want to buy a new cord that has the molded-on male plug on one end, and a 30a twist-lok female on the other end. If you buy the cord with the female end already attached, you don't need to buy the kit, just the recessed male inlet that was shown above.
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Old 12-15-2005, 01:25 PM   #34
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What FUN!

I agree, the Camping World non-metalic power inlet is a Marinco product. A quick search reveals that these are available fro $31 to $89.00! Their stainless model I've found can be had anywhere from $56.00 to $119.00!
I've settled on the Hubbell Ss303 Inlet 30a-125v , its the same as the square cover on the Marinco but the cover and backplate is stainless. It's all a matter of image and what you what to look at when your working with it. But I think the finish image of this model is the most condusive to the lines of a 60's AS.

Thanks everybody, I'm now armed with the proper material list for the electrical upgrade. And FRED, let's have a look at your hard wired set up!

Thanks ever so much,
Ed
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Old 12-15-2005, 01:38 PM   #35
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The Hubbell cover is very nice. And they make a matching telephone & cable TV inlet.
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Old 12-15-2005, 03:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardinbb
And FRED, let's have a look at your hard wired set up! Thanks ever so much, Ed
Ed: Here are two photos of my shore power line routingin my 1964 Ohio built 19' Globe Trotter. The first photo on the left shows the thick black power cord line going forward into the street side frame member "C" channel on the streetside of the rear bumper storage area. The second photo in the center shows that same thick black power line coming up out of the floor in the service area and heading up out of sight to the breaker box, to which it is hardwired. You can also see the city water inlet towards the left in the left hand photo. I keep a 90 degree "L" permanemtly attached to it to make connecting a hose much easier than the Airstream engineers intended it to be. FWIW, California built '64 Globe Trotters have some of their utilities located in different positions than mine. Is your '64 TW California or Ohio built?
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Old 12-15-2005, 04:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47WeeWind
... Is your '64 TW California or Ohio built?
Excellent question.

I had the opportunity to help fellow forum member till prep his '67 Overlander for transit, and was amazed at the differences between his California-built Airstream, and my same-year-same-model, Ohio built American Classic.

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Old 12-15-2005, 05:27 PM   #38
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Hey Fred,
Looks good, seems that's about the only place a cable like that could work! My unit was built in SantaFe,CA. Your water service is mounted on the inside of bumper locker! Mine's on the outside coming through the streetside c channel. But I think they were both made the same because I think I now know what that extra little trap door was for on the left bottom of the old bumper locker pan. Here's a shot of mine below. It was probably altered for ease of use. Actually I like the hose bib. I'd be a bit happier if I could find one in silver or stainless.

Ed
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:34 PM   #39
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Hi Ed;
I hope you managed to get everything straightened out. My '66 Airtstream Overlander had a blown water heater when I purchased it. After replacing the original with a 10 gallon lowboy 120 volt electric water heater, I rewired my panel. Originally, I thought I'd have to change the whole breaker box. My panel was wired using the 30 amp breaker as a main with two 20 breakers and a 30 amp supply cord. I was able to connect the main power wires supplying the panel directly to the bus bar. This gave me the 30 amp breaker ( which I ran to the air conditioner only), and the two 20 amp breakers ( one for lights and one for the water heater). I still have the original Univolt DC supply and the Armstrong air conditioner.

This has worked with no problems for several years now. The parks I hook up to have a 30 amp breaker which basically does the same as the one in the trailer which used to serve as a main. The equipment you run may or may not pull the full rated amperage, depending on it's requirements at the time. I have had to use a 20 amp plug in when working on my unit and have had no problems servicing the A/C like this. I do turn off the hot water heater and only run the A/C long enough to service it.

I just purchased a Newmark power converter and will be upgrading the DC voltage supply soon. Good luck with your project.
Calvin
Just a note: If you change your 15 amp supply plug to a 30 amp, make sure your power cord wires are #10 AWG ( This is the minimum size required to service 30 amps.) That should be standard, but making assumptions can lead to problems!
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:51 PM   #40
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Calvin,

Your rewiring may be functional, but it is not permitted by Nat'l Elec. Code.

It's your trailer, do what you want, but please be careful about what you recommend other people do.

Also, please put a big sign on the panel indicating it doesn't have a main disconnect. Most service people expect to see a main 30a breaker they can use to disconnect all power to the branch circuits. Without that you could hurt someone.

Also, let me know if you ever decide to sell your airstream.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:05 PM   #41
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New 30amp Service

Hi all, hereís my follow-up to the forum advice that was so kindly provided and warmly received. I ran down all the circuits or feeds by hooking up the battery with jumper cables to the various bare wires and using a test meter, found out what went where and how. I bought GE breakers and box. I finalized the breaker configuration as follows;

Electrical Circuits 64 Tradewind 120v
One: 20amp GFI
Bath duplex, curbside bed duplex, curbside exterior outlet, curbside counter top duplex and refrigerator duplex outlet
Two: 15amp GFI
Kitchen counter duplex, Goucho curbside duplex, 15amp exterior power inlet
Three: 15amp
Intellipower converter, original heater fan motor, original thermostat, street side bed duplex outlet
Four: 20amp
Air Conditioner (Brisk Aire Duo Therm)
Five: Blank Empty Nada


I wasnít able to provide a Main Breaker for two reasons, one is I bought the wrong box and two, once I figured that out, didnít have a breaker that would straddle the two middle lugs to power the entire breaker bar or bus. So the auxiliary power lugs are jumped together from the power source and that left me an extra slot (#5) for a future breaker. The ground wires are all together at the red wire nut and a jumper is run from there to one of the available ground lugs. No issues with the neutral lines. Plugged it in and everything tests properly now that a couple of open grounded plugs were reworked and one that was hot neutral reversed.

I think the last issue with this installation is the front curbside exterior 15amp power inlet. This is the same type power inlet that used to feed the old breaker box at the rear of the trailer. It resides on circuit Two and IF plugged in to shore power, I believe it would be providing power behind the #2 breaker, not threw it and I donít think thatís the way itís supposed to be. The way the breaker box is inherently configured, power in this manner to circuit Two would also provide power to circuit Five. Then again, the shore power is run through a breaker at itsí source so I really donít know about this item. Seems to me that the regular power inlet at the rear of the coach powers all and why this extra one is on the front I ainít got a clue or why it would be installed in the manner it is. Is there some convenience that this inlet provides ? Or do ya think it otta be abandoned and a nice patch be put in its place?

Ed
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:21 PM   #42
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Post #40

Geeze, I just re-read the above post about having a main breaker. The way the box is configured is that there are 4 breaker positions, #2&3 will power the entire bus.
What type of breaker, given my box configuration, will fix this?

Thanks again,
Ed
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