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Old 11-23-2007, 08:39 AM   #1
adonh
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Profile:  1976 31' Sovereign
Missouri City , Texas
Posts: 150
Images: 1

Connecting the electrical supply

I am installing a new RV-500 water heater in my 1976 A/S and have a few questions on the electrical hookup. Folowing are the instructions provided:

>>Connecting The Electrical Supply
The water heater is designed for 12 VDC negative ground. The power leads are on the back of the heater and should be connected directly to the breaker panel of the coach, extending the wires if necessary. Red is positive (+) and black is negative(-).
It is suggested that the heater be connected to a switch or breaker rated at 2 amps. Never connect heater to a power converter without a battery in line. Be sure that the heater is connected to a "filtered" (pure DC) circuit of the converte
r.

<<

I do not currentlly have dedicated 12 wiring for the heater although there is 12v wiring in the area for lighting. How do I run a dedicated wiring from the main panle "connected to a switch or breaker rated at 2 amps. Never connect heater to a power converter without a battery in line. Be sure that the heater is connected to a "filtered" pure DC circut."

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

Don
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:47 AM   #2
azflycaster
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Profile:  1975 25' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
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I would tap into the existing power for the lights. You could add an in-line 2 amp fuse to protect the circuit. Since it only has a 2 amp rating, it is most likely power to the control board and will use much less then that.
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:13 AM   #3
Zeppelinium
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Profile:  1970 18' Caravel
1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
Palmer Lake , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh
...Never connect heater to a power converter without a battery in line. Be sure that the heater is connected to a "filtered" (pure DC) circuit of the converter.
...
Don
Don,

The heater controller is obviously sensitive to "noise" on the DC voltage. Older converters are notorious for poor voltage regulation, which is improved with a battery in the circuit. If you have an older converter, just make sure you always have a battery connected if the converter is powered up.

If you have a new converter, this is less of a problem. You won't find a special "filtered (pure DC)" output on the usual RV converters. I haven't seen one on any converter.

Don't worry about it. There's not much you can do, anyway. Just get the polarity right. BTW, with a modern converter you can probably get away with no battery in the line--they are pretty good--but I wouldn't do it on purpose. If you think about it, there are times when you're plugged in (so the converter is powered up) and you decide to switch out the battery. Oops.

Zep
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Old 11-24-2007, 05:37 PM   #4
adonh
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Profile:  1976 31' Sovereign
Missouri City , Texas
Posts: 150
Images: 1

Thanks Zep. I have a Magnetec 7400 that was installed about 4 yeras ago. I checked with their tech people and they said it produces clean filtered power at all connections.

Don
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Old 11-24-2007, 08:56 PM   #5
lewster
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Profile:  2006 19' International CCD
Marco Island, FL , Hood River, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh
Thanks Zep. I have a Magnetec 7400 that was installed about 4 yeras ago. I checked with their tech people and they said it produces clean filtered power at all connections.

Don
Don,

When you either get new batteries or feel that your present converter is no longer up to the task, I would replace the Magnatek with a good quality converter with 3-stage battery charging. WFCO and Intellitec 9200 series come to mind.

Your batteries will last far longer when properly charged....and they will THANK you!

Lew
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