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Old 01-30-2013, 03:11 PM   #1
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Crazy Argosy 12V issues!

Hi there- I am a new Argosy 26 owner and love the forum. I've searched the forum but can't seem to find the answer with how to tackle my problem.

I drove the Argosy home last week and everything except plumbing worked. (I bought new battery and 120V and 12V systems and Univolt worked). Now all three sets of 12V ceiling lights and water pump do not work. Where did I go wrong?

1) I gutted bathroom and moved the converter over to new spot to get everything where I want it (also have a new IOTA 55 amp converter on its way). All fuses test okay for continuity, there is a white (ground?) wire coming out of back of trailer but it doesn't help whether it is hooked to converter or not. The wires attached to Univolt are secure. I even replaced fuses with new ones thinking that was problem.

2) The previous owner said the wineguard type antenna didn't work and leaked, so I removed it and am putting solar vent in this space. He was right, the pink insulation was a bit damp so I dried it with a hair dryer in area and left open on bottom for a few days and its dry now.

The fuses on front of Univolt test ok, Univolt is charging and battery is new and charged. The Argosy manual shows a Circuit breaker up near the front water tank in a schematic, but I have looked everywhere and can't find it.

I removed one of the sets of lights from trailer (forward one) and it works fine out of trailer.

Do Univolts ever fail in a way to cause a problem like this? The new one wont be here for a few days.

Ideas anyone?

Thanks!

Rick
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #2
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Is there AC power to the Univolt. It should be humming and warm if it is powered.
Also look for a large 30-50 amp fuse mounted on the trailer wall. It will be in the negative wiring coming from the battery. It is a single fuse in it's own holder.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:24 PM   #3
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When you disconnected your univolt, did you take a picture of your wiring??
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:49 PM   #4
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The univolt hums when plugged in. When I moved it there was lots of wire so just moved it over about 18 inches. Did not have to disconnect. The 50 amp fuse also tests good for continuity. Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:16 PM   #5
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on my 78 Argosy 24 there are a series of connections at the front of the trailer underneath the seatee close to the water pump. They connect to the wires at the rear closet and are hard to get to. Also, putting in new fuses may not be a bad idea even though they tested ok ..... frustrating. Good luck.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:24 PM   #6
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Is the body of the univolt grounded to the AS body and frame?
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:36 PM   #7
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I did ground the univolt with white wire to frame. I am going to check the bus bar interface up front as you posted. Good idea!
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:29 AM   #8
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After receiving my new converter, I found the problem lay in the built in fuse block on old converter. Everything is working now. Only problem is I am trying to decide if I should wire converter to battery and then have battery positive lead go to fuse block, or the alternative, wire both battery positive and converter positive to fuse block. I have seen lots of different ways of doing this.
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