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Old 07-24-2011, 12:18 PM   #261
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New findings and new breaker box

I did what you said and found that the red wire coming out at the bottom of the old distribution box is, indeed, the wire that connects to the old converter - so I can just leave it be (since I'm putting in new wires) or pull it out, right?

And, the dirty black wire belongs to the TV wiring. So! I think I have everything identified as far as 12VDC goes. I just realized today after I took out the old 120VAC breaker box that I don't know which wire belongs to the a/c. There are three cloth covered wires that come out of the wall and went into the breaker box and one of them goes to the a/c (I was going to try to utilize that one because I can't figure out where the wiring is that is in the a/c to tie in new wiring). But I failed to tag it before I tore it all out so now what do I do? Is there any way I can trace the wire without electrocuting myself and see if it goes to the a/c short of hooking each wire up individually to the new breaker and see if the a/c works?

Speaking of breaker box, I have posted a picture of my new one which is a little bit different than the Traveler's. I will put the black wires in the breakers, the white wires in the little screw things on the left, install a ground kit (which I have) and run all the bare copper ground wires to it, right?

Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.

I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?

Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.

Thanks!

Lindy
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:56 PM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucymcdog View Post
Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.
NO. The big connector on the left is for the neutral (white wire) on the shore power cable. The red wire should be between the 2 connectors on the right. The black wire in the shore power cable will connect to the 30 amp breaker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucymcdog View Post
I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?
Just wire the existing cables (cloth covered) one into each breaker (black wire) connect the white wires to the neutral buss and the ground wires to the ground buss.
Once you have shore power; just turn on the breakers one at a time to determine which one is for the A/C.

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Originally Posted by lucymcdog View Post
Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.
It's your choice, if you have room for another breaker I would put it in. That way you can shut the converter off and only the bath outlet will be affected.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:00 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by lucymcdog View Post
Is there any way I can trace the wire without electrocuting myself and see if it goes to the a/c short of hooking each wire up individually to the new breaker and see if the a/c works?

Speaking of breaker box, I have posted a picture of my new one which is a little bit different than the Traveler's. I will put the black wires in the breakers, the white wires in the little screw things on the left, install a ground kit (which I have) and run all the bare copper ground wires to it, right?

Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.

I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?

Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.
Nope. The red wire needs to go in between the two big screws next to the black breakers. The way you have it now, you've connected the hot black wire of the 110 vac to the white neutral - a direct short! Not good at all.

like on your other trailer, connect the shore power black wire to the 30 amp breaker. One 20 amp breaker for the a/c. If you need to, connect the black wires from the 110 vac circuits to the breakers one at a time until you find the one that goes to the a/c.

I would add another breaker for the converter and bath. That's probably the easiest way to add the extra outlets - just run new wires for them from the breaker box. If you can tie into one of the existing circuits, then go ahead and do so for the bath outlet. But I think the converter should be on its own circuit if you can do that. Personal opinion.

Chris
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:13 PM   #264
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Originally Posted by lucymcdog View Post
I did what you said and found that the red wire coming out at the bottom of the old distribution box is, indeed, the wire that connects to the old converter - so I can just leave it be (since I'm putting in new wires) or pull it out, right?


If the wire is #10 you can use it to provide the +12 volts to your new fused distribution block from the new converter via the 30 amp AGU fuse block. Same goes for the white wire that is the mate to the red one. Connect it to the 30 amp AGU fuse block and the other end to the ground/common buss on the new fused distribution block.

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I am assuming you will mount the 2 30 amp AGU fuse blocks close to the converter and the new fused distribution block will be located near the old fuse block.
Don't leave the old red wire connected to the converter it must connect to the 30 amp fuse; same goes for the white. Look carefully at the drawing and I think you will see what I mean.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:04 PM   #265
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Hi Lindy,

In case you missed this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ml#post1028513

Chris
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:01 AM   #266
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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
Hi Lindy,

In case you missed this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ml#post1028513

Chris
I've been out of town and haven't been on the forums lately so I did miss the pictures of the crib. Thanks for sending me the link.

I hope to get the breaker box, battery, and fuses in today. I won't plug it in though until I get an "A-OK". Stay tuned for pictures!

Enjoy that baby! She'll be walking and chattering before you know it...P
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:37 PM   #267
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Do I dare plug it in?

I was able to get the breaker box installed and wired but gave out of steam for the 12V stuff so I'll have to do that tomorrow. I only got the converter wired and anchored and the two 30 amp fuse holders half-wired and anchored.

Does my breaker box look like it is ok to plug in the trailer? I have the shore power to the 30 amp breaker then a separate 20 amp breaker for the streetside outlets, another for the fridge and curbside outlets, another for the converter, and the last for the a/c.

I took the original ground wire that was on the other breaker box and bolted it to the side of the new box. The other end is attached to the frame of the trailer. Was I supposed to do that? Seems like I did it on my little trailer but I didn't go look to see.

I had to relocate the breaker box from where it was originally because I couldn't fit in the tiny space where it had been to re-do it. I ran new wiring from the breaker box to a junction box where it will join with the original a/c wiring when I get it identified. That will be the only original 120 VAC wiring that I will use. Everything else has been covered and/or eliminated.

I used #6 red and white wire to run from the converter to the 30 amp fuse holders. On the 12VDC wiring chart there is a white wire running from the input end of the fuse box to a funny looking symbol. Am I correct to assume that it is a #6 wire that is screwed to the frame somewhere as the ground? Should I tie it into the original ground wire that I bolted to the breaker box?

The battery will sit directly below the converter and fuses so there won't be but about 2' at the most of wire between the two. I will put the new fuse box where the old one was.

Will it be ok to use #10 wire to go to the battery terminals? I might have enough of the #6 and can use it if it would be better. I'm not sure any other wires could fit into the little fuse holder with the #6 wiring though.

If I get the ok to plug it in as is and you don't hear from me tomorrow, you'll know it didn't work. Maybe at least I will go to Airstream heaven...
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:50 PM   #268
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The breaker box looks ok - great job!

I'm puzzled by the extra white wire on the fuse holder coming off the converter though.

Chris
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:23 PM   #269
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I'm puzzled by the extra white wire on the fuse holder coming off the converter though.

Chris
I was following the wiring chart from TG Twinkie. The extra white wire goes to a funny looking symbol that I think indicates the ground to the trailer. Does that make sense?
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:33 PM   #270
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You are correct: it is the ground/common to the frame/skin. On the drawing it is the yellow line that goes to three black horizontal lines each shorter than the one above. It is the electrical symbol for ground.

Will it be ok to use #10 wire to go to the battery terminals? I might have enough of the #6 and can use it if it would be better. I'm not sure any other wires could fit into the little fuse holder with the #6 wiring though.
Yes; as long as the fuse is not larger than 30 amp.

Looks good for powering up. I don't think you will be going to heaven quite yet.

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Old 08-07-2011, 09:57 AM   #271
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Oh Shoot!

While starting on the battery stuff, I realized that I don't know what white wire goes with what black wire.

I guess I'm supposed to know that, right?

So do I do the meter thing again? But now the converter isn't connected to anything - nor are the black wires - so any suggestions??? Will I get a reading if nothing is connected but I put the probes on the black and white wires individually?
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:10 PM   #272
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It really doesn't matter since all of the white wires are virtually connected to the same place. You will need to identify each of the black wires in order to fuse each circuit properly. You can just connect the blacks to individual terminals on the new fuse block and then install the correct size fuse.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:52 PM   #273
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It really doesn't matter since all of the white wires are virtually connected to the same place. You will need to identify each of the black wires in order to fuse each circuit properly. You can just connect the blacks to individual terminals on the new fuse block and then install the correct size fuse.
WHEW!!! Glad to hear that since I thought I was screwed because I didn't know what white wire went with which black wire. I have identified all the black wires so that is not a problem.

However, in the diagram you made for me you have a white wire going from the 30a fuse holder to the TV. How do I do that if I don't know which white wire is for the TV?

I plugged in the trailer today and am still alive so I guess everything works. I was able to identify the A/C so that will work now too. I think I am pretty much through with the 120 VAC but need some more supplies to finish up the 12 VDC.
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:07 PM   #274
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Since you have a white wire connected to the frame/skin all you need to do is make sure you have the white wire in the UCord connected to the frame of the trailer. Just like you did on the Traveler.
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:07 PM   #275
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Houston, We have a problem...

I wired all the existing 12V wires into the fuse box, putting the #10 red wire from the other end of the 30 amp fuse holder to the + nut on the fuse box. I put the TV black wire on the nut as well (as in my little trailer). I was unable to solder the solid copper to the stranded wire so I covered the stranded with solder and put both in a wire nut. I did the same for all the white wires coming out of the trailer and put the white #10 from the 30 amp fuse holder on the negative nut. All other white wires have the little push in things and are connected to the - part of the fuse box.

I get absolutely nothing - no lights, no propane detector, no water pump.

I plugged in the shore power and still nothing (except for the 120VAC outlets).

I took out my handy-dandy meter thing and tried to get readings on the fuse box. Nothing. I tried it on the battery itself and got readings in the 13-14 range. Put the meter on the wires coming out of the converter and got readings in the 13-14 range. Put the meter on the wires coming out of the 30 amp fuse holders and got readings.

I then disconnected the red wire from the fuse holder, put the + probe on the end of it and the - on the trailer and got a reading. Put it all back together and touched the + probe on the + nut (with the red converter wire and the TV wire attached) and got nothing. Even tried it with the - probe on the side of the trailer.

Now what??? Could the problem be that it isn't grounded correctly? I connected the #10 white ground wire that comes out of the 30 amp fuse holder to the ground wire that is original to the trailer (I have the 120VAC ground wire connected to this as well). Should I have connected it to a screw in a rib instead?

aaaagggghhhhh!!!!
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:45 PM   #276
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HI Lindy,

I'm heading out the door. Can you post a picture of the fuse box all wired up? I'm a visual type of person...

On the plus side, you're still with us and able to report on your problem.

Chris
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:59 AM   #277
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Hi Lindy;
Does your iPod work where you have the trailer parked? If so, maybe I can walk you thru the check out. I could understand that you might not have power if only the converter was connected, especially if you have a short, the converter would just shut down. But if you have the battery connected you would at the very least blow a fuse.
I am assuming the red wire you are referring to is the one from the 30 amp fuse to the new fuse block.
I'll wait to hear from you and if your iPod works we should be able to figure it out. The iPod won't work inside the trailer and I can't remember if the shelter is metal, you would have to be in line if site of the house.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:17 AM   #278
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Woo hoo!!!

I went out this morning and redid some of the connections and now everything works! What it was is that the red wire from the converter wasn't making good contact with the nut on the fuse box.

I haven't checked out my TV lights but will try to do that soon.

Guess that pretty much wraps up the electrical stuff - now on to installing a new black tank, refinishing all the wood, putting in PEX plumbing, probably installing a new fridge... etc, etc, etc.

I'll be back if the TV doesn't work.

Regardless, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU (once again!) for all your help. At least this time it didn't take 200+ posts. Maybe on the next trailer (yeah, right) I can do it on my own...
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:38 AM   #279
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I knew you could fix it.

Good Job! It won't be long and you will be helping others with their electrical problems.
I would recommend that you print out a copy of the electrical drawing and keep it in the trailer. And of course always carry spare fuses.
Do you have a fridge in the trailer now? Do you know if it works? Is it in good enough shape to where you might want to see if you can get it to work?
Have a good day.
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:45 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
Good Job! It won't be long and you will be helping others with their electrical problems.
I would recommend that you print out a copy of the electrical drawing and keep it in the trailer. And of course always carry spare fuses.
Do you have a fridge in the trailer now? Do you know if it works? Is it in good enough shape to where you might want to see if you can get it to work?
Have a good day.
Yes.the original fridge is in the trailer. Since it is gas and electric I thought I would try plugging it in to it's new plug and see what happens. Maybe if it works on electric it will work on propane. It is in pretty good shape so I'd like to keep it if it is fixable . Besides, new grudges are expensive!

Good plan to keep a drawing of the wiring in the trailer. I have all my diagrams I've used in a notebook but that's not much help when camping. And I learned the "carry spare fuses" lesson the hard way on our trip to Texas in the spring. I now have extras in both trailers!

As for me giving advice on wiring, I think I'll leave that to the folks who know what they're doing! I WILL direct them to this thread though!
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