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Old 07-17-2011, 11:04 AM   #253
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Since I was unable to find either a fuse block or a fuse box like I have in the Traveler, I will have to order them from the place I did before. Is the fuse block I have pictured ok to use? Could I then put all four 30 amp fuses in the one box and run the wires from the converter then to the other connections or do I need to separate those fuses and have two blocks? They're cheap enough ($8.72) so I can get two if I need to.
Its ok, but I would order one like you used in the Traveler. Then you have one lug that will feed 12 VDC to the 6 fuses. If you use the one in the picture, then you will need to somehow join all the terminals on one side of the fuse block to the 12 VDC supply wire, which while doable, is not as easy as using the other style ganged fuse block.

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I also took a photo of the fuse box that I have in the Traveler (attached PDF) and put in what I think I need to do for the new trailer. I'm assuming all the white wires that are in the large wire nut would go to where the white wires are in the photo?
Yup!

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Are the black wires going to the battery? If not, what do I put there?
Not sure exactly what you're asking here. If you look at TG's drawing, I think you could actually eliminate the 20 amp fuse he shows going from the AGU 30 amp fuse to the battery. Then you could remove the entire old fuse panel and distribution block and replace it all with new.

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Also, since I will be using the existing wiring (black and white solid copper) for the lights, do I solder the connectors to them or solder a stranded wire to them, cover it with shrink stuff, then squish the connector to the stranded wire?
Just solder the new stranded wire to the old solid wire. No need to add a second connector into the line.

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With 3 spaces for the lights that leaves just enough spaces for the propane detector, water pump and fridge. Or, if I use the existing wiring for the water pump and the wire in the front of the trailer for the fridge, do I still need to have a space for those in the box? Those wires are the ones that connect in the closet. The lights are on a different circuit (I think)?
The lights could all run off one 15 amp fuse. No need to split them.

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I will have to wait about a week for the fuse boxes to come in so I think I will start on the 120VAC wiring until it gets here. At least whenever I'm not entertaining a 15-year old grandson... Teenage boys are just downright silly!
A 15 year old grandson should be totally self sufficient!!! Ok, I live in a dream world...
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:05 AM   #254
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It comes in 2 position ($15.63) and 4 position ($25.29) fuse blocks.

This is where I'm looking:
Fuse Blocks and Fuse Panels
You need qty of 2 of the 2-position model.

Chris
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:47 PM   #255
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AS I recall in one of your earlier posts you said the red and white wires at the top of the old fuse block go to the battery. If they are still useable and are #10 wire, you could eliminate the 20 amp fuse.
You will need 2 of the 2 gang AGU fuse holders as Chris pointed out.
You also need to identify all of the existing wiring. I doubt that the 3 smaller black wires are all for lights. My guess is tha one is for lights; one is for the pump; and one is for the furnace.
Go to the far end of all of the cloth coated wires and check for voltage. When you find one that has voltage then disconnect one of the small black wires, then another until you find the one where the voltage goes to zero. Do this on all the DC wires and make notes of what you find.
AS I pointed out on the drawing; you need to run #6 wire to both the AGU fuse blocks. DO NOT CONNECT the fuse blocks together; the yellow wires indicate the negative side and the red wires indicate the positive side of the circuit.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:37 PM   #256
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A 15 year old grandson should be totally self sufficient!!! Ok, I live in a dream world...
Yeah, right. Get back with me in 15 years when that new grandbaby is a bit older and let me know about self-sufficiency!

Just got back from a camping/fishing trip with the kid in the little Traveler. The kid slept in a tent outside. But the Traveler did well - even at 10,000 feet!
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:06 PM   #257
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New discoveries

I undid all of the black wires going into the old box and found this:

Top wire: Front overhead lights and 12V wire in front cabinet (that I plan to use for the fridge)

Middle wire: Back overhead lights

Bottom wire: Water pump and switch, wires in closet and furnace wires

The current wires (red/white) that were for the old converter look the same size as the #6 wire that I bought. There are 7 copper strands in the old wiring and a bunch of smaller strands in the new stuff. The overall thickness of the wires look to be the same. My plan is to put in the new #6 wiring since I already bought it, put the converter in the closet in the bathroom (the little metal shelf shown in a previous post), install the battery in the space where the old water heater used to be under the converter (there will be about 3' of wiring between the two) then follow TG Twinkie's wiring schematic.

Now for the questions:

1. Looking at the fuse holder (see photos), there are 3 spaces for wires to come in at the big end and two spaces for wires to go out at the other end. It looks like I should put the #6 wiring from the converter into the big hole on the big end and then run the smaller wires out the other end but in the diagram there needs to be 3 wires coming out (battery, TV and fuse block). Can I put 2 wires in one hole? Did I buy the wrong thing?

2. For the negative side, do I just run the #6 ground wire from the fuse holder to a screw in the trailer frame to ground it?

3. The spaces for the fuses are really large. Do I use 30 amp glass fuses for it? Two in each one?

4. Do I still need the 20 amp in-line fuse from the fuse holder to the house battery? Or is that 20 amp the ones that are already in the old holders?

5. The only solder I have is what I use to do stained glass work (60% tin, 40% lead). Will that work to solder the solid copper to the stranded? I use flux with the solder when I do stained glass - do I need to use that on the wires as well? With stained glass I think it makes the solder stick better. Or will wire nuts work just as well? They would be a lot easier.

I've got a couple of days I can work on the wiring before I have to be gone for another week with grandkids. After that I think I'm going to be grand-childless for the rest of the summer! YEA! They're nice when you have them but its even nicer when you take them back to their mama!
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:39 PM   #258
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Answers:
Question 1; Yes you can use any or all of the 3 holes on the end of the fuse holder, they are all connected together on that end of the fuse holder. As long as the wire will go in without removing any strands. Yes you can put 2 wires in one hole on the load side of the fuse; keep in mind that each of the 2 wires has to be at least #10 to carry the 30 amp load. This is true for both the positive and negative fuse holders. You should not have any problem putting 2 #10 wires into the load side of one fuse.
Question 2; There are 2 #6 wires; one to the converter and one to the skin or frame. It would be best if you could hit one of the ribs and use at least a #10 sheet metal screw.
Question 3; Yes they are glass fuses. Each fuse holder has 2 positions for fuses, you will need the right fuse, they are much larger in size than what you have on the old fuse panel.
Question 4: If the wires going to the battery are at least#10 you can eliminate the 20 amp fuse all together.
Question 5; I believe the solder used in stained glass work is "Acid" core which should not be used on electrical connections. You need "Rosin" core solder. I don't see any problem with using wire nuts; just make a good tight connection.

Glad to see you ID'd the three black wires. I will assume you know where the red and dirty black wires go as well. Now you can assign the lighting circuits to fuses that are separate from the pump and furnace circuits when you install your new fuse panel.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:40 PM   #259
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couple more questions

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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post

I will assume you know where the red and dirty black wires go as well. Now you can assign the lighting circuits to fuses that are separate from the pump and furnace circuits when you install your new fuse panel.
How do I test to see what the red and dirty black wires are? I assumed the red wire was the other end of what I was connecting to the converter because it is the same size wire and there is a same size white wire in the big wire nut. Would the dirty black be to the TV? I'm not sure how I know what wires are for the TV wiring. Any suggestions on how I figure it out?

Can I use the #6 wire to connect to the battery and do away with the current battery cables or do I need to get something bigger?

Thanks for your help! Wish you would decide to come to Colorado for about a week.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #260
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You can test the red and the dirty black wires the same way you tested the 3 small black wires. For example: The red wire probably goes to the old converter location along with one of the large white wires in the wire nut. As before, you checked for voltage at the far end of the wires. If you have your new converter temporarily wired in where the old converter was, with the new converter powered up, go to the old fuse panel, with your meter set to DC, check for the presence of voltage by putting the black lead of the meter on the white wires in the wire nut, just stick something like a small screw driver or paper clip in the wire nut to make contact with the bare wires. Once you are certain you've made contact then put the red lead of the meter on the red wire that is connected to the old distribution panel (where the 3 black wires are). It would be best if you disconnected the red wire from the distribution panel to test it, this way you eliminate any back feeding. Now I'm refering to the red wire on the bottom of the metal buss. If you get a 12+ volt reading, then go to the converter and disconnect the red wire and see if the reading goes away. If it does it's the same wire.
Now put the red and dirty black wires back on the distribution panel buss as it was originally. Then reconnect the red wire to the converter.
As for the dirty black wire. First put a jumper between the skin of the trailer and the negative side of the converter. A temporary jumper will work. Then go to the UCord. With your meter set to DC connect the black lead of the meter to a clean spot on the trailer frame. Clip the red lead of the meter to a small screwdriver then stick the screwdriver into the pins of the UCord connector and check for voltage. If the dirty black wire is in fact the TV charge line, one of the pins on the connector should read 12+ volts. If you find a pin that has 12 volts (leave the meter connected) then got to the distribution panel and remove the dirty black wire from the buss. If the 12 volts goes away the dirty black wire is the TV positive lead.
If either or both of these tests fail we will have to take another approach at IDing these wires.
As long as you can get the #6 wire for the battery into the fuse holder on the load side you can use it.
You can use #10 wire to feed the new fuse block and then connect the TV wires into the same connection instead of using the one for the battery. I don't think you will be able to get a #6 wire and a #10 wire in the same hole on the fuse block. Remember! What ever you do one the positive side you must duplicate on the negative side.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:18 PM   #261
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New findings and new breaker box

I did what you said and found that the red wire coming out at the bottom of the old distribution box is, indeed, the wire that connects to the old converter - so I can just leave it be (since I'm putting in new wires) or pull it out, right?

And, the dirty black wire belongs to the TV wiring. So! I think I have everything identified as far as 12VDC goes. I just realized today after I took out the old 120VAC breaker box that I don't know which wire belongs to the a/c. There are three cloth covered wires that come out of the wall and went into the breaker box and one of them goes to the a/c (I was going to try to utilize that one because I can't figure out where the wiring is that is in the a/c to tie in new wiring). But I failed to tag it before I tore it all out so now what do I do? Is there any way I can trace the wire without electrocuting myself and see if it goes to the a/c short of hooking each wire up individually to the new breaker and see if the a/c works?

Speaking of breaker box, I have posted a picture of my new one which is a little bit different than the Traveler's. I will put the black wires in the breakers, the white wires in the little screw things on the left, install a ground kit (which I have) and run all the bare copper ground wires to it, right?

Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.

I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?

Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.

Thanks!

Lindy
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:56 PM   #262
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Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.
NO. The big connector on the left is for the neutral (white wire) on the shore power cable. The red wire should be between the 2 connectors on the right. The black wire in the shore power cable will connect to the 30 amp breaker.

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I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?
Just wire the existing cables (cloth covered) one into each breaker (black wire) connect the white wires to the neutral buss and the ground wires to the ground buss.
Once you have shore power; just turn on the breakers one at a time to determine which one is for the A/C.

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Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.
It's your choice, if you have room for another breaker I would put it in. That way you can shut the converter off and only the bath outlet will be affected.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:00 PM   #263
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Is there any way I can trace the wire without electrocuting myself and see if it goes to the a/c short of hooking each wire up individually to the new breaker and see if the a/c works?

Speaking of breaker box, I have posted a picture of my new one which is a little bit different than the Traveler's. I will put the black wires in the breakers, the white wires in the little screw things on the left, install a ground kit (which I have) and run all the bare copper ground wires to it, right?

Do I have the big red wire put in correctly to do whatever connecting it is supposed to do or should both ends be in the two large screws next to the breakers? Right now one end is in the large screw on the left under the where the white wires go and the other is in the large screw on the right next to the breakers.

I have one 30 amp and three 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the a/c (assuming I can figure out which wire to use), one 20 amp for the 4 outlets on the streetside of the trailer and one 20 amp for the fridge plug and 3 other outlets. Does that sound about right?

Oops! I forgot I need to put in two more outlets - one for the converter and one in the bathroom. Can I put them on the line with the 4 streetside outlets or should I get another 20 amp breaker? I have space in the box for more.
Nope. The red wire needs to go in between the two big screws next to the black breakers. The way you have it now, you've connected the hot black wire of the 110 vac to the white neutral - a direct short! Not good at all.

like on your other trailer, connect the shore power black wire to the 30 amp breaker. One 20 amp breaker for the a/c. If you need to, connect the black wires from the 110 vac circuits to the breakers one at a time until you find the one that goes to the a/c.

I would add another breaker for the converter and bath. That's probably the easiest way to add the extra outlets - just run new wires for them from the breaker box. If you can tie into one of the existing circuits, then go ahead and do so for the bath outlet. But I think the converter should be on its own circuit if you can do that. Personal opinion.

Chris
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:13 PM   #264
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I did what you said and found that the red wire coming out at the bottom of the old distribution box is, indeed, the wire that connects to the old converter - so I can just leave it be (since I'm putting in new wires) or pull it out, right?


If the wire is #10 you can use it to provide the +12 volts to your new fused distribution block from the new converter via the 30 amp AGU fuse block. Same goes for the white wire that is the mate to the red one. Connect it to the 30 amp AGU fuse block and the other end to the ground/common buss on the new fused distribution block.

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I am assuming you will mount the 2 30 amp AGU fuse blocks close to the converter and the new fused distribution block will be located near the old fuse block.
Don't leave the old red wire connected to the converter it must connect to the 30 amp fuse; same goes for the white. Look carefully at the drawing and I think you will see what I mean.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:04 PM   #265
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Hi Lindy,

In case you missed this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ml#post1028513

Chris
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:01 AM   #266
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Thanks!

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Hi Lindy,

In case you missed this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ml#post1028513

Chris
I've been out of town and haven't been on the forums lately so I did miss the pictures of the crib. Thanks for sending me the link.

I hope to get the breaker box, battery, and fuses in today. I won't plug it in though until I get an "A-OK". Stay tuned for pictures!

Enjoy that baby! She'll be walking and chattering before you know it...P
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