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Old 05-27-2016, 04:16 PM   #1
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Cracked Shore Power Cord - Repairable ????

The locking ring on the Furrion shore power cord on our 2014 23D is cracked and essentially worthless. Two questions:

1. Can the locking ring be replaced?

2. If so, how in the world? It looks impossible.

Thanks,

Rob (who searched to no avail!)
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:20 PM   #2
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The locking ring is easily replaceable, and not expensive.

http://furrion.com/product/plugs-and...cement-ring-2/
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
The locking ring is easily replaceable, and not expensive.

http://furrion.com/product/plugs-and...cement-ring-2/
Thanks a million, Terry...

But, I guess that I'm not very bright... I can't figure how one gets the danged thing onto the plug. It would seem to have to go over the very annular rim that it bears against when locking.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:33 PM   #4
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A little vaseline or white grease makes getting a new ring on the cord easier.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:49 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
A little vaseline or white grease makes getting a new ring on the cord easier.
Are you saying that the new ring has to be slipped over the opposite end of the cord, worked up to the trailer end, and that the grease will enable working the ring over the raised retaining ridge around the weather cover (grey in our FC20)? I guess it is rubber, and flexible to a degree, but on ours I can't picture being able to get the OEM ring off, by doing the above backwards FWIW. Perhaps the new replacement ring has a larger interior diameter?

A call to Furrion might be worthwhile IMO.
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
The locking ring is easily replaceable, and not expensive.

http://furrion.com/product/plugs-and...cement-ring-2/
OK, I'm probably a little dense, but I think I've got this figured out(!) The rear opening of the locking ring is heavily chamfered, and the 'plug' is made from a somewhat flexible material. So, the old ring is either broken off or cut off and the new ring is just 'lubed up' and forced over the annular rib. Ta da!

How'd I do?

Rob
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:33 PM   #7
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OK, I'm probably a little dense, but I think I've got this figured out(!) The rear opening of the locking ring is heavily chamfered, and the 'plug' is made from a somewhat flexible material. So, the old ring is either broken off or cut off and the new ring is just 'lubed up' and forced over the annular rib. Ta da!

How'd I do?

Rob
That is what I just asked switz to confirm, starting with your new ring at the opposite end of the cord, where the male plug end is.

Good luck!

Peter
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
That is what I just asked switz to confirm, starting with your new ring at the opposite end of the cord, where the male plug end is.

Good luck!

Peter
Peter, I see what you are saying. But, I'm thinking that may not be the magic formula since that way you would be working against the 'step' of the flat part of the locking ring instead of benefiting from the chamfered side. This just can't be as hard as my mind is making it. Of course, my wife would tell you that I can complicate absolutely anything.
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:57 PM   #9
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Will wait for switz's feedback. By the way welcome to the forum!

Peter
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:58 PM   #10
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Will wait for switz's feedback. By the way welcome to the forum!

Peter
Thank you, Peter, for your kind welcome... I'm grateful for the Forum and the willingness to help - and friendliness - of the many members.

'Switz' gave me great guidance as I changed my 14" wheels/tires to fifteens on our 23D. It was a godsend to get help from somebody who had already been down that path.

Rob
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:50 AM   #11
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At the end of the power cord where the broken ring is, break off the cracked one. Put some non-petroleum lube on the retaining rib and work the new ring on. Have had to do it with spit in a pinch. You are installing over the end of the plug, not coming from the other end of the cord.

I also carry the Furrion union as I have a second Furrion cord with twist-lok connectors on each end. One end can attach to the trailer as normal and the other plugs directly into the twist-lok connector on one of my Honda 2000 watt generators. With the union, I can create a much longer power cord. I think one is 25' and the other is 30' so together they are around 55' which is probably about as far as one wants to go to preclude voltage drop if the air conditioner and other "stuff" are running at the same time.

Sharing our experiences, both good and bad, helps everyone else. No need to create the wheel for each of us if some one else shares how they did it. Also sharing why what one tried did not work is very informative.
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:23 AM   #12
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Thanks -- on our plug that looks like that operation would be difficult to do with the OEM ring. Hopefully we'll never have to try!

Assuming your OEM charging cords are #10 AWG, your combined 55' is stretching it with A/C use IMO, but you appreciate that, I know. For the twist-lock 30A 120 volt outlet on our Honda 3500 gen, I just got a short adapter which turns the twist into the standard 30A welder's plug outlet FYI, which "regularizes" things away from the twist world.

Thank you for your previous advice on many diverse subjects, especially tires and wheels.

Have a good long weekend.

Peter
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Old 05-28-2016, 01:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
At the end of the power cord where the broken ring is, break off the cracked one. Put some non-petroleum lube on the retaining rib and work the new ring on. Have had to do it with spit in a pinch. You are installing over the end of the plug, not coming from the other end of the cord.

A warm, flexible retaining rib laying in the sun will help also.
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Old 05-28-2016, 02:44 PM   #14
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Or, just use black electric tape to fix the broken ring. I did that and later bought the replacement ring, but it still sits in my tool box.
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:19 PM   #15
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boil a pot of water, when water is boiling real good drop ring in and let it sit at a boil for a minute, the ring will soften a bit from the heat, then use lube and gently slip on
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:42 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
I also carry the Furrion union as I have a second Furrion cord with twist-lok connectors on each end.
+1 for an extension cord with twist-lok connectors on each end (technically a NEMA L5-30 connector). Note, it does not have to be a Furion brand. These extensions are common in marine applications, so look there, as well. My extension happens to be yellow and is made by Marinco.

As switz said, by adding a union (basically a double ended threaded sleeve), the connection between your usual power cord and the extension can be made water resistant.


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Old 05-29-2016, 08:13 AM   #17
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I added a power inlet to our 2015 23D International Serenity in front with a real transfer switch with contacts. (really cheap of Airstream to not put one at least on the International trim line of the 23' models for the multi thousand dollar price differential).

The Honda 2000 watt generator gets it's propane from the front outlet on the "A" frame. I made a six foot #10 cord with Furrion twist-lok fittings to go from the one generator with the twist-lok fitting to the trailer. If the second generator is added, then the full 30 amps would be available with a external propane tank for the second generator.
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