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Old 09-25-2015, 06:46 PM   #15
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Thanks, Dan - if I had smoke I never saw it! I thought I had everything turned off, disconnected and etc. There was power to the wire I had from the adjacent (driver's side upper corner) marker light. The first of the (center) three from the drivers side, and the middle marker lights (of those three) never did work (even when I put in new bulbs several years ago) and when I removed them, the wires merely came out of the hole with them (i.e., they were not connected)

My first fishing expedition was adjacent to that working upper corner marker light, and I got a red wire (after a little bit of frustration, of course... that's why it's called 'fishing') and tested the continuity and the meter pegged to the right. I had (I believed) the connecting wire to that light. From there, I spliced new wire from marker light to marker light. It was doing the middle that (as stated in previous posts) I caught a green wire - but never pulled so hard that it released tension - so I thought I had merely taken up slack, let it go and continued fishing.

I suppose somewhere in all this I've done something - a blown fuse could be the answer and I've checked the ones (in-line) at the water pump, end of the control panel, etc... every fuse I could easily find. Actually, if in the end that is ALL it is I'll be lucky. I did not TEST the fuses and HiJoeSilver has a great point - I'll do that.

Lumatic - I agree that the markers should run off only the tow vehicle (hence the threads on how to turn them into "party lights" at night while parked to run them off the house battery). The battery charges fine - both from shore power and from TV. But the big problem is not the marker lights - they work well and look sharp. Nothing on that '76 era control panel works: the tank level indicators, the "panel lights" that illuminate those tank level guages, the water pump switch or the red "panel" light that indicates it is energized. BUT the lever that turns on/off the overhead vent fan DOES work (but I think that fan lever merely opens up the door as it switches (somehow) the circuit). And... to complicate it... the electric jack works from the tow vehicle, previously worked from the house battery, but now only works from the tow vehicle.

Thanks to all of you - I very much appreciate every bit of your input and I'll check these as I can this weekend (we're in the Tetons) and will be home Tuesday so probably won't post anything on the thread until something has changed.

I'd post one of those smiley faces holding flowers but it's just not my style... but I do, very much, thank all of you who have responded. I'll keep you posted because I think, once this problem is solved, it can help someone else.

Best,

Dave
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OilnH2o View Post

Nothing on that '76 era control panel works: the tank level indicators, the "panel lights" that illuminate those tank level guages, the water pump switch or the red "panel" light that indicates it is energized.


Dave
Most control panels from that era do not have working tank indicators due to the sensors in the tank long since giving up the ghost. You kinda need switch for the water pump. Check if you have power coming in to the rocker switch.
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:39 PM   #17
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I am presently working on a 76 Overlander and found that the only way to get the tank level indicators to work was to clean the 2 pin plugs that are inline near the tanks. May work for you as well.
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:31 PM   #18
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On my tank level panel with the pump switch and volt meter etc the pump switch gets power from a junction in the wire feeding positive to the panel if that makes sense, so it's somewhat independent. Might be a loose junction behind the panel, it's a mess of wires I know but once you eliminate the many tank wires you'll probably find the positive to the panel and pump switch are inter connected and probably loose where they split.
Do you have 2 switches that operate the pump, or a second in the bath? Rear bath?
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:30 AM   #19
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Hello,

Macofpel may have hit on something as well as Lumatic, and others.

Electric circuits are just that. "Electric Circuits", a loop.

Because you have full system operation when you contact the TV, it could be that you are acheving ground for one side of the affected circuits when connected. Otherwise. No ground no workie. In such a case the volt ohm meter will show fuses, etc are ok.

It is possible that the PO or the others that worked on the AS did some Southeren Enginerring somewhere in the AS and ground was being established thru a ground lead to the clearance lights.

Led lights don't play games with ground. If not wired correctly they do not work at all. And you can not get to ground thru them when a potential (power) is not applied.

The fishing for a connection for the front lights may not have done a thing to you. The PO may have hooked up ground with a press fitting and during the fishing trip the grounding pulled loose. Either could be the case.

To test this wild guess, at the TV 7 way connector from the AS pull back the cover, remove the screw for ground and pull the wire loose, and see if the problem does NOT go away. If it does, reconnect ground and see if all is now ok. (Remember to have trailer on the ball)

If this tests true, the offending circuits are not being grounded because the PO found a wire to ground something and hooked up to wrong side of clearence lights. It worked ok.

You found the problem when you went to LED lighting, regular light bulbs are really only a shorted wire in a glass bulb that glows when power is applied. (When shorted tween positive and negative post of battery)

Hope this blurb does not confuse the situation.

Happy trails.
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:45 PM   #20
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Dave-

Are the cable ends OK ... not corroded or loose at the batts?
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:35 PM   #21
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Dave-
Are the cable ends OK ... not corroded or loose at the batts?
All okay, Jerry - as above, the whole systems works fine on the battery... except for the water pump (and everything else in the overhead control panel; and also I've discovered the front overhead vent-fan) and the power jack.

Everything, including (the pump, jack, etc.) works normally when connected to the TV.

The key is that control panel I think (or at least it's a clue) because when on shore power or house battery nothing inside that panel is energized - no "power" light, no water pump, no tank monitor lights or rocker switches to see levels. Make one simple change - plug into the Suburban and like magic, it all works as normal! Including the Control Panel lights, meters, water pump switch....

Everything, except those same items noted above as not working on the house battery, works on shore power. So, there is no difference between battery and shore power - in terms of what works, and what doesn't.

I"m in the middle of trying some of the suggestions by the many responders above... having fun!
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:37 PM   #22
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Boy that's a tricky one, works connected to tv but not otherwise. Check the voltage from battery, may be to low to get it to work.
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:10 PM   #23
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I haven't posted for a few days but have been using the multi-meter to test things like continuity (fuses to insure they really are okay- one suggestion; new and cleaned battery cable ends, new buss fuses, etc.) and such. Getting familiar with grounds and checking what I've done prior. Nothing seemed to be working. Then, the spirit of Ohms got involved - last night, showing the Airstream to friends (and Air Forums members from Georgia) who were visiting. We also gave them a tour of the trailer. It was after dinner (thus dark, needing light) and also after discussing the background related above. So we showed them through the trailer, turning on the lights and showing the difference between warm white LEDs and white-white LEDs and the replacements in the overhead and such.

"And here, in the overhead control panel," I related as I lifted the tambour door, "is where most of the problem is..." and pushed the water pump - and it cycled! The panel lights worked, so did the meters, and the jack. It's all "fixed."

Well, not so fast. Obviously, we moved "something" that caused the original ssue and maybe moved it back trying to fix it, or in turning switches. I'm still thinking its a grounding issue and will check some more. Or it may be in one of those light switches, too.

But, it is working today! (I expect to see an English "Lucas" sticker somewhere!)

I'll keep you posted... but I knew those of you who have contributed so much to my newfound electrical knowledge would want to know - and that you all would appreciate how it all just seemed to "fix itself."

Thank you - all of you - for responding, thinking it through with me, and helping me to learn more about the systems of our fine Airstream!

CHEERS to you all!

Dave
ps - if the problem resurfaces and I find the real culprit, I'll update!
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:08 AM   #24
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Dave,
Chicken's claw & white fur! Boogie boogie!

Your on it.

Happy trails.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:48 PM   #25
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Dave,
Chicken's claw & white fur! Boogie boogie!

Your on it.

Happy trails.
Maybe somethin' got in there! (or back out!)
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:14 AM   #26
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What ...still no smiley face and flower! The force be with you and don't forget to pay ohm-age!
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