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Old 12-09-2010, 09:09 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post

Match all the colors of the TV and Trailer UCords and connect them. If in fact one of the blacks is blue it should be used for the brakes. If you don't have a blue; perhaps the 2 blacks are different sizes. If that's the case use the larger of the two for the trailer (battery circuit) and the smaller of the two for the brakes.

Did you check to see if the black wire in the trailer UCord might be one of the black wires in this photo? They don't look like 10 guage in the photo. Can you see where else they go? The wire on the right looks like a solid wire to me. Must be part of an old AC circuit. Can you tell what it is for? Those wires are 10 gauge wires, not solid AC wires. I'm almost sure they went to the water pump but they were just curled up under the sink. The yellow and black wire on the left are attached to a little on/off switch. The two black wires on the right are connected to a light. I don't know how they were connected together but maybe that yellow wire sticking off to the right went to one of the black wires on the light so that when you turn on the switch for the water pump the light comes on? There is a bare solid ground wire but it wasn't connected to anything.
I'll be picking up my battery and the stuff I need to connect the umbilical cords tomorrow. Hopefully, when I get the UCords connected everything will work. Stay tuned!
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:24 PM   #86
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Did you check to see if one of the yellow wires above is the same as the yellow wire below? Using your meter in the 2K mode and the jumper wire in aforementioned posts.

In the top picture the fuse block (at least I think is for fuses) looks like some sort of power distribution system to different devices. It looks as though you would provide power (a positive 12 volts DC) to the upper left hand corner of it. With fuses in each of the holders for what ever they were used for. But there is no sign of any Black wire? Any where close? Hmmmm! Any holes that a wire could have been pushed into or anything?
Do you have any clue where the 3 yellow wires go from the fuse block?
It looks like someone may have added this after the trailer was built.

If I were to guess, in the bottom photo, I'd say the black wire next to the bare wire on the right were connected and the yellow wire with the wire nut was connected to the other black wire. If the black wire on the far left is the pump, then the yellow wire next to it is the power and it is connected to one of those terminals on the fuse block in the upper picture.

If by chance you can't find heat shrink tubing large enough to work. Pick up a roll of SCOTCH 33 or SCOTCH 99 Electrical tape. It is a very good quality tape and will work well for making the splice area of your UCord weather proof. If you decide to use tape let me know and I'll instruct you on the proper way to wrap it to get a water tight wrap.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:13 PM   #87
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Well, personally, I think the umbilical cord should be fused. But that might be a religious or political type discussion TG and I can have over a drink at a rally sometime... I think the extra safety is worthwhile. But, mounting the fuse panel could be a problem unless you want to cut open an access panel inside the trailer where the umbilical cord enters. If it were my trailer, I would make the access panel not only for the fuse block, but also to see where the black and white wires go. But, itís your trailer Lindy, so if you donít want to make the access hole, I understand and weíll work around it.

The black +12 volt wire does need to be fused at some point before it connects to the battery. That could be an inline fuse, installed where youíre going to splice the cord to the stubs.

Iíll try and finish the wiring diagram for you this afternoon or evening after work.

Chris
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #88
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Fusing th UCord

I agree with Chris: It is a personal choice. If you plan to install a fused UCord, I would do it now since the existing trailer UCord is sooo short. You could make the access panel on the inside, then run a totally new one piece UCord from the trailer fuse panel to the TV. No splicing of old to new. I am a firm believer in the fewer connections the fewer problems.
Hope your trip to town went well.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:59 PM   #89
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Hi Lindy,

Here's what I came up with for a wiring diagram. Hope it helps show where the battery and breakaway switch are in relation to the other wiring.

I included the fuse block for the umbilical cord. If you decide to not use that, at a minimum, youíll still need a 30 amp fuse between the battery and all the other wiring, with the possible exception of the breakaway switch. Iíve seen that wired both directly to the battery, bypassing the fuse, and wired in so the fuse is between it and the battery. To me, since itís an emergency last-ditch effort to stop the trailer, I would not fuse it.

I also noted that some people (including myself) install a fuse on the negative side of the battery. Thatís to provide protection in case the battery is connected backwards.

Let me know if you have any questions or need clarification, or more details on some part of the diagram.

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Old 12-10-2010, 08:25 PM   #90
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Nice drawing Chris. I'm sure there are a lot of people out there that could use it. Much better than any I've seen in AS documentation. I agree with fusing the negative side of the battery. Maybe we will meet someday at a rally.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:32 PM   #91
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Thanks TG!
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:25 PM   #92
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wiring diagram

Chris -
Thanks so much for the wiring diagram. I have to take time to study it to see if I can wire up the trailer like you suggest. It helps to have it drawn out so that I can actually see how it goes.

I picked up my battery, battery box, all sorts of wiring and connectors and even found the heat shrink wrap that was recommended to use. I also got my new running lights delivered today but still have to wait for my two fuse boxes.

I do have lots of questions - in no particular order. And I'm sure these won't be the last of the questions.

I would like to use the UCord fuse box (especially since I've already ordered it). I ordered one like in your picture that you posted. I don't have a problem cutting a hole in the trailer (is that blasphemous?) but I'm not sure exactly where I should cut it. The trailer cord comes out from under the thing that goes around the bottom front edge of the trailer (banana peel or something like that?) so it is actually sticking out of the belly pan. Should I cut into the belly pan to see where it is coming from or cut from the inside of the trailer above where it comes out? I can always rivet a patch over any hole that I make. And if I need to cut from the inside, it will be covered up with the dinette that we will be building.

With my battery sitting on the tongue between the propane tanks and the front of the trailer, will I need to cut another hole for the battery cables to come through? I bought 10 gauge black (oops! should this have been white?) and red wiring and connectors that will clamp on to the end of the wires and then will slip over the little bolts that come out of the battery.

The red wire (which will be on the positive bolt) will go into the fuse box but between the battery and the fuse box I need to tie in a black wire for the breakaway switch? Does that need to be 10 gauge as well? And do I just tie it in with the crimp on barrel connectors (and the shrink stuff)? Does the breakaway switch attach to the tongue too? According to your diagram the breakaway switch then ties into the Ucord fuse box on the trailer side of the Ucord fuse box (both the blue and black wires). Could the Ucord fuse box be placed in a waterproof box and sit on the tongue next to the battery? Or would it be better to be inside the trailer?

On the diagram the white wire from the TV cord has a dot and arrow just before the little fuse box. What does that mean?

Right now the blue wire from the TV cord is not connected to the blue wire from the trailer cord. It is connected to that black sheathed wire that was cut and has blue and white in it. (that is the only wire that is connected in the TV cord) Should I just ignore the blue cord from the trailer and hook the black sheathed wire back together and run it through the 1/2" pvc to protect it? That wire is the one that is already attached to the brakes (who knows if they work).

Working my way on down the diagram. How do I install a 30 amp fuse between the negative battery post and where it connects to the frame/ground bus? Do I need another fuse box for just that one fuse? I'm sure the auto supply store would have something like that since that's where I got everything else.

You show the negative wire from the battery tying in to the white wire but I have yet to find a white wire other than the little stub sticking out from the trailer Ucord. Can I just connect the negative black 10 gauge (which should have been white) to the frame itself? Or would that be tied into the black sheathed blue/white wire somehow since you show it going on back to the brakes?

I sure hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew! This is just the OUTSIDE wiring! Heaven help me when I start wiring up the inside. Or better yet, Forum help me...

I'll sleep on it tonight and take your diagram down the hill with me tomorrow when I go work on the trailer. I'm sure there will be more questions. I really can't do much until I get the fuse boxes so that will give me a few more days to mull it over and think up more questions.

Again, thank you SO much!

Lindy
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:20 AM   #93
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solar panel

I forgot to add that I bought a small plug & play solar panel to keep the battery charged.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:45 AM   #94
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With my battery sitting on the tongue between the propane tanks and the front of the trailer, will I need to cut another hole for the battery cables to come through? I bought 10 gauge black (oops! should this have been white?) That's OK it's your trailer and you know what it's for. and red wiring and connectors that will clamp on to the end of the wires and then will slip over the little bolts that come out of the battery.

The red wire (which will be on the positive bolt) will go into the fuse box but between the battery and the fuse box I need to tie in a black wire for the breakaway switch? Does that need to be 10 gauge as well? You can use 16 guage for the breakaway switch. I would not fuse the wire going to the breakaway switch. You can attach it at the battery along with the black that goes to the fuse blocks. And do I just tie it in with the crimp on barrel connectors (and the shrink stuff)? If you tie it at the battery you can just use a "ring" connector on the end of the wire. Does the breakaway switch attach to the tongue too? Yes, attach it to the inside of the tongue; if it had one previously there may already be holes for it. Make sure the cable coming off of the switch is long enough to be attached to the TV with enough slack so you won't pull the pin while turning. According to your diagram the breakaway switch then ties into the Ucord fuse box on the trailer side of the Ucord fuse box (both the blue and black wires).In Chris's drawing it is shown as not fused, that's the way I would do it. Could the Ucord fuse box be placed in a waterproof box and sit on the tongue next to the battery? Or would it be better to be inside the trailer? That's a matter of personal choice; BUT the old UCord won't be long enough to reach. I would locate it inside. Then pull the old UCord out and back into the trailer and connect it. Put the new UCord for the TV through the hole that you pulled the old one out of. If I had to guess, I'd say the old UCord is clamped to the frame or one of the outriggers. If it's not too much trouble, maybe you could remove the banana wrap to see where it goes. Or cut a hole or in the flooring or the wall inside to enable you to locate the old UCord.

On the diagram the white wire from the TV cord has a dot and arrow just before the little fuse box. What does that mean? It means it's connected to the frame of the trailer.

Right now the blue wire from the TV cord is not connected to the blue wire from the trailer cord. It is connected to that black sheathed wire that was cut and has blue and white in it. (that is the only wire that is connected in the TV cord) Should I just ignore the blue cord from the trailer and hook the black sheathed wire back together and run it through the 1/2" pvc to protect it? That wire is the one that is already attached to the brakes (who knows if they work). It is wired correctly for the TV brakes but you will have to tie the breakaway switch into it as well. One wire from the break away switch goes to the positive side of the battery. The other wire from the breakaway switch should be attached to the blue wire. You could take off the barrel lug that is there now and attach one of the wires from the breakaway switch. There would then be three wires at this junction.

Working my way on down the diagram. How do I install a 30 amp fuse between the negative battery post and where it connects to the frame/ground bus? Do I need another fuse box for just that one fuse? I'm sure the auto supply store would have something like that since that's where I got everything else. They make fuse holders that mount to a surface or you could just used an "inline" fuse holder. Either way just run a #10 wire from one end of the fuse holder to the battery negative terminal. From the other end of the fuse holder run a wire to the frame. Be sure to get a fuse holder that is rated for 30 amps.

You show the negative wire from the battery tying in to the white wire but I have yet to find a white wire other than the little stub sticking out from the trailer Ucord. Can I just connect the negative black 10 gauge (which should have been white) to the frame itself? Yes. Or would that be tied into the black sheathed blue/white wire somehow since you show it going on back to the brakes? The white wire to the brakes is already tied to the frame as I recall, so that's OK. To be clear there will be a wire from the fuse holder to the frame and another wire (existing) for the brakes.
Don't worry about being in over your head. You were able to troubleshoot the existing wiring in the trailer with a GREAT amount of success. Just take one thing at a time; ask questions if needed ahead of time. I will be happy to help and I'm sure Chris will to.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:06 AM   #95
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I think TG has answered almost all of your questions. Just to confirm a couple of things:

The arrow looking thingy on my diagram is the electrical symbol for ground. That shows that the white ground wire is connected to the frame. If you can, use the same bolt location that currently attaches the white wire to the frame, and just add any additional white (or in your case, black) ground wires to that bolt. Be sure to clean the frame and the existing ring connector off and use new ring connectors on the new ground wires to ensure good electrical contact.

I'm with TG in placing the ucord fuse block inside the trailer, and pulling the ucord in further to make those connections. It will be a lot easier than trying to put connectors on those stubs sticking out of the belly pan. The only concern I have is to make sure the ucord is still long enough to reach the TV without being unplugged when making a tight turn. If it's too short, then I would buy a new ucord rather than adding splices to the existing one to lengthen it.

On the battery wiring to go inside, that will kinda depend on if youíre going to use the fuse block inside or not.

If you decide not to use the fuse block inside, then you can connect the battery ground wire, the brake white wire, the ucord white wire going to the TV, and the ucord white wire stub coming out of the trailer all to the frame bolt on the tongue, then you already have the ground wire going inside the trailer. And you can do the same thing with the +12 volt wire: use the positive battery post as your junction point. On it you would have the +12 volt wire from the ucord TV (which needs to be fused), the wire going to the breakaway switch (not fused), and wire going into the trailer (that will be fused at the new ganged fuse block). In order to use the black stub wire, you need to know where the other end is (which brings us back to cutting an access panel). You could bypass that wire and just run a new +12 volt wire into the trailer. That would require a new hole through the skin and inside wall, or through the belly pan and floor, depending on which way you want to go. A rubber grommet and vulkum will seal the holes ok.

If you decide to use the fuse block inside like I did, then the ucord from the TV will be pulled inside, and you will need to run the following wires back outside: +12 volt wire to the positive post on the battery, blue wire to the brake line, and white wire to the neg post on the battery or the frame bolt (either one will be fine). If they can all fit through the existing hole, great! If not, then youíll need to drill a new hole. Again, a rubber grommet and vulkum will seal the hole and protect the wiring.

If you want, once you decide if you're going to use the fuse block, and where it will be located (inside or outside), let me know, and I'll do a more detailed drawing for you, showing where the wires are and if they are connected inside the trailer or outside.

Like TG said, take it one step at a time, and you'll be fine. Ask questions and we'll answer. The inside 12 volt wiring will be a piece of cake compared to the ucord wiring. Promise!

Chris
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Old 12-11-2010, 12:43 PM   #96
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Lindy,
Were you able to identify any of the yellow wires? Refer to my post #86.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:49 PM   #97
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Dinette

You mentioned earlier that you are installing a dinette in the future. I know this is off the subject. But here is a before and after of the one I built and installed. It had a gaucho up front originally.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:56 PM   #98
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yellow wires

The yellow wire from the on/off switch doesn't go anywhere. It is a long wire though and could possibly have gone to the water pump which was in the front of the trailer. The yellow wires from the antique fuse box are no more. I took it down since those yellow wires just went to the old water pump and some other kind of pump looking thing. Somebody said it was a pressure pump to keep the old torpedo galvanized water tank pressurized. Which doesn't make sense if it had a water pump. I can send you a picture of both if you need it.

I don't know what I would attach a jumper to in order to see what it does. But what I would like it to do is attach it to my new water pump and would like the little red light to come on when it is turned on. Think we can do that when I get to the inside of the trailer 12VDC wiring?

I hope others in my same predicament are following this thread. The information you guys have given me had been right on target - and works!
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