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Old 12-20-2010, 06:46 PM   #155
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Converter

Have you bought a converter yet? If not there is a 45 amp unit on EBay for a really good price. It's an Inteli-Power PD9245C for $129.59 including shipping. I just bought one for the TWINKIE. It's suppose to be one of the latest and greatest. For that price, I just had to try it out. 45amps would be more than you will ever need. OH! and it's new not used.
I've been wanting to replace the old Univolt for some time now. So another project is in the making.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:46 PM   #156
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the #10 that is on the frame bolt. Is this wire connected to the frame outside? Is the other end just hanging right now? If so; it goes to the battery.
Thanks - that makes sense. I will run the 30Amp wire to the frame and the existing #10 that is already on the frame bolt will be the only wire to go to the battery.

I got my battery box in today so tomorrow I'll hook it all up. Yikes! That means I'm almost through with wiring!

What next? check the brakes?

We're putting formica on the counter top tomorrow as well (assuming the weather cooperates) - that will be another first! I watched a youtube video on how to do it so I think I'm ready! I always figure if I don't know I can't do it then I can. Makes sense to me!

This whole process has been so much fun!
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:00 AM   #157
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Lindy: When you do the formica; do it in a warm well ventilated place with no open flame or ignition source. Contact cement is very volatile. It can make you higher than a kite as well. The photos you saw of the galley and dinette were of the first time I've ever worked with formica.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:31 AM   #158
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One other formica tip - be sure it's in the right position before you let the two surfaces touch each other! Contact cement is not very forgiving. Once they make semi-good contact, they're not coming apart without breaking the formica. Lots of dowels or scraps of wood will keep the two surfaces apart while you position the formica. Then, remove the spacers, starting in the middle, and work your way out to the edges.

If you're going to formica the edges, do them first. Trim them flush with the top, and then do the top surface.

Do you have an edge trimming bit and a router?

You are going to be one very handy lady once you have this trailer done!

Chris
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:47 AM   #159
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Lindy: When you do the formica; do it in a warm well ventilated place with no open flame or ignition source. Contact cement is very volatile. It can make you higher than a kite as well. The photos you saw of the galley and dinette were of the first time I've ever worked with formica.
If that was your first time doing formica - and it turned out so beautiful - then that is certainly encouraging!

The hard part will be the WARM place with no ignition source. The man-cave is heated with a wood stove.

We might have to wait a while on this project.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:50 AM   #160
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One other formica tip - be sure it's in the right position before you let the two surfaces touch each other! Contact cement is not very forgiving. Once they make semi-good contact, they're not coming apart without breaking the formica. Lots of dowels or scraps of wood will keep the two surfaces apart while you position the formica. Then, remove the spacers, starting in the middle, and work your way out to the edges. I bought some dowels to help with positioning it. Good idea to start in the middle and work my way out. Fortunately, the countertop is just a little over 4' long. I think I have enough formica to do a practice piece first.

If you're going to formica the edges, do them first. Trim them flush with the top, and then do the top surface.

Do you have an edge trimming bit and a router? I do but I've never used it before.

You are going to be one very handy lady once you have this trailer done!

Chris
I have learned a LOT on this project. And am keeping my eyes open for another AS to start on when this one gets finished.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:19 AM   #161
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When you put the contact cement on the surfaces it "outgases" (dries)very rapidly. I also have a wood burning stove in my shop where I did the work. I just kept the door open to let fresh air in while the cement was drying. Then closed the door and warmed up the place before putting the formica on the counter top. My shop is about 400 square feet, so it didn't take long to warm it up. If I remember right is takes about 24 hours for the stuff to cure completely. So if you can keep it warm for that period you'll be OK. Good Luck!
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:30 PM   #162
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TV hook-up day

IT WORKED!!!

Blinkers, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, license plate light. YEA!

The formica is down but it isn't my favorite thing to mess with. One boo-boo but it was fixable...
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:36 PM   #163
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If I remember right is takes about 24 hours for the stuff to cure completely. So if you can keep it warm for that period you'll be OK. Good Luck!
Thanks - good to know. I didn't know it took 24 hours to cure so I'll just bring it into the house since I can't keep the shop warm all night.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:50 PM   #164
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Have you bought a converter yet? If not there is a 45 amp unit on EBay for a really good price. It's an Inteli-Power PD9245C for $129.59 including shipping. I just bought one for the TWINKIE. It's suppose to be one of the latest and greatest. For that price, I just had to try it out. 45amps would be more than you will ever need. OH! and it's new not used.
I've been wanting to replace the old Univolt for some time now. So another project is in the making.
Sounds like a good price - do I need one if I install a solar panel to charge the battery?
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:51 PM   #165
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Converter

Glad to hear everything worked. AGAIN: EXCELLENT JOB!

I don't believe a solar panel will be enough to keep your battery charged when your trailer is in use. Especially if you have to get a new fridge that requires 12 volts to operate. The water pump and the furnace also require a considerable amount of power to operate. Don't know what you had planned for heat.
If you plan to be plugged into the "grid", then I would recommend a converter.
I'm not sure what size panel you were planning to install. They are rated in watts. When the makers of the panels rate the output it is for a brite sunny day, much like those you have there in the valley. So their output is not constant, even on sunny days because of the angle facing the sun.

I would recommend that you check out the articles in the forum that deal with solar before you buy a solar panel system or a converter for that matter.
I think you will find that solar panels are still very expensive for something that would keep up if you use the battery power much. Most people from what I can see who camp off the "Grid" for extended periods of time with solar also have a generator.
If you have a generator and want to charge the battery; you will need a converter; if you are on the grid and want to charge the battery you will need a converter.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:25 PM   #166
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Solar

Lindy; Here are a few comments from people who have solar. Most have an alternative power source (ie generator): especially in the colder climates.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ain-72048.html
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:32 PM   #167
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Glad to hear everything worked. AGAIN: EXCELLENT JOB!

I don't believe a solar panel will be enough to keep your battery charged when your trailer is in use. Especially if you have to get a new fridge that requires 12 volts to operate. The water pump and the furnace also require a considerable amount of power to operate. Don't know what you had planned for heat.
If you plan to be plugged into the "grid", then I would recommend a converter.
I'm not sure what size panel you were planning to install. They are rated in watts. When the makers of the panels rate the output it is for a brite sunny day, much like those you have there in the valley. So their output is not constant, even on sunny days because of the angle facing the sun.

I would recommend that you check out the articles in the forum that deal with solar before you buy a solar panel system or a converter for that matter.
I think you will find that solar panels are still very expensive for something that would keep up if you use the battery power much. Most people from what I can see who camp off the "Grid" for extended periods of time with solar also have a generator.
If you have a generator and want to charge the battery; you will need a converter; if you are on the grid and want to charge the battery you will need a converter.
Most of the time when we go camping, we're not in a campground. Usually at a lake fishing and no hookups or somewhere on national forest service or BLM land. Our heater is only propane (if, of course, it works) and doesn't have any DC hookup at all. As yet, I don't know if we will have to get another fridge. I plan to have probably just 2 or 3 small DC lights and we do have a propane light that we will probably use most of the time.

But, if it isn't a big deal to install (AND you can walk me through it), the converter you told me about on e-bay isn't that much $$ so it might be worth it to go ahead and put it in and then I'd have other options. We don't like generators so if we're boondocking we'd have to have solar or just be very conservative with the battery. And Chris told me how to have a spare battery that can be charged off the TV while driving back and forth to the fishing hole.

So, how big a deal is it to install?
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:44 AM   #168
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Lindy;
It's super simple. I can't remember if the one I ordered has an AC cord with a plug already attached. I've looked at sooo many lately. If not, I plan to put a cord on with a plug for the AC side and then it will just plug into an AC outlet. Th PD9245C converter will draw 725 watts, which is about 6 amps on the AC side.
The DC side has 2 wires, one positive and one negative. With your setup you would just connect the Positive black wire to the center of the fuse block where you have the black wire for the battery, then connect the Negative white wire to the center post of the ground/common bus where you have all of the white wires connected. That's it! No fuses or anything. The reason I say connect it to the center post; they have a higher current carrying capacity than the stab on connectors. Use #8 wire for the DC side; #6 would be even better.
I am going to assume you would install it close to the location of the fuse blocks. If you locate it any distance from there, then we would have to consider larger wire for the DC side.
It should not be in a small space where the air won't circulate; it does have a fan.
If you decide to buy one; we can have a more detailed discussion on location.
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