DC problem

[litlgeezer]

While working on some insulation issues yesterday, I turned on the OH lamps in the bedroom and ALL my DC circuitry went dead! I checked to see that I had good fuses and no loose connections at the UniVolt device. I am getting 12 volts to each of the DC circuits, but getting no power to ANY of the devices on ANY of the circuits. I can't figure out why it suddenly lost all power to the DC circuits. Is the Univolt gone? I'm not familiar with this thing. The PO had a battery charger that he used to charge the trailer battery from a local AC plug. I later purchased a small maintenance charger for the same purpose. This AS has had several POs and there appears to have been a lot of jury rigging in the past that I have had to deal with. Also, there's a AC switch in the bedroom that goes to the Univolt, what is its purpose? I've kept it off since buying this unit last year. Any help with getting my DC back to work quickly will be appreciated. I just can't understand why ALL the circuits do not work, when I am getting a 12 volt reading on my meter at the circuit side of each fuse??

[garry]

How are you measuring from the battery or from a ground?

I ask because you could have a bad ground connection at the frame or a bad fuse on the negative side of the battery.

[Splitrock]

The converter will be easy to check with a multi-meter. A 12 volt jumper light is handy for helping to track down low voltage problems. I have my converter/charger on a switch. I remove the battery and turn the converter off during storage and during remodeling project while I'm hooked up to 120 volt shore power.

[litlgeezer]

Garry, This morning I took my 12v testing lamp and jumped from the + battery terminal to the AS frame and got no current.

[ventport]

Originally Posted by litlgeezer

Garry, This morning I took my 12v testing lamp and jumped from the + battery terminal to the AS frame and got no current.

Looks like you found your problem, bad ground. Start checking from the battery with your test light, one probe on the + side and start following the ground wire with the other probe. Test the ground every place there is a connection or fuse to find where the test light goes out. Then when it goes out you have found the bad connection.

[litlgeezer]

Yes, you are correct. I put a temp jumper from the + battery to the frame and whala, DC devices are working. Now, to pin point the bad connection. Thanks Garry and Ventport

[HowieE]

Sounds like you just bypassed the battery neutral to the frame ground. About all that is in that system is the battery connection, the cable, and the frame connection. My first thought would be the battery negative connection.

[litlgeezer]

Thanks to all this problem is solved and fixed! The battery negative fuse / holder beside the UniVolt cab was corroded. Cleaned both up and everything is working fine. Thanks to everyone who responded.

Regarding the UniVolt comments on my first post, it appears that this thing is not working - there is no hum sound at all. I'm thinking that it quit and a PO disconnected it and it is now just used as a circuit distribution panel. Are these things difficult to remove as I am thinking to upgrade to an "intellicharge' type converter, that would give me a fast charge when I needed it. Thanks again, that DC problem really shut me down.