Electrical & 12V system

[TG Twinkie]

When you put the contact cement on the surfaces it "outgases" (dries)very rapidly. I also have a wood burning stove in my shop where I did the work. I just kept the door open to let fresh air in while the cement was drying. Then closed the door and warmed up the place before putting the formica on the counter top. My shop is about 400 square feet, so it didn't take long to warm it up. If I remember right is takes about 24 hours for the stuff to cure completely. So if you can keep it warm for that period you'll be OK. Good Luck!

[lucymcdog]

IT WORKED!!!

Blinkers, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, license plate light. YEA!

The formica is down but it isn't my favorite thing to mess with. One boo-boo but it was fixable...

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

If I remember right is takes about 24 hours for the stuff to cure completely. So if you can keep it warm for that period you'll be OK. Good Luck!

Thanks - good to know. I didn't know it took 24 hours to cure so I'll just bring it into the house since I can't keep the shop warm all night.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Have you bought a converter yet? If not there is a 45 amp unit on EBay for a really good price. It's an Inteli-Power PD9245C for $129.59 including shipping. I just bought one for the TWINKIE. It's suppose to be one of the latest and greatest. For that price, I just had to try it out. 45amps would be more than you will ever need. OH! and it's new not used.
I've been wanting to replace the old Univolt for some time now. So another project is in the making.

Sounds like a good price - do I need one if I install a solar panel to charge the battery?

[TG Twinkie]

Glad to hear everything worked. AGAIN: EXCELLENT JOB!

I don't believe a solar panel will be enough to keep your battery charged when your trailer is in use. Especially if you have to get a new fridge that requires 12 volts to operate. The water pump and the furnace also require a considerable amount of power to operate. Don't know what you had planned for heat.
If you plan to be plugged into the "grid", then I would recommend a converter.
I'm not sure what size panel you were planning to install. They are rated in watts. When the makers of the panels rate the output it is for a brite sunny day, much like those you have there in the valley. So their output is not constant, even on sunny days because of the angle facing the sun.

I would recommend that you check out the articles in the forum that deal with solar before you buy a solar panel system or a converter for that matter.
I think you will find that solar panels are still very expensive for something that would keep up if you use the battery power much. Most people from what I can see who camp off the "Grid" for extended periods of time with solar also have a generator.
If you have a generator and want to charge the battery; you will need a converter; if you are on the grid and want to charge the battery you will need a converter.

[TG Twinkie]

Lindy; Here are a few comments from people who have solar. Most have an alternative power source (ie generator): especially in the colder climates.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ain-72048.html

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Glad to hear everything worked. AGAIN: EXCELLENT JOB!

I don't believe a solar panel will be enough to keep your battery charged when your trailer is in use. Especially if you have to get a new fridge that requires 12 volts to operate. The water pump and the furnace also require a considerable amount of power to operate. Don't know what you had planned for heat.
If you plan to be plugged into the "grid", then I would recommend a converter.
I'm not sure what size panel you were planning to install. They are rated in watts. When the makers of the panels rate the output it is for a brite sunny day, much like those you have there in the valley. So their output is not constant, even on sunny days because of the angle facing the sun.

I would recommend that you check out the articles in the forum that deal with solar before you buy a solar panel system or a converter for that matter.
I think you will find that solar panels are still very expensive for something that would keep up if you use the battery power much. Most people from what I can see who camp off the "Grid" for extended periods of time with solar also have a generator.
If you have a generator and want to charge the battery; you will need a converter; if you are on the grid and want to charge the battery you will need a converter.

Most of the time when we go camping, we're not in a campground. Usually at a lake fishing and no hookups or somewhere on national forest service or BLM land. Our heater is only propane (if, of course, it works) and doesn't have any DC hookup at all. As yet, I don't know if we will have to get another fridge. I plan to have probably just 2 or 3 small DC lights and we do have a propane light that we will probably use most of the time.

But, if it isn't a big deal to install (AND you can walk me through it), the converter you told me about on e-bay isn't that much $$ so it might be worth it to go ahead and put it in and then I'd have other options. We don't like generators so if we're boondocking we'd have to have solar or just be very conservative with the battery. And Chris told me how to have a spare battery that can be charged off the TV while driving back and forth to the fishing hole.

So, how big a deal is it to install?

[TG Twinkie]

Lindy;
It's super simple. I can't remember if the one I ordered has an AC cord with a plug already attached. I've looked at sooo many lately. If not, I plan to put a cord on with a plug for the AC side and then it will just plug into an AC outlet. Th PD9245C converter will draw 725 watts, which is about 6 amps on the AC side.
The DC side has 2 wires, one positive and one negative. With your setup you would just connect the Positive black wire to the center of the fuse block where you have the black wire for the battery, then connect the Negative white wire to the center post of the ground/common bus where you have all of the white wires connected. That's it! No fuses or anything. The reason I say connect it to the center post; they have a higher current carrying capacity than the stab on connectors. Use #8 wire for the DC side; #6 would be even better.
I am going to assume you would install it close to the location of the fuse blocks. If you locate it any distance from there, then we would have to consider larger wire for the DC side.
It should not be in a small space where the air won't circulate; it does have a fan.
If you decide to buy one; we can have a more detailed discussion on location.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by lucymcdog

IT WORKED!!!

Blinkers, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, license plate light. YEA!

The formica is down but it isn't my favorite thing to mess with. One boo-boo but it was fixable...

WooHoo!!!! Fantastic job Lindy!

Chris

[lucymcdog]

Is this the one?

Progressive Dynamics Inteli-power RV Converter PD9245
New PD9245C Camper 12 volt 9200 series intelli-power

In order for it to be near the fuse box it would have to go under the dinette seat. We could put a grill on the face of the seat - would that work? Sounds easy enough to do since I also have an outlet right there.

[TG Twinkie]

Yes that is the one. It looks like they have increased the shipping cost by $3.20; must be for the holidays. I paid $9.60 for shipping.
The grill idea sounds good, especially if you could locate the Converter so that the air blows out the grill. I'm pretty sure that the fan on the back of the unit will pull air acrossed the unit and blow it away, rather than force air thru the unit; but that's only a guess.
I believe this is the same location that your water pump is located. If so, I would recommend installing a shelf to set the Converter on. Maybe 4" high, incase there is a water leak. Also some kind of diverter to deflect any water away from the Converter if the discharge hose or fittings spring a leak. I would put the shield so it is over the pump and fittings not the Converter.
I just noticed that the one you selected is from a different vendor. I got mine thru a place called RandP Carriages. I'll look to see if I can find the web site address. I was afraid this would time out since I'm editing the message.

[TG Twinkie]

Lindy; go to www.randcarriages.com Then to Electrical Controls on the left; Scroll down the page, you will find it on the right hand side. shipping is $9.60
I'm not sure what it means when it says 5+ hours. I guess that's the time left to buy the thing.

[TG Twinkie]

Lindy: Here is the same one for $127.00 including shipping.

PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS INTELI POWER 45 AMP RV CONVERTER - eBay (item 140492394818 end time Dec-29-10 12:10:39 PST)

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Lindy: Here is the same one for $127.00 including shipping.

PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS INTELI POWER 45 AMP RV CONVERTER - eBay (item 140492394818 end time Dec-29-10 12:10:39 PST)

Thanks! I bought it and will let you know if I need any more help when I get it. Sounds like it will be pretty simple to install.

[lucymcdog]

I got my converter in today and have just a couple of questions. I can't do anything until I can get some #6 or #8 wire so I have plenty of time.

It's pretty straightforward - I put the white #6 or 8 in the negative hole and tighten it down and the black wire in the positive hole.

Do I need to put solder on the wires before I put them in the holes or can I just poke them in and tighten well?

Do you know what the "remote pendant" is for? There is an accessory port on the side and a little remote control looking thing that says "manual overide" on it. The connection is with a telephone wire and squeeze connector. Is this something that should be exposed so that I can get to it easily?

[Minno]

Hi Lindy,

New toys are always nice, aren't they?

I don't think you need to solder the ends of the wires before you stick them in the holes and tighten them down. I wouldn't unless the instructions that came with it specifically said to do that, so you may want to double check the installation instructions to see if they recommend soldering the ends or not.

The remote pendant is a remote monitor for the converter. The intention of it is to be mounted in a visible place so you can see what the converter's doing - that is, what mode it's currently in. I honestly don't know why you would ever want to manually change the mode of operation. It change modes automatically based on the charged state of the battery. I think you could mount it anyplace that makes sense to you, even inside the cabinet that will house the converter, since I doubt you'll really check it that much. Personally, if I had a blinking light inside the trailer that was visible all night long while I was trying to sleep, I'd disconnect it...

Chris

[TG Twinkie]

Hi Lindy;
No need to solder the wires. I installed mine just the day before yesterday. I bought #6 battery cables at Wal Mart; they are nice and flexible.. They are the type that have the eyelet on the end. Then it's just a matter of chopping the eyelet off of one end; connect the eyelet on the other end to the distribution block, route the wire where you want it to go; cut it to length (if needed) and connect it to the inverter. Do the same for the ground/common connection. The manufacturer cautions you NOT to over tighten the connections. Also, you need to run a ground wire from the connector on the side of the unit to the skin of the trailer; any #10 wire will work.
Since the old battery is shot and I didn't see the point in buying a new battery 6 months before I need it; I just pulled the 50 amp fuse on the positive side going to the house battery. Now I have DC power in the trailer as long as I have it plugged into shore power.
I couldn't find a white battery cable so I just used black and painted the ends of the negative cable white. It works for me. You could use red and black if you choose to. RED is positive and BLACK is negative.

Did you get the instruction sheets with the converter? If not, I'll be happy to run copies of mine and email them to you. I have the same converter.

I didn't get the remote pendant with my converter and agree with Chris; don't see much value in the thing myself. I plan to wire in a voltmeter sometime in the future.

[lucymcdog]

Mine didn't come with instructions but your instructions seem easy enough to follow. It will probably be next week before I can make it over to Wally-World to get the battery cables. That sounds like an easy way to do it. If I have any problems I'll get you to send me the instructions.

I still haven't installed my battery but might try to get that done this week. All I need to do is affix the battery box to the tongue, stick the battery in the box and hook up the wires that are just sitting there waiting to go to work.

[lucymcdog]

After days of single digit cold and a head cold to boot, I was finally able to work on the trailer again today.

I got my battery installed this afternoon and hooked up the converter and, amazingly enough, everything is working as it should. My overhead 12V light works, the converter is charging the battery and the water pump works - as well as its switch and indicator light.

I think I am now through with electrical work? Needless to say, I'm happy that its all done and all works but sad that now I won't get any more lessons from you guys.

Is there something else I need to learn from you? How to test the brakes?
How to install the toilet and black tank? How to build the dinette?

Again, I want to thank you for being such good (and patient) teachers. The lessons I have learned are invaluable and will serve me well on the next airstream that I redo (I'm looking at a 1960 14' Pacer that is SO cute but the guy won't sell - yet).

[azflycaster]

I did not solder the wires to my unit, I just tightened them down. The remote pendant will show you which charge state the converter is in and the button will allow you to manually change the current state. I mounted mine on the inside wall of a closet in my bathroom. I think the blinking could be annoying at night if it was mounted where it was in plane site. More information can be found here:
PD92201 Remote Pendant