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Old 12-15-2010, 03:02 PM   #127
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couple more pictures

Maybe you can tell better about the fuse boxes with these pictures.
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:30 PM   #128
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Now for the questions:

1. Do I have the white wires connected to the right lug on the ganged fuse box? It looks like a common/ground buss, but check it with your meter in the 2K mode to make sure it is not connected to the fuse terminals. Disconnect the wires while testing. If it is the common/ground buss at least one of the white wires should go to the frame.

2. What are those connections for on the lower left of the ganged fuse box (where I have the white wires connected to the nut)? See question #1

3. Does it look like the fuse boxes are set up ok? Yes. If you mean the mounting.

4. The black #10 wire will come in through the new hole then connect to what? The center lug on the ganged box? Then another black wire will be tied in there as well and go over to the Ucord fuse box to the 30 amp fuse? I'll make an educated guess and say the big nut near the center of the block. Both wires.

5. Should the in-line 30 amp fuse box on the #10 white wire from the battery be INSIDE the trailer (before it goes to the ground lug) or OUTSIDE the trailer? The only in-lime 30 amp fuse I could find is wired with #12 wire. The guy at the auto parts place said it would work. Will it or do I need to get another kind? As long as it is not in the white wire that goes to the brakes. #12 wire is good for 20 amps, so just use a 20 amp fuse, you should be fine. Inside is always better than outside. If you want a 30 amp fuse you need a 30 amp fuse holder.

6. When I wire my interior lights, right now I only have the one green wire coming from the fuse box. If I put in two 12VDC lights can I just tie into that one wire for the 2nd light? Yes If I might ask. Why did you choose green? It's really not part of the tail/marker light circuit.

7. What do I do at the other end of the fridge wire? Will it be hard-wired into the fridge or is there some kind of plug that I wire into? What gauge wire should I run for the fridge? It depends on the fridge. I would run #12 wire. You can always put the proper size fuse in to give you protection, but if you ran a #16 and it was too small, you would have to replace it.
Just wrap tape around the fridge end and leave the fuse out of the circuit until you get a new fridge. Leave lots of wire cause you don't know where it will connect.

The diagram of the wiring has been INCREDIBLE!!! It made the entire job so much easier. I hope others will use it as well. It is so easy to follow (IF, of course, I did it right!).

So, with the diagram and the written instructions, how did I do? Start all over or keep going? YOU DID AND EXCELLENT JOB!!!! Nice job on the PVC pipe.

Just a suggestion on the 3 wires going thru the new hole. If you were to get a piece of fuel hose long enough 3/8" should be big enough. You could slip it over the wires, then thru the hole into the trailer and tape up the end that is exposed to the weather or use some heat shrink. It would give you more protection than the tape alone.

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Old 12-15-2010, 04:03 PM   #129
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Pump

Another suggestion for your pump. Pick up one of those cheap plastic boot trays and put it under the pump (if you have room). That way if you have a leak the tray will catch the water. It works good when you winterize because there is always a little spill when doing that.
OH! You have the ground wire hooked up to the pump. I see a red wire that looks like it is connected to the pump as well; if so that is the wire that goes to the fuse. The black wire is common/ground.

It's that screwed up automotive wire color thing again. Red is positive

Black is negative on the pump.

Just connect the black wire to the common buss where the white wires are connected. Run the Red wire up to where the black is connected in the photo.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:23 PM   #130
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Hi Lindy,

Couple of things.

I think you have the pump wired backwards. Since it has a red and black wire, I would think the red wire goes to +12 volts, and the black wire in the return (ground). Does the label on the pump say one way or the other? Or do you have instructions for wiring the pump?

When you do the rest of the pump wiring, are you going to run from the fuse block to the switch and then to the pump? In other words, have the switch in the +12 volt wire going to the pump? That would make the most sense I think.

The 20 and 5 amp fuses you have are the mini-ATC variety, not the full sized ATC ones. I would replace them with the full size ATC fuses. I think the full sized ones will stay in the fuse block better. My concern would be the mini-ATC fuses vibrating out of the fuse block while traveling.

Since you have an open space in the ucord fuse block, you could use it for a 30 amp fuse for the white wire going to the battery. To do that properly, you would run a 10 gauge white wire from the battery inside to one side of the fuse block. The other side of the fuse block would have a white wire, that is then connected to the ground lug on the ganged fuse block. Also attached to that ground lug would be a white wire to connect to the frame (back outside), and the white wire on the ucord. On the frame bolt you would have the white wire from the ganged fuse block and the white wire for the brakes.

That make sense? Would you like me to update the drawing for you to show these new white wire connections?

Chris
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:26 PM   #131
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TG - you updated your post while I was typing!

And yes Lindy, you've done excellent work so far! No need to start over.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:43 PM   #132
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Pump

Lindy;
I forgot to mention that the RED wire on the pump should go to the switch for the pump, then another wire will go from the other side of the switch to the fuse block.


Chris: We must get on the computer at the same time of day. I went away and then thought about the switch on the pump. Went right to the bottom to write this, then scrolled back up and saw your post. Good catch!
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:51 PM   #133
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TG, Just so people don't start thinking we're married to each other!
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:40 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Now for the questions:

1. Do I have the white wires connected to the right lug on the ganged fuse box? It looks like a common/ground buss, but check it with your meter in the 2K mode to make sure it is not connected to the fuse terminals. Disconnect the wires while testing. If it is the common/ground buss at least one of the white wires should go to the frame. Huh? When I test it, what do I test? Where do I put the probes and what # am I looking for?

2. What are those connections for on the lower left of the ganged fuse box (where I have the white wires connected to the nut)? See question #1

3. Does it look like the fuse boxes are set up ok? Yes. If you mean the mounting.

4. The black #10 wire will come in through the new hole then connect to what? The center lug on the ganged box? Then another black wire will be tied in there as well and go over to the Ucord fuse box to the 30 amp fuse? I'll make an educated guess and say the big nut near the center of the block. Both wires. Got it!

5. Should the in-line 30 amp fuse box on the #10 white wire from the battery be INSIDE the trailer (before it goes to the ground lug) or OUTSIDE the trailer? The only in-lime 30 amp fuse I could find is wired with #12 wire. The guy at the auto parts place said it would work. Will it or do I need to get another kind? As long as it is not in the white wire that goes to the brakes. #12 wire is good for 20 amps, so just use a 20 amp fuse, you should be fine. Inside is always better than outside. If you want a 30 amp fuse you need a 30 amp fuse holder. I will be able to put it inside. My in-line fuse holder came with a 30 amp fuse in it but it says on the pkg. that it is #12 wire. Seems that they shouldn't make it for 30 amps if #12 only handles 20 amps.

6. When I wire my interior lights, right now I only have the one green wire coming from the fuse box. If I put in two 12VDC lights can I just tie into that one wire for the 2nd light? Yes If I might ask. Why did you choose green? It's really not part of the tail/marker light circuit. Because I had it? Because I like green? I thought since its all going to be hidden anyway, it wouldn't make any difference. I can exchange it for another color if that is better - yellow? I have a lot of old yellow wire laying around in the trailer.

7. What do I do at the other end of the fridge wire? Will it be hard-wired into the fridge or is there some kind of plug that I wire into? What gauge wire should I run for the fridge? It depends on the fridge. I would run #12 wire. You can always put the proper size fuse in to give you protection, but if you ran a #16 and it was too small, you would have to replace it.
Just wrap tape around the fridge end and leave the fuse out of the circuit until you get a new fridge. Leave lots of wire cause you don't know where it will connect. Will do. I have a 15 amp fuse in it but will take it out and save it for when I get a new fridge.

The diagram of the wiring has been INCREDIBLE!!! It made the entire job so much easier. I hope others will use it as well. It is so easy to follow (IF, of course, I did it right!).

So, with the diagram and the written instructions, how did I do? Start all over or keep going? YOU DID AND EXCELLENT JOB!!!! Nice job on the PVC pipe. Thanks! I had a LOT of help from my friends!!

Just a suggestion on the 3 wires going thru the new hole. If you were to get a piece of fuel hose long enough 3/8" should be big enough. You could slip it over the wires, then thru the hole into the trailer and tape up the end that is exposed to the weather or use some heat shrink. It would give you more protection than the tape alone. I must be doing something wrong with the heat shrink. Can you give me a quick "how to" lesson? Do I just twist the wires together then slip the tube of heat shrink over it then heat it? I have been putting the wires together with connectors and the dang heat stuff won't go over it.

I will check the instructions for the water pump tomorrow. I thought it said that the red went to the switch and the black to the battery.

But you said I connect the black wire to the common buss (that's the lug with the white wires on it?)? Fortunately, I still have the instructions that came with the thing.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:43 PM   #135
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TG, Just so people don't start thinking we're married to each other!
Well, you WOULD make a very productive couple at least!
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:10 PM   #136
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Hi Lindy,

Couple of things.

I think you have the pump wired backwards. Since it has a red and black wire, I would think the red wire goes to +12 volts, and the black wire in the return (ground). Does the label on the pump say one way or the other? Or do you have instructions for wiring the pump? Yes, I'll check the instructions tomorrow. It even has pictures!

When you do the rest of the pump wiring, are you going to run from the fuse block to the switch and then to the pump? In other words, have the switch in the +12 volt wire going to the pump? That would make the most sense I think. So, looking at the picture of the back of the switch (I've posted it again), I come into the switch from the fuse box to one of the yellow wires then do I connect the other yellow wire to the black wire of the little light then go from the other black wire back to the pump?

The 20 and 5 amp fuses you have are the mini-ATC variety, not the full sized ATC ones. I would replace them with the full size ATC fuses. I think the full sized ones will stay in the fuse block better. My concern would be the mini-ATC fuses vibrating out of the fuse block while traveling. I will take them back and get the right kind. Gene liked those because they light up when they're blown. Oh brother!

Since you have an open space in the ucord fuse block, you could use it for a 30 amp fuse for the white wire going to the battery. To do that properly, you would run a 10 gauge white wire from the battery inside to one side of the fuse block. The other side of the fuse block would have a white wire, that is then connected to the ground lug on the ganged fuse block. Also attached to that ground lug would be a white wire to connect to the frame (back outside), and the white wire on the ucord. On the frame bolt you would have the white wire from the ganged fuse block and the white wire for the brakes. OK - I already have the white wire from the frame bolt and the white wire from the Ucord connected to the ganged fuse block nut. If I put a 30 amp fuse in that bottom space in the Ucord fuse block then I wouldn't need the in-line fuse holder, right? I would come in on the right with the #10 white wire from the battery and opposite that would have a #10 white go from there to the lug with the other two. Right?

That make sense? Would you like me to update the drawing for you to show these new white wire connections?

Chris
If I interpreted it right then I don't need another drawing. If I didn't get it right then another drawing would be great. I am, needless to say, a very visual learner (and also slow...)
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:33 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
Now for the questions:

1. Do I have the white wires connected to the right lug on the ganged fuse box? It looks like a common/ground buss, but check it with your meter in the 2K mode to make sure it is not connected to the fuse terminals. Disconnect the wires while testing. If it is the common/ground buss at least one of the white wires should go to the frame. Huh? When I test it, what do I test? Where do I put the probes and what # am I looking for?
Put the meter on 2K, then touch the metal piece where the white wires connected with the RED probe, hold it there and touch one of the places you hooked the individual wires to (like for the pump) with the BLACK probe. If the reading is "1" they are not connected, therefore the terminal where you have the white wire is in fact the common/ground terminating point. The lug in the center is the power lug where you will connect the battery etc.
2. What are those connections for on the lower left of the ganged fuse box (where I have the white wires connected to the nut)? See question #1

3. Does it look like the fuse boxes are set up ok? Yes. If you mean the mounting.

4. The black #10 wire will come in through the new hole then connect to what? The center lug on the ganged box? Then another black wire will be tied in there as well and go over to the Ucord fuse box to the 30 amp fuse? I'll make an educated guess and say the big nut near the center of the block. Both wires. Got it!

5. Should the in-line 30 amp fuse box on the #10 white wire from the battery be INSIDE the trailer (before it goes to the ground lug) or OUTSIDE the trailer? The only in-lime 30 amp fuse I could find is wired with #12 wire. The guy at the auto parts place said it would work. Will it or do I need to get another kind? As long as it is not in the white wire that goes to the brakes. #12 wire is good for 20 amps, so just use a 20 amp fuse, you should be fine. Inside is always better than outside. If you want a 30 amp fuse you need a 30 amp fuse holder. I will be able to put it inside. My in-line fuse holder came with a 30 amp fuse in it but it says on the pkg. that it is #12 wire. Seems that they shouldn't make it for 30 amps if #12 only handles 20 amps. I think you should skip the inline fuse and go with Chris's idea of using the spare space on the UCord fuse block.

6. When I wire my interior lights, right now I only have the one green wire coming from the fuse box. If I put in two 12VDC lights can I just tie into that one wire for the 2nd light? Yes If I might ask. Why did you choose green? It's really not part of the tail/marker light circuit. Because I had it? Because I like green? I thought since its all going to be hidden anyway, it wouldn't make any difference. I can exchange it for another color if that is better - yellow? I have a lot of old yellow wire laying around in the trailer.
No need, I was just curious. As long as you know what colors are for what it's OK.
7. What do I do at the other end of the fridge wire? Will it be hard-wired into the fridge or is there some kind of plug that I wire into? What gauge wire should I run for the fridge? It depends on the fridge. I would run #12 wire. You can always put the proper size fuse in to give you protection, but if you ran a #16 and it was too small, you would have to replace it.
Just wrap tape around the fridge end and leave the fuse out of the circuit until you get a new fridge. Leave lots of wire cause you don't know where it will connect. Will do. I have a 15 amp fuse in it but will take it out and save it for when I get a new fridge.

The diagram of the wiring has been INCREDIBLE!!! It made the entire job so much easier. I hope others will use it as well. It is so easy to follow (IF, of course, I did it right!).

So, with the diagram and the written instructions, how did I do? Start all over or keep going? YOU DID AND EXCELLENT JOB!!!! Nice job on the PVC pipe. Thanks! I had a LOT of help from my friends!!

Just a suggestion on the 3 wires going thru the new hole. If you were to get a piece of fuel hose long enough 3/8" should be big enough. You could slip it over the wires, then thru the hole into the trailer and tape up the end that is exposed to the weather or use some heat shrink. It would give you more protection than the tape alone. I must be doing something wrong with the heat shrink. Can you give me a quick "how to" lesson? Do I just twist the wires together then slip the tube of heat shrink over it then heat it? I have been putting the wires together with connectors and the dang heat stuff won't go over it.
If you don't have heat shrink big enough to go over the barrel lugs you can solder the wires together, then slide the heat shrink over the splice. Remember to put the heat shrink over one of the wires before soldering. Are you using barrel connectors to connect the wires or wire nuts? I see a wire nut on the new wiring going into the front of the trailer. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot you can use it to heat the tubing to shrink it down.


I will check the instructions for the water pump tomorrow. I thought it said that the red went to the switch and the black to the battery. I am sure the red wire on the pump is the positive wire. Which will go to one side of the switch along with one of the wires from the light. The other side of the switch connects to the fuse block. The other side of the light goes to ground/common. Does that make sense to you? I would take all of the old wiring off of the switch and run new, it looks like the switch has spade connectors like the fuse block.

But you said I connect the black wire to the common buss (that's the lug with the white wires on it?)? Fortunately, I still have the instructions that came with the thing. Yes the Black wire on the pump goes to the common/ground lug along with the whites. If you like I see you have extended the black wire from the pump with more black wire, you could cut the black you put on off and connect a white wire to the black from the pump and then connect it to the common/ground bus with the other whites. That way they would all be white.

I know this can be a little confusing, but think of the pump like you would the battery in your TV; Red is positive and Black is negative.


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Old 12-15-2010, 11:00 PM   #138
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I will check the instructions for the water pump tomorrow. I thought it said that the red went to the switch and the black to the battery. I am sure the red wire on the pump is the postive wire. Which will go to one side of the switch along with one of the wires from the light. The other side of the switch connects to the fuse block. The other side of the light goes to ground/common. Does that make sense to you? I think so. Red pump wire to yellow switch wire and include one of the wires from the light. Black wire from switch to fuse block (20 amp). Other wire on light to ground. Can it be grounded like it was with that bare wire screwed into the wall or should it go back to the fuse box and be grounded with the other grounds? That grounds the switch/light only? I still need to do what you say below from the pump to the ground buss?

But you said I connect the black wire to the common buss (that's the lug with the white wires on it?)? Fortunately, I still have the instructions that came with the thing. Yes the Black wire on the pump goes to the common/ground lug along with the whites. If you like I see you have extended the black wire from the pump with more black wire, you could cut the black you put on off and connect a white wire to the black from the pump and then connect it to the common/ground bus with the other whites. That way they would all be white.


Quote:

Now I get to dream about wiring again all night...
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:08 PM   #139
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The 2K test

Lindy: When you do the test for the ground/common lug on the fuse block make sure you have the fuse installed. But disconnect the wires during the test.
I will check the instructions for the water pump tomorrow. I thought it said that the red went to the switch and the black to the battery. If it says to the battery it is probably the negative terminal, look closely.. I am sure the red wire on the pump is the postive wire. Which will go to one side of the switch along with one of the wires from the light. The other side of the switch connects to the fuse block. The other side of the light goes to ground/common. Does that make sense to you? I think so. Red pump wire to yellow switch wire and include one of the wires from the light. Black wire from switch to fuse block (20 amp). Other wire on light to ground. Can it be grounded like it was with that bare wire screwed into the wall or should it go back to the fuse box and be grounded with the other grounds? That grounds the switch/light only? I still need to do what you say below from the pump to the ground buss? You can use the bare wire or even better just run a new white wire from the light to the place where the bare wire is connected to the skin. As I said earlier I would remove all of the old wiring from the switch and run new. Yes this only provides the common/ground for the light, you will still need to connect the black wire from the pump to the ground/common terminal where the other whites are connected. You don't have to put it under the bolt just put a spade lug on it and push it on to one of the spades sticking up next to the bolt. It's all the same thing.

I know how that goes with dreaming about wiring. It's hard to get it out of your mind when you are on a roll.
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:50 AM   #140
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I'm dreaming of a white wire...

Kay and I both end up dreaming about Little Girl, or other household projects when we're working on them. One of the hazards of working on things we care about.


From before: Since you have an open space in the ucord fuse block, you could use it for a 30 amp fuse for the white wire going to the battery. To do that properly, you would run a 10 gauge white wire from the battery inside to one side of the fuse block. The other side of the fuse block would have a white wire, that is then connected to the ground lug on the ganged fuse block. Also attached to that ground lug would be a white wire to connect to the frame (back outside), and the white wire on the ucord. On the frame bolt you would have the white wire from the ganged fuse block and the white wire for the brakes. OK - I already have the white wire from the frame bolt and the white wire from the Ucord connected to the ganged fuse block nut. If I put a 30 amp fuse in that bottom space in the Ucord fuse block then I wouldn't need the in-line fuse holder, right? Right - no need for the inline fuse now. I would come in on the right with the #10 white wire from the battery and opposite that would have a #10 white go from there to the lug with the other two. Right? Yup - you've got it!!!


I'm with TG on the pump switch and light - replace the wiring with new. Would you like that wiring added to the drawing, or do TG's instructions make sense to you?
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