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Old 09-14-2004, 05:51 PM   #1
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Rivet Chasing wire

I bought a gutted-out '58 Traveler (everything inside removed). I'm in the process of re-wiring the whole trailer with both the 110 volt and the 12 volt systems (lights, electrical outlets etc.) and I'm trying to use the original locations as the holes for lights and plugs are already there.
My problem is that when I try to run a wire down between the walls, (even the original wiring was removed by the P.O.) I always encounter an obstacle and cannot get the wire down to below the floorline to where I can wire everything from underneath to the convertor up front. Is there a special trick I don't know about or did Airstream run the wiring horizontaly between the walls and if so, would I be able to run it that way without removing interior skin? I also don't want to run it expossed with conduit inside.
Please help!
Ernie
'58 Traveler, 18ft.
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:04 PM   #2
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How do you feel about removing all the interior panels?
I don't think AS ran any wiring except the brakes below the floor, there certainly wasn't any in my '59. Everything runs through grommets in the walls. There are lots of horizontal frame members in the walls.
I put three conduit runs under the floor when I refloored my Tradewind. One for the brakes/tail lights, one for 120V, and one for 12V.
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:48 PM   #3
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So it begins. A little repair, a little problem, next thing you know you have a pile of sheet metal, steel, and rivet fragments in your drive and the neighbors ask if you sold that nice old trailer you use to park there.
If you don't want to remove panels how about wiremold. You will still have to deal with the midway horizontal braces unless you keep all the electric stuff above that level. That should be about the same as my 59. Let me know is you need the height and I will measure it for you as I have ventured into the grand full monty. Use the metal kind and the job will look better and last alot longer. Then Paint it the same as your walls. Also use strand wire if you haven't got it yet, hold up to vibration better they say. Don't skip on the gauge as more is better. The original wire was all #12 and #10 in my 59.
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Old 09-15-2004, 06:07 PM   #4
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Thanks Mark and over59;

I was afraid of this, but oh well, it's gotta be done so here I go. I think I will go with the wiremold above the floor and run it down under the floor inside conduit to the front and back up again at the convertor and breaker box. Did you use the same #10 and #12 for both the 12 volt and the 110 volt?
I am very thankfull for the advice.
Ernie
'59 Traveler 18ft.
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Old 09-15-2004, 06:15 PM   #5
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Rivet Over59

I do need the dimension for that level, please.
Ernie
'59 Traveler 18ft.
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Old 09-15-2004, 06:22 PM   #6
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Most of the wiring should be in behind the lower panels, so you don't have to remove all the panels

I used conduit for brake wires and ran an a/c wire for the a/c

Marker lights, brake lights etc and still in the wall, but just behind the lower panels as original

Ken
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Old 09-15-2004, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aztlanco
Did you use the same #10 and #12 for both the 12 volt and the 110 volt?
I am very thankfull for the advice.
Ernie
'59 Traveler 18ft.
Ernie,
Possible problem with running the wire under the floor is you should either stay outside the frame or inside, unless you want to cut a hole in the frame rails (not a good idea) or route it outside the belly pan where you cross the frame.

I ran the conduit inside the frame rails, which means I need to plan carefully so that it comes up through the floor under a cabinet, bed, or the Gaucho, and then runs concealed over to the wall and up.
If you route it outside the frame, it would be easier to come up through the floor close to the walls. But then you need to figure out how to get around the wheel wells. Either way is possible with a little planning.

If you plan to run a main 12V feeder line from front to back, such as from an inverter or converter, you might need to go larger than 10AWG. Maybe 6AWG. Depends on your amp load and distribution points.
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Old 09-15-2004, 10:13 PM   #8
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Don't know what was what for wire but it was most all #12. 12 should be good for everything but I'ld use 10 for Air Conditioner. You have to put the AC to DC convert close to the batteries or the wire size gets out of controll. There a table somewhere online with the amp/distance/size for converters. Check Solar sites maybe. If the AC panel / Converter / (Inverter?)/ Batteries are next to each other it's alot cleaner. I run #6 from converter to Batteries about 5 feet. The heavier wire cost a few cents more but give you a whole lot of error room.

Measurement to come.
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Old 09-16-2004, 12:30 AM   #9
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Thanks guys;
You are being very helpfull and have given me much insight. I'm new to this but I love doing every bit of it!
Ernie
'58 Traveler 18ft.
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:31 AM   #10
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I used to have a 59 Traveler - great trailer - if you need help specific to that trailer, let me know - somewhere I have an original wiring diagram if you need it.

Ken
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