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Old 12-11-2010, 02:02 PM   #99
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That's YOUR trailer? I already downloaded that picture long ago to save in my "how-to-do-a-dinette" file! I love the way you framed in the end pieces.

When I get to that stage, I'll start another thread and get more info about it - measurements, how high, how you did your table, etc., etc., etc....
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:33 PM   #100
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Trailer umbilical cord?

I know they aren't good pictures but I found these pictures I took after we took out the rotten front floor. I think the Ucord is just to the left of the frame and then goes out through the belly pan and up into the wall? Would it go THROUGH the frame?

Maybe that is where I need to cut a hole in the wall?

If only I had known to do something with it while it was all open...
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:00 PM   #101
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Do you mean here?
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Then yes, if you cut an access hole in the wall, you should find the ucord, and hopefully, where it connects to the trailer's wiring harness. Even if there are no connectors there, you'll be able to splice into the cord.

Chris
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:54 PM   #102
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Yellow Wires

I wasn't sure where the yellow wire off of the switch went. So it's just coiled up and laying there next to where one end is connected to the switch?
I didn't realize that you had taken the old fuse holder out. I would assume that you took out the 3 yellow wires as well? If this is the case there isn't anything you can do with the jumper and the meter.
Is the switch located in the cabinet where the sink is or was?
Have you totally gutted the inside of the trailer?
Where are the 2 blue wires located? I can see the old fuse holder in one of the photos you just posted. But I don't see the 2 blue wires.
I see you posted a brochure of what must have been your trailer when it was new. Are you going with the same or similar floor plan? No matter what you will have to plan ahead for the installation of the water pump it's switch and light along with any other 12volt devices you have in the trailer. Since the interior skin still exist and I would assume you don't want to remove it, you will have to route the wiring behind or within the cabinetry etc.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:02 AM   #103
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wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I wasn't sure where the yellow wire off of the switch went. So it's just coiled up and laying there next to where one end is connected to the switch? yes. It is coiled up under the sink cabinet.
I didn't realize that you had taken the old fuse holder out. I would assume that you took out the 3 yellow wires as well? I did - but before I did I looked at what they were hooked to and one went to the water pump and the other went to that other pump looking thing. If this is the case there isn't anything you can do with the jumper and the meter.
Is the switch located in the cabinet where the sink is or was? The switch and light are on the front of the galley cabinet.
Have you totally gutted the inside of the trailer? Mostly gutted. We left in the cabinet with the fridge - in hopes that the fridge will actually work.
Where are the 2 blue wires located? Inside in the front of the trailer, curbside - right in the curve. The old fuse box was located just above the blue wires, about a foot. I can see the old fuse holder in one of the photos you just posted. But I don't see the 2 blue wires.
I see you posted a brochure of what must have been your trailer when it was new. Are you going with the same or similar floor plan? Yes, we will put in a dinette and everything else will stay as I got it. The PO had taken out whatever was in the front and put in a tacky cabinet so that was the first to go. No matter what you will have to plan ahead for the installation of the water pump it's switch and light along with any other 12volt devices you have in the trailer. Since the interior skin still exist and I would assume you don't want to remove it, you will have to route the wiring behind or within the cabinetry etc. I routed the 120 VAC new wiring around the floor behind and within the cabinetry and will do the same with the 12VDC wires. The wiring that can't be concealed in cabinetry is in wiring chases that will be painted the same color as the wall.
I found another little 12V light that was original to the trailer and I will put it in the bathroom area, connect the ceiling light (12V), the water pump, propane detector and whatever I need for the fridge if I have to get a new one. That should be about all for 12V so I think I will be able to hide the wiring easily enough.
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Old 12-12-2010, 12:02 PM   #104
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So we still have the other blue wire to ID. Are there any overhead cabinets in this trailer? Could you post a few shots of the inside. I'm more curious than anything to see what it came with. Haven't seen one that is as old as yours. As I recall you said there is only one light fixture in the trailer. Are there switches anywhere other than the one for the pump? I noticed that in the posting of the brochure on the trailer there is no light on the outside by the door. Is yours the same? No outside light.
Do you have any clue as to where the little 12V light you found might have been mounted?
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:44 PM   #105
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Yea!

I cut a hole in the wall at the front on the inside and voila! there was the wiring harness! Exactly where I cut the hole! I was so excited!!!

I pulled everything through the hole - as well as the stub of UCord and have posted a picture of what I found. There are two green trailer wires connected to the one UCord wire which was as expected. When I run all this through the fuse box (which I haven't received yet), do I put each of the green wires to a fuse separately or do they go together?

The only strange thing was the yellow UCord was connected to a blue wire. I did a continuity test on it and, when connected to the RIGHT blue wire coming out on the inside, it tested "0". Why would a wire from the TV need to provide power to something inside the trailer? Perhaps it was for the pressure pump for the old water tank?

I do have some overhead cabinets but the only wiring inside was in the galley cabinet and it was 120VAC. I am not using any of the original 120 wiring inside and all that has been tied off and disconnected from everything. The only other overhead cabinet is over the bed next to the fridge cabinet. I've posted a "before" picture of the galley cabinet.

There were two other 12V on/off switches in the trailer - one by the bed for a light that is no more, and one in the bathroom (it is potty only - no shower or sink). I've posted a picture of a 120VAC lamp that was over the bed but the switch beside it didn't control it. That switch (not surprisingly) wasn't connected to anything.

A PO put a little light on the bedroom side of a little partition but didn't bother to hide wires or anything so I took it down. That is the light I think I'll put in the bathroom and attach one of the on/off switches to it.

The interior pictures I've posted are all "before" pictures so you can see what I've been dealing with. But I have already refinished all the cabinetry, replaced the rotten floor, and put down new vinyl tile flooring (not to mention replacing all the 120VAC wiring and getting the towing lights to working - with a LOT of help from my friends!). We are putting in all new tanks - fresh, black, and adding a gray tank. I'm also replacing the toilet with a ceramic one.

The trailer has the original Princess stove which is in excellent condition and Norcold fridge which has seen better days.

There is no outside light on it other than the running lights. Speaking of which, I put on my new running lights, replaced the taillights and hooked up the license plate light. Hooked up the charger to it for a test and EVERYTHING works perfectly!

It is just 18' tail to tongue and is absolutely adorable. Or at least one of these days it will be.

Life is good!
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:27 PM   #106
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What a beautiful trailer you have! It will be something to see when it is finished. I knew you could get the exterior lights to work! Congratulations!!!
From this point on it will be "A walk in the park" so to speak.
I pulled everything through the hole - as well as the stub of UCord and have posted a picture of what I found. There are two green trailer wires connected to the one UCord wire which was as expected. When I run all this through the fuse box (which I haven't received yet), do I put each of the green wires to a fuse separately or do they go together?
I don't think you have that many marker/tail lights. You could just put them together.
The only strange thing was the yellow UCord was connected to a blue wire. I did a continuity test on it and, when connected to the RIGHT blue wire coming out on the inside, it tested "0". Why would a wire from the TV need to provide power to something inside the trailer? Perhaps it was for the pressure pump for the old water tank? Apparently the PO used the battery in the TV instead of having one in the trailer. The mystery of the 2nd blue wire is now solved. The yellow wire in the UCord could have been connected through the Auxillary pin of the 7 pin connector thus providing 12V power to the trailer.
Try this; connect the two blue wires inside the trailer together with a wire nut.
Then connect the red lead of the charger to the yellow wire in the UCord. Black lead to ground; then test the light fixture. I'll bet it will work.
In the new work you install, you will obviously use a black (or red in your case) #10 wire for the +12V which will be connected to the battery as per Chris's drawing. You can provide power to the blue wire (cut the yellow off) by connecting it to your fuse block on the terminal Chris has labeled "lights" The small light you plan to install can also be connected there.
Did you find where the white wire in the UCord is connected to the frame or skin?
A reminder to clean the wiring really well before you connect them to the new fuse block. If you can locate where the white wire is connected to the frame, clean that point as well.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:07 PM   #107
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I forgot to tell you - I couldn't find any white wire other than the one that is in the black sheathing with the blue wire (white is bolted to tongue, blue goes to brakes). There is not a white wire in the wiring harness coming from the trailer.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:15 PM   #108
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Just to clarify a couple of points. Since both of the fuse blocks will be located inside the trailer.
The BLACK wire in the new UCord will be connected to the fuse block at the 30 amp location.
One of the wires on the break away switch will connect directly to the positive terminal on the battery.
The other wire on the break away switch will connect to the BLUE wire in the UCord and the brake BLUE wire in the black sheath.
The RED wire from the battery positive terminal will connect at three locations. The first is the 30 amp location opposite of where the UCord BLACK wire is connected. The second is to the power side of the "Ganged" fuse block. Third is obviously the battery positive terminal.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #109
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I forgot to tell you - I couldn't find any white wire other than the one that is in the black sheathing with the blue wire (white is bolted to tongue, blue goes to brakes). There is not a white wire in the wiring harness coming from the trailer.
That's OK; just run a wire from the negative terminal of the battery thru the single fuse holder (yet to be purchased) to the frame of the trailer. Then connect the WHITE wire from the new UCord to the frame as well. If you can connect both of these wires to the same place as the White wire to the brakes (the one in the black sheath) is connected it would be great.
Was the OLD UCord spliced to the wires that you pulled out into the trailer? In the photo you posted #76 there is a white wire in the TV UCord. What was it connected to in the trailer UCord?
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:11 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Just to clarify a couple of points. Since both of the fuse blocks will be located inside the trailer.
The BLACK wire in the new UCord will be connected to the fuse block at the 30 amp location.
One of the wires on the break away switch will connect directly to the positive terminal on the battery.
The other wire on the break away switch will connect to the BLUE wire in the UCord and the brake BLUE wire in the black sheath.
The RED wire from the battery positive terminal will connect at three locations. The first is the 30 amp location opposite of where the UCord BLACK wire is connected. The second is to the power side of the "Ganged" fuse block. Third is obviously the battery positive terminal.
Boy, does that sound confusing. I will have to wait until I get my fuse boxes and my in-line 30 amp fuse to be able to see how this all goes together. I'm not hooking up anything until I lay it all out, take pictures and get the A-OK.

There was a stub of white and a stub of blue wire that was part of the Ucord but there was no white wire in the wiring harness in the trailer walls. The old Ucord was spliced to the trailer harness wiring but nothing was hooked to the white and blue wires. Those are the two in the picture. Since I will be bringing the new Ucord inside the trailer, I will need to buy another one because the one that was attached (and didn't have a plug on it) won't be long enough. Chris said he got one with the plug already on it - I'll see if I can find that and have one less thing to have to worry about.

When I get all my fuse boxes and fuses together I'll be back with more questions.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:15 PM   #111
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Oops! Actually, there is a blue wire in the walls - a heavy one - and it is wired to the yellow Ucord wire. It is the one that is the same as the right side blue wire inside the trailer.

Too many wires!
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:21 AM   #112
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Not to worry.

Do you know all of the locations this blue wire inside the walls go to? It may come in handy for your 12V wiring. Don't worry. We will take it one step at a time and it will all become clear.
I am assuming the new dinette will be installed in the front of the trailer. Is this where your fresh water tank and pump will be?
A longer UCord will be good.
If you look at Chris's drawing while reading the info in post #108 above, I think it will make more sense. If you have a way to print a copy of the drawing it would be helpful.
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