Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-06-2011, 09:25 PM   #211
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,139
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
I would only replace the wiring that looks damaged. I doubt if any of the wiring inside the skin would be damaged unless the trailer was in a wreck and has been repaired.
A standard 20 amp breaker will work for the AC.
I would combine breakers 3,4 & 5
I would combine the micro wave with the converter.
A 1000 watt microwave will draw about 9 amps.
Your converter will draw about 5 amps if it is fully loaded to the 45 amp capacity. I don't think that will be the case.

If you are planning on installing a 3 way fridge, you will need 12 volts.

A 20 amp fuse would require # 12 wire.

In the procedure I outlined the fuses are not required since you will be down stream (so to speak). You would connect the red lead of the charger to the fuse clip just above where the wire is connected. The fuse clip is just a convenient way to connect the big clip on the charger to the wire.
When you get power to the overhead light circuit, don't forget that each light has it's own switch and they may need to be turned on. And of course a good bulb and socket as well as a good connection to ground/common.
You should be able to locate the wire that feeds the lights there may be more than one circuit for lights. You should also be able to find the wire that feeds the water pump, don't forget it has a switch as well.
I have attached a drawing that I think is for '64 and '65 AS
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Airstream%20manual%2050.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	333.4 KB
ID:	134138  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Airstream '64-'65 wiring.pdf (64.3 KB, 23 views)
__________________

__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2011, 11:10 PM   #212
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I would only replace the wiring that looks damaged. I doubt if any of the wiring inside the skin would be damaged unless the trailer was in a wreck and has been repaired.
A standard 20 amp breaker will work for the AC.
I would combine breakers 3,4 & 5
I would combine the micro wave with the converter.
A 1000 watt microwave will draw about 9 amps.
Your converter will draw about 5 amps if it is fully loaded to the 45 amp capacity. I don't think that will be the case.

If you are planning on installing a 3 way fridge, you will need 12 volts.

A 20 amp fuse would require # 12 wire.

In the procedure I outlined the fuses are not required since you will be down stream (so to speak). You would connect the red lead of the charger to the fuse clip just above where the wire is connected. The fuse clip is just a convenient way to connect the big clip on the charger to the wire.
When you get power to the overhead light circuit, don't forget that each light has it's own switch and they may need to be turned on. And of course a good bulb and socket as well as a good connection to ground/common.
You should be able to locate the wire that feeds the lights there may be more than one circuit for lights. You should also be able to find the wire that feeds the water pump, don't forget it has a switch as well.
I have attached a drawing that I think is for '64 and '65 AS
Thanks - I will go to plan B - which I haven't made yet but I think I can simplify things a bunch. The trailer has not been in a wreck, the insulation that I've seen is still soft and I haven't seen any signs of critters chewing on anything anywhere.

I've got to go to the "big city" (Salida) tomorrow so won't get to work on the trailer at all. At least I can get a new breaker box and however many breakers I decide to go with. Stay tuned...

Could you send me the thumbnails in a different format or maybe through email? I couldn't blow them up enough to be able to see any of the writing.
__________________

__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2011, 04:58 PM   #213
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
furnace

Here are pictures of the furnace - which resides in the cabinet under the sink. I thought that was kind of weird. There are vents in the door but they are probably just 4" x 6". And I'm pretty sure the furnace is electric - not 12VDC. At least there is a plug there for it to plug into.

There are also a couple of loose wires that I don't know where they belong.

Should I try to save this thing or get a new one? The furnace is vented at the back to the outside.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace loose wires.JPG
Views:	74
Size:	163.8 KB
ID:	134290   Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace blower.JPG
Views:	83
Size:	177.8 KB
ID:	134291  

Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace 2.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	177.7 KB
ID:	134292   Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace4.JPG
Views:	93
Size:	155.6 KB
ID:	134293  

__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 08:44 AM   #214
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,139
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Can you find the manufacturers label. It should provide the model number. I can't tell if it's a Suburban or what. There may also be a label showing the power requirements.
I can see that the gas line has been disconnected. But can't read enough of the printed info on the fan housing. It looks more like operating and maintenance instructions.
The fan motor looks like it has brushes which means it is "OLD". Can you read the label on the motor? It may be a "Universal" motor and only run on 120 volts AC or DC; not 12 volts.
Most of the corded hand tools like skill saws, drill motors and reciprocating saws have "Universal" motors which have brushes.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 01:04 PM   #215
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Here's what I found

Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Can you find the manufacturers label. It should provide the model number. I can't tell if it's a Suburban or what. There may also be a label showing the power requirements.
I can see that the gas line has been disconnected. But can't read enough of the printed info on the fan housing. It looks more like operating and maintenance instructions.
The fan motor looks like it has brushes which means it is "OLD". Can you read the label on the motor? It may be a "Universal" motor and only run on 120 volts AC or DC; not 12 volts.
Most of the corded hand tools like skill saws, drill motors and reciprocating saws have "Universal" motors which have brushes.
On the squirrel cage housing:

International Oil Burner Company
St. Louis, MO
Model DC 1525
Input 25,000 BTU/hr
Output 20,000 BTU/hr
Elec. Rating - D.C. 12 V 9 amps

On the motor itself:

Universal Elec. Co
No. 20 Auto
1550 8 (or 6 or S?) - 093

I discovered a little door at the back and I'm not sure what is behind it. It looks sort of like the lever to turn on the propane but it is way in the back behind the blower thing and would be really hard to get to.

The wiring coming into the furnace look like AC wiring but who knows???? The way this thing is wired up it is hard to tell AC from DC. BTW, I haven't tested the 12V with the battery charger yet - We have to pull it out of the garage so I can get to the back end to test it.

If I take this furnace out would I need to put another one in the same space since the vent (big and ugly on the outside) is there?

I've posted more pics -
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace little door.JPG
Views:	64
Size:	161.4 KB
ID:	134336   Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace motor.JPG
Views:	65
Size:	169.4 KB
ID:	134337  

Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace3.JPG
Views:	67
Size:	155.8 KB
ID:	134338   Click image for larger version

Name:	furnace vent.JPG
Views:	93
Size:	154.2 KB
ID:	134339  

__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 05:37 PM   #216
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,139
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
It's obviously 12 volt DC from the info you posted.
I see an "ON/OFF switch, which may power the blower as well as the controls for the furnace.
I would bet it is the original furnace and may work just fine. In the second pic of the motor you will see a little brass funnel like device on the top of the motor; it is for lubricating the motor bearing. This thing is "Original"
Can you find any kind of electrical drawing on the cover or any where?

My guess would be that a "sail switch" is behind the little door. It makes sure there is air flowing (the blower is running) which allows the main burner to light.
Also it looks like one of the rubber pads and the bolt is missing from the motor mount. Easy fix.
Is there a thermostat anywhere in the trailer?
There should also be a couple of wires going to a high temp cut off switch (to shut the burner down if things get too hot) in the plenum as well as a switch to keep the blower running long enough to cool things down after the thermostat is satisfied and the burner is shut off in the normal mode.
Do you have access to the burner and plenum to check to see if things are rusted out or cracked? Also to check for any evidence of mud daubers and the like in the burner area.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 06:27 PM   #217
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Uh...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Can you find any kind of electrical drawing on the cover or any where?

Is there a thermostat anywhere in the trailer?

Do you have access to the burner and plenum to check to see if things are rusted out or cracked? Also to check for any evidence of mud daubers and the like in the burner area.

What's a plenum?


I think there is a drawing on the bottom of the blower- I'll have to lay on the floor and try to get my head under the thing. I'll do that tomorrow and see if I can see it.

I have not seen any thermostat anywhere in the trailer other than the new one the PO left still in the box.

Is the burner on the outside in that big vent thing? I can probably take that off and look in there.
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #218
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Lindy discard that furnace as soon as possible. Inland Andy has written here on the forums how dangerous those furnaces are. They are very prone to explosion.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 08:47 PM   #219
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Whoa!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Lindy discard that furnace as soon as possible. Inland Andy has written here on the forums how dangerous those furnaces are. They are very prone to explosion.
Really? It's going to go to the dump as soon as I can figure out how to take the silly thing out!

THANKS!!!

Lindy
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 09:40 PM   #220
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,139
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Sounds like good advice from wasagachris.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 10:00 PM   #221
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
I found this post by Andy.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...tml#post603080
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 10:10 PM   #222
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
In addition to the one you found, there was another thread from Andy about the furnace as well. Thanks so much for letting me know about this. In this case, ignorance would not have been bliss!

I wonder how many other International Oil Burner furnaces are out there waiting to explode? That's scary!

Lindy
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2011, 01:41 PM   #223
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Gone!

The heater is history!!!

Now, on to the wiring...
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 02:05 PM   #224
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
12V fuse box

I hooked the battery charger up with the negative to the skin of the trailer and the + to each of the 3 connectors in the fuse box (individually). For all three (black wires), the overhead lights came on throughout the trailer.

I then put two 20 amp glass fuses in the fuse holders and connected the charger to the - and + battery cables and got nothing. I used the 20 amp fuses because that was what I had on hand. Do I need to use larger fuses for it to work?

I've attached a PDF of the way the fuse box is wired. If I can leave well enough alone, I'd like to use it as is (obviously if I can get the battery cables to make everything work).

Three questions:

1. Can I make do with the fuse box or should I get another and just wire it up the same? If I can use the existing wires that are inside the walls of the trailer, I'd like to do that.

2. I want to run two more 12VDC lines - one for the fridge (in case we have to get a new one) and one for a light over the bed. Do I need a new spot on the fuse box or can these two wires be connected to what exists? If so, where would I put them?

3. On the opposite side of the trailer from the fuse box, where the old converter used to be, there are two wires (red and white) coming out of the trailer wall that were connected to the old converter. Can I connect those to the new converter and expect it to work since it worked before or should I just run two new lines from the converter directly over to the fuse box?

And now the fun begins...!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fuse box.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	218.9 KB
ID:	134506  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12V fuse box.pdf (213.0 KB, 31 views)
__________________

__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
12v


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
12v Electrical Issues Clyde-2 Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 5 10-25-2009 09:12 AM
Univolt or 12v System Gone Wrong AustinAir Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 4 04-10-2009 12:10 AM
63 Overlander 12V system rvnpikes Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 10-09-2008 10:53 AM
12V Electrical Questions Airstream 65 Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 4 06-07-2007 04:24 PM
12V System....Sudden Death! Help, please Alan and Mardel Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 6 12-13-2003 12:04 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.