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Old 09-11-2019, 11:45 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
According to the wiring diagram in the manual, the red wire, on which she measured 12V, comes FROM the solenoid.
Al

Al, where did you get the wiring diagram? I don't see any at the Airstream site, just owners and parts manuals.
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Old 09-11-2019, 12:14 PM   #16
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Al, where did you get the wiring diagram? I don't see any at the Airstream site, just owners and parts manuals.
Rich,

There are two diagrams in the owners manual. In the front there is one focused on the primary side of the 12V distribution panel and the umbilical cable. It is old and not correct. There is also one in the electrical section of the manual which appears to be correct as it has the electronic disconnect. I also found the manual for the Parallax/Magnetek 7355 which shows a picture exactly like the one Pamu posted.

http://d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net...bea329205a.pdf

Al
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Old 09-11-2019, 12:58 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Rich,

There are two diagrams in the owners manual. In the front there is one focused on the primary side of the 12V distribution panel and the umbilical cable. It is old and not correct. There is also one in the electrical section of the manual which appears to be correct as it has the electronic disconnect. I also found the manual for the Parallax/Magnetek 7355 which shows a picture exactly like the one Pamu posted.

http://d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net...bea329205a.pdf

Al
In my owners manual for the 2006 there is no wiring diagram. The 2005 has one but they didn't have a 23' that year, only 22', which may be the same thing, but it's a poor copy and difficult to read. The 2007 owners manual is nearly identical to the 2006, again, no diagram.

The red wire in the parallax picture, #3, is going to the battery. Pamu said in post #17 in the other thread that she was reading 12v between the red and white wires. If there is no shore power, then it's reading battery voltage? Would the door switch need to be in Use to read 12v? From that red wire connection, power should be going to the 12v fuses in that panel circuit. Could the door switch be stuck and not going to Use, staying in Store?

She should be able to pull the fuses and get a 12v reading between the white wire and one side (top?) of the fuse connector. But she says that they only have 12v when there is shore power. That doesn't make sense to me. If the converter is putting out 12v, it's feeding those same fuses (and charging the battery), but if there is no shore power and the door switch is in Use, then she should also have power for all 12v areas.

Pamu says the Use/Store red light is always on, shore power or not. If so, then possibly that switch is defective and always in Use. But if that were true, then she would have 12v inside the trailer without shore power, which she doesn't.

I'm thinking that the Use/Store switch is defective, even is the light is on. She's not getting power from her batteries, it's as if the switch is in Store mode. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. I'll bet that if she replaces the Use/Store switch her problems will be solved. I hate throwing parts at problems but I don't see any other way without more readings.
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Old 09-11-2019, 01:28 PM   #18
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The use/store switch red light is always on with shore power applied. Plus, I think it has already been changed. I thought there was 12V on the red wire with shore power off. That pretty much confirms the problem is on the circuit board to me.

Al
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
The use/store switch red light is always on with shore power applied. Plus, I think it has already been changed. I thought there was 12V on the red wire with shore power off. That pretty much confirms the problem is on the circuit board to me.

Al
Fingers crossed that we are reaching the resolution of this problem. Thanks for your input. New converter arrived today.... thanks to bestconverters.com for super fast shipping!
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:36 PM   #20
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we use the victron 3k converter inverter
we also use some of their other products.

they all talk together and can to inet accessible and from Bluetooth on the phone
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:45 AM   #21
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we use the victron 3k converter inverter
we also use some of their other products.

they all talk together and can to inet accessible and from Bluetooth on the phone
Oh wow.... that's cool.
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
The use/store switch red light is always on with shore power applied. Plus, I think it has already been changed. I thought there was 12V on the red wire with shore power off. That pretty much confirms the problem is on the circuit board to me.

Al
Pamu says the red light is always on, regardless of the Use/Store position, if the batteries are connected but shore power isn't. That's what I find confusing. Hoping she's right that the new converter will fix the problem.

If the converter provides power to the batteries to charge them, but when the converter is off (no shore power) wouldn't there still be the nominal battery charge on that red wire??? Maybe only if Use/Store is in Use???
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Old 09-14-2019, 07:24 PM   #23
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A similar question, but with a different twist. Just came back from a weekend (last weekend) of camping, all was fine and had a great time. Parked the trailer in the drive last Sunday and plugged it in to a 120v outlet in my garage as always. Went out to the trailer an hour ago to get something and the lights are way low, ie running off an almost drained battery. Thinking the plug may have come out or the outlet had issues, but checked and all that is fine. Checked the connection to the AS and re-connected the plug, but nothing.


I installed the PD4655 a year or so ago, (bought it from Randy at Best) but can only guess that is the issue ? There is a small green light on, but will need to do some research to see what that means.


Any thoughts as to why I dont have shore power ?
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Old 09-14-2019, 07:55 PM   #24
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Hi

Indeed there is no such thing as a "good 5 cent cigar". There also is no such thing as a converter that never breaks. The stock units die. The replacement units also die. Some converters only last a couple weeks .....

=====

I completely agree that somewhere in the OP's trailer there is an issue and it's not the converter. Replacing the stock unit may give you a warm feeling. The only way to actually fix the problem is to dig in and troubleshoot the issue. If that's not something you want to do yourself, it's a pretty standard RV electrical sort of thing. There are a lot of dealer shops that can work it out.

======

To Fred with no power at home: If your converter is running and everything is dying, check the position of the use/store switch first (cycle it ....). Past that start tracing out the wiring with your DVM. First step is to see if the converter output is the same as the battery voltage. Based on that the process branches out .....

Bob
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Old Yesterday, 08:40 AM   #25
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Bob,

Tried the use/store switch and nothing, no clicks and the red light stays on ?

Does the solid small green light on the PD4655 indicate it is working ?
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Old Yesterday, 11:19 AM   #26
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Bob,

Tried the use/store switch and nothing, no clicks and the red light stays on ?

Does the solid small green light on the PD4655 indicate it is working ?
From the owners manual:
The Charge Wizard Operation:
While the built-in Charge Wizard automatically determines which operating mode is best suited to recharge or maintain opti-mum battery condition, the Wizard Mode Button allows for manual override and has an indicator light to indicate the mode of operation. (Located on DC board, included)
BOOST MODE Indicated by green LED remaining on. The output voltage is 14.4VDC to rapidly recharge the battery up to 90% of full charge.
NORMAL MODE When the battery is between 50% and 90% charged, the green LED will flash once per second. When the battery has reached 90% of full charge, the green LED will flash 2 - 3 times per second. In this mode the output voltage is 13.6VDC and the converter is safely completing the charge of the battery.
STORAGE MODE Indicated by green LED flashing every 6 - 8 seconds. In this mode the output voltage has been lowered to 13.2VDC, the RV battery is fully charged and the converter is maintaining the charge.


The Use/Store red light should be on when you are on shore power or (if not) when the switch is in Use position. If your red light stays on when you are not on shore power and the switch is in Store position, then you have the same issue as Pamu. If you switch between Use and Store and you do not hear the solenoid at the front clicking, then you probably have a bad solenoid (Pamu did). Your batteries may be totally down, did you take a voltage reading? Can you put a portable charger on your batteries? The difference between your situation and Pamu's is, she has no lights or other 12v device working when she is not on shore power; you do.

Pamu has replaced the solenoid and now can hear it clicking when using the Use / Store switch. She has bought a new converter (same as you, a PD4655).
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Old Yesterday, 05:47 PM   #27
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Appreciated Rich. As noted, no clicking when I change from use to store.
Based on what I have read below, will try replacing the solenoid.... now to locate it.

Havent checked my owners manual for a diagram, but will in the morning. My 23 is 2007, so guessing I will not find a diagram in there.


Rich, will try to get an external charge on the batteries tomorrow. I know they are on their last legs and was just hoping to get through the year.
BTW, with an external charge, does one need to do each battery separately, or can both be done at one time?

Luckily no more trips planned this year, other than the one to inside winter storage about 2 hours away.
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Old Yesterday, 08:57 PM   #28
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Appreciated Rich. As noted, no clicking when I change from use to store.
Based on what I have read below, will try replacing the solenoid.... now to locate it.

Haven't checked my owners manual for a diagram, but will in the morning. My 23 is 2007, so guessing I will not find a diagram in there.

Rich, will try to get an external charge on the batteries tomorrow. I know they are on their last legs and was just hoping to get through the year.
BTW, with an external charge, does one need to do each battery separately, or can both be done at one time?

Luckily no more trips planned this year, other than the one to inside winter storage about 2 hours away.
I have a 2006 23' Safari SE. The solenoid is close to the front wall, directly in front of the join between the 2 sections of L-couch, if you have one of those. Whatever you have in the front, you will probably have to take it out of the AS to get to the solenoid. Be sure to disconnect the batteries anytime you're working in that area. You could short a very expensive fuse in that area. Ask me how I know. (My first week of ownership)

You can charge up the batteries in parallel. Be sure to put the red connector on the positive of one battery and the black on the negative of the other battery so the charge goes completely through both batteries. (Of course you will have the short jumpers running + to + and - to - )

I would charge the batteries first and then test the solenoid again. Low batteries might make a difference if they are really down. Also, on shore power, are you reading 13-14 volts on the positive and negative heavy wires on the converter? (probably red and white cables)
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