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Old 12-03-2017, 03:14 PM   #1
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CTEK for AGMs

I'd like to use a CTEK charger to keep the AGMs in good shape while the trailer is sitting in the driveway (store mode). CTEK has been good to me for my cars so I've got some faith in that!

The Multi US 7002 looks like it will do the job?
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:34 PM   #2
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They certainly aren't cheap

They do have some that very specifically state they are good for AGM's. They also have some with temperature probes. Neither feature seems to make the cost any lower .... Last thing to do would be to match up the amp hours on the battery(s) with the rating on the charger. Since I don't know what AS you have, I can't guess at what batteries you are running .... In some cases the 2500 is the right answer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bob
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:33 PM   #3
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Got it Bob.
Ours is a 2017 FC 25 FB with solar.
Given your good advnce the CTEK 56-674 25000 has the capacity and than some. No kidding they are pricey.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:14 AM   #4
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You should keep the batteries as a pair for maintenance. If you have the group 27 batteries, they are up around 200AH in that configuration. That's what puts you in 2500 land. The crazy "8 step" stuff they do requires a bit more current than you might think. The question (of course) is - to you really *need* that part of it? Since there is no way to turn it off, you get it if you need it or not.

Bob
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:18 PM   #5
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Thanks Bob. You make a good point. I'm more wed to the brand than anything. I've been using CTEK to keep my 51 chevy truck and an car I only drive in the summer happy for many years.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:49 PM   #6
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The main knock on them seems to be cost. After that you get into things like "left it in the rain for ten years and it stopped working....". There are other less expensive ways to get the basic job done. Unfortunately there is no really accurate data on how reliable this or that gizmo is.

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Old 12-07-2017, 06:37 AM   #7
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CTEK is hooked up and chugging away in re-conditon mode due to the fact this battery was deeply discharged and only able to get it to 80%.

FWIIW The unit is substantial. It must weight 10 lbs! Nothing like the unit I've been using for cars. It even has a built in cooling fan, but it makes terrible espressos

Film at eleven.
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:49 AM   #8
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The 2500 is not at all tiny.

The fan and plugging it up with dirt is a caution you do see in some of the posts. It's probably worth popping the case open once a year and pulling the crud out.

Bob
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:01 PM   #9
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CTEK to the rescue. It finished the recovery cycle and shows a fully charged battery. I'm running thru. the "normal" cycle once than will give batteries a chance to settle down with nothing "on" and see if CTEK worked. Toes crossed.

If they don't hold a charge I'll take them out and have the local battery store test them.

Plan "b"?? Where, g-d forbid, is the best place to get a set of Lifeline GPL-24ts?

Wish me luck.

FWIIW and for newbs reading. I likely killed them from a week of camping with shore power and having the trailer battery switched to "use" the entire time. NOW after being on the forum for a while I'm learning this was a really bad idea.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:44 PM   #10
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Glad it looks like the 7002 seems to have recovered your AGM's for you. I have a 7002 that I use for the AGM battery in my Porsche and one that I'm using for the 6V AGM's in our AS.

I did a little research when I bought the first 7002. I contacted both CTEK and the OEM manufacturer of the battery in the Porsche to determine the correct maintenance setting on the charger for use with it's AGM battery. Both told me that the "snowflake" mode on the charger, represented by the "*" setting, was the one to use for that application, but apparently in can vary between brands of AGM batteries. FWIW, I've been using this mode for the trailer batteries as well. Just FYI.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:49 PM   #11
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Thanks Mike. Same same here. We both found CTEK for the same reason.

As Paul Harvey said "the rest of the story" soon.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:45 AM   #12
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The worst news. The CTEK will not take it too full charge. In post #9 the CTEK did show full charge however after letting the batteries settle down and attempting a second "normal" charge they are not charging to 100%.

The batteries must be damaged.

If anyone can suggest the best place to purchase two GPL-24T batteries I'd be grateful.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:32 AM   #13
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Lead is heavy stuff. With a few exceptions, you generally are better off finding a local dealer than shopping cross country. It's also a *lot* more convenient if it turns out warranty support is needed. A return to "where you bought it" means there are a few less questions .... I'd get the internet price from Mr Google and then make a couple of phone calls locally. A really quick look suggests that $250 delivered is a fairly good deal.

https://batteryguys.com/products/lif...nt=32270600516

Bob
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:58 PM   #14
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Good advice. I'm picking up from >> https://www.baltimorebattery.com
$257 and free delivery or not!!!
My worries are not over until I've got the Progressive Dynamics installed.
For the record that was not a complaint

Quote:
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Hi

Lead is heavy stuff. With a few exceptions, you generally are better off finding a local dealer than shopping cross country. It's also a *lot* more convenient if it turns out warranty support is needed. A return to "where you bought it" means there are a few less questions .... I'd get the internet price from Mr Google and then make a couple of phone calls locally. A really quick look suggests that $250 delivered is a fairly good deal.

https://batteryguys.com/products/lif...nt=32270600516

Bob
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:54 AM   #15
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The main thing to be careful about battery shopping it not to wind up a Uncle Bob's Battery. His prices are 10X what anybody else's are. He's *really* happy if he ever makes a sale .... Worrying about $10 when getting it locally, not worth the effort.

Bob ( ... how does $2,500 sound .... )
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:21 AM   #16
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Good stuff Unkl. I had some good luck yesterday and found some free batteries.

They were by the side of the road so I laid a crow bar across the terminals to be certain they had some juice. Just need some cleaning up.

It is crazy what people throw out. (Cough).

Next.
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:02 AM   #17
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Quote:
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-- snip -- not over until I've got the Progressive Dynamics installed -- snip --
Not over until you have a battery disconnect switch to remove the parasitic load while in storage and a good battery monitor to keep track of charge state. Pat
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:11 AM   #18
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Not over until you have a battery disconnect switch to remove the parasitic load while in storage and a good battery monitor to keep track of charge state. Pat
Just spend my time and money friend, go on!!! Kiddding. Please, recommend a great disconnect switch and location and I'll get cracking on it. Battery monitor I can probably accomplish. The Victron Battery Monitor (BMV-702) seems to be popular with this crowd yes? I have the PD 4655VL on order and will have it professionally installed...thanks to this forum.

New batteries installed and getting a top off.

New Year's resolution > "Use Switch is evil".

Anybody need some hardly used batteries?

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Old 12-12-2017, 03:36 PM   #19
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Just spend my time and money friend, go on!!! -- snip --
Spend your money? No, no, no ..... You need to save a bit and install that converter yourself. Develop DIY skills and that is not a bad project with which to start. Pay to have it installed if you want, but you too can brag and post pictures of your work.

Disconnect switch - several threads in process - see following.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...on-175762.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...-175156-8.html

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Old 12-13-2017, 06:34 AM   #20
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If wiring stuff up is a bit crazy to you, have somebody who knows what they are doing install your gizmos. Disconnect switches are a good idea. The battery monitors (Victron or any of the others) are also a good idea. As mentioned in *many* threads here, there are a number of ways to get things wrong.

Quick how to:

1) The disconnect switch *must* switch out all the wires to the positive or the combined negative post on the battery set. If you must, leave out the jack. Mine has a light on it .... hmm....

2) The battery monitor has a shunt. Don't get it out in the wet. It goes in series with *all* the cables from the combined negative post. No exceptions in this case.

3) The crimps on cable connectors matter a lot. Doing them with the proper tools is a "really good idea".

Yes, the details can go on and on. There are a lot of threads getting into the mistakes people have made. To me it's not rocket science. It is a pretty normal DIY project ...

Bob
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