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Old 11-15-2014, 11:38 AM   #15
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1966 24' Tradewind
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I'm sure someone has a 63 wiring diagram. I didn't look, but the Airstream website under the maintenance tab may have one there.

That said, here is my 66 Trade Wind wiring diagram. I post it as my 66 manual is "generic" for the models in 66. At least you can see the three 12v circuits, and the three 115v circuits in red (one exclusive for AC). And you can see how the converter drives the 12v circuits, charges the battery. And you can see the odd 12v negative fuse on the ground.

You need 12v for your furnace fan, water pump, roof vent fan, water heater control, fridge control, interior lights, etc. 115v AC powers outlets and the AC.
My 66 12v wire is like 12g black romex. The 115v is yellow 12g romex. I wired GFCI outlets in the bath, kitchen and outdoors.

Generally I have learned that the circuit breaker box is mounted in the street side rear. Shore power is generally connected on the street side behind the axles some where. This is the case on both my 66 and my 86.

The battery, converter, and fuse panel are in the rear on my 66, and in the front on my 86. My 66 had fuses and circuit breakers on the 12v circuits. I'm not an electrician and can't tell you why.

I'll bet my post will prompt the diagram you are seeking.

David
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:09 PM   #16
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I just drew this diagram to help me sort out what I need to buy. I am only focused on the 12V system for now. Still haven't figured out where I want to store my battery (ies).

Does the wire to the brakes normally stay outside underneath, or do you run in in the wall and down to the brake wire near the axle?

Also, I just got new tail likes that don't have white reverse lights. I understand they are not required. I plan to run the purple wire anyway so it's there for the future.

Please tell me if I have anything wrong. This is new to me.
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Old 11-15-2014, 03:00 PM   #17
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Complete rewire-where do I start ?

I would use today's standards for wiring the coach.
Black= +12 volts Charge Line
White= Common/Ground
Green= Tail/Marker lights
Red= Left Turn
Brown= Right Turn
Blue= Brakes
The colors chosen for the interior lights and other items could be your choice. Recommend not using any of the colors above.
You do not show a converter. The wiring should be such that a converter could be installed without major modifications. It should go between the battery and the breaker panel shown in your drawing. I would use a modern (blade type) fuse block as opposed to a breaker panel.
Of coarse the 120 volt panel and wiring is another animal.
The blue brake wire should run in the frame between the belly skin and floor. With the ends of the wires protruding thru the belly pan near each backing plate.
You will need a wire from the battery to the break away switch. Typically this circuit is not fused.
Plus a 12 volt wire to the electric jack. Should you chose to have an electric jack. It can be part of the break away wiring. But the wire that goes to the jack should be fused. Again, no fuse in the break away part going to the electric brakes.


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Old 11-16-2014, 09:23 AM   #18
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Thanks TG, I hope the info is helpful to aktundra as well. TG, when you say today's standards for color coding, don't the colors vary by tow vehicle? I was just trying to match up with my Chevy.

Roger on the converter, I was setting that aside until I start thinking about the 120V but I guess I should start now. Also have to figure out how to run the brake wire under the floor now that I am all sealed up.

I got my wire yesterday from the Uhaul Trailer shop. I got 40' combined white/brown/green/red for the running lights in 14 gauge. 15 feet of 10 gauge blue for the brake and 40' of black 10 gauge for the 12V. $35 and they cut and coiled it for me.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:03 PM   #19
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Complete rewire-where do I start ?

The colors are for trailers. Not the TV. Most if not all trailers are wired to this standard.
Since you are sealed up. You could run a conduit (thin wall) or even use PEX. Just do a good job of attaching it to the trailer.
The PEX will not interact with the belly pan aluminum.

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Old 11-17-2014, 10:29 AM   #20
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Thanks TG, I followed your advice and got my running lights all wired up yesterday and working...whoo hoo!

And thanks for the conduit idea for the brake line.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:58 PM   #21
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Well, made a little progress since my original post. the first pic on the left, looks like the feed from the tow vehicle. (I propped the original C channel behind the wires, and it has a hole, that would bring the wires up between the skins from under the trailer). Looks like the Orange wire is the 12v system, and this heads off in the direction of the battery box, to recharge the battery while towing. The green wire with black tracer are the brake/tail/turn/marker lights. I have pinged out the green/black wires, all external lights are now operational.

I should be ready to install the insulation. These wires will be behind the insulation, and future maintenance will be through holes in the exterior skin. The remaining electrical systems (house 12v & 110v) will be on top of the insulation, and accessible via holes in the interior skin.

This pic of the original belly pan is outside up (if still installed it would be outside down, and right side would be left side)

If I recall correctly the square hole in front is a hatch (at the bottom of the pic), would have allowed access between the belly pan and floor, and had a bunch of connections that would have attached the pig tail for tow vehicle connection plug to the trailer system. It looks like there is a 110v wire running the length of the trailer OUTSIDE the belly pan. Can anybody tell me what that wire might have been for ?
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:04 AM   #22
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Looks like the Bambi originally had 110v (orange wire is the house 12v) at the only roof hatch. Seems like most the vent fans are 12v.

Any idea what the 110v was for ?
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:11 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aktundra View Post
Looks like the Bambi originally had 110v (orange wire is the house 12v) at the only roof hatch. Seems like most the vent fans are 12v.

Any idea what the 110v was for ?
If someone wanted to add AC...to the AS... the 110VAC wiring was nearby.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:25 AM   #24
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There was also a 110 exterior light. The light was kind of in an awkward place, half way between the front door and the tongue. (not really a porch light, not really a utility light for the propane and the towing areas). The fixture I inherited was loosely attached and wired in, the shroud attached with sheet metal screws, so I assumed it was an after-the-fact addition. However its 110 wire is threaded through the ribs & rubber grometed so seems to be a factory original.

I am thinking I don't need this light, and if I keep it, it should be 12v.

What I am missing here? Why did the AS Gods think it was a good idea ?
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:43 AM   #25
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If I have not been dismissed as a total idiot, one final question for today. this pic is the rear of the trailer in the area where the stove and refrigerator where originally installed. If the wire coloring scheme holds true, the green/black wire should be for the exterior towing lights. (orange for 12v and the heavy household wire for 110)

It may be apparent when I put in the rest of the interior skins, but any suggestions why the green/black wire comes inside simply to be grounded? And where does it come from ?
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:53 AM   #26
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My 66 Trade Wind has the exterior lights and brake wire "bundle" running in the curb side frame rail. There is an access hatch in the belly ban under the trailer on the curb side front, just like you picture. The 7 pin connector cable runs inside the A frame box channel and terminates at this access hatch. There it is connected to the wires running along the frame C channel.

I have no idea why there would by a 115v AC wire running along the bottom of the trailer. Previous Owner? I can't imagine a 115v AC porch light. You will want this 12v.

In the early sixties, Airstream was making a "park model" that was designed rather like a mobile home. It had mostly 115v appliances instead of 12v appliances. Is your trailer one of those?

The wire colors used in 1966 do not correlate to current standards. The Airstream diagram I posted above may help you identify the red and black wire.

The seven pin connector wire bundle ran all the way to the rear of my trailer where it can connect to the tail lights and fuse panel. It included a wire to charge the battery, and a wire to connect to the 12v ground bolt.

Looks like you're making progress.

David
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:10 PM   #27
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Aktundra,

I don't see any reason to have shore power lights...today's LED's are bright enough for anything and low drag on your 12V system.

I bet the 120V wire going to the ceiling was for another light (I had one in mine too).

I am zeroing in on my 120V plan and will post a diagram when I think I have it nailed.

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Old 11-29-2014, 09:30 PM   #28
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Does anybody recognize this component of the 1963 12v system mounted in between the battery box and an external hatch? I could probably figure it out if I stripped off the layer of paint, and I am asking mainly out of curiosity. Doubt it is something I would reuse. It looks like it might be some kind of breaker
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