Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-31-2009, 11:59 AM   #1
Rivet Master
Melody Ranch's Avatar

1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,931
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
Building a new electrical system...

I could use some input here....
I am building an electrical system from the ground up in my '47 Curtis Wright. Nothing fancy, but functional. I have the basic wire runs in and am going to use a Marinco power plug from the shore power. I have a 15 fuse position panel that surface mounts...where I can get at it and see it when need be. I want to get a similar AC circuit breaker panel to mount beside it. Any suggestions here? How many breakers, what size, etc.? GFCI out side and at the sink, what ever you have learned from experience.

Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2009, 03:09 PM   #2
Rivet Master
tphan's Avatar
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont , Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
Seems like 20 amp breakers would work, maybe one for GFI circuit, another for regular outlets, maybe another for furnace/fridge. Maybe look at a newer AS, see what they are coming with these days. Home Depot should have small panels.

tphan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2009, 05:30 PM   #3
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
vinstream's Avatar
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 623
Images: 2
Question's? For you to consider...

Are you "only" going to use shore power?
What are you thinking for 12 volt?
Are you going to use an inverter?
What size AC are you running some need 30 amp?

I would take the time NOW to map out every electrical need and desire you want... research every item you are going to wire into the over all system and lay it out in a "mock up" form .... It is very hard to rewire these trailers after interior skin and parts are put back in!

I guess what I am trying to say is plan well ahead at this stage! Your trailer's age really had very little in the way of electrical systems so you are in many ways reinventing the wheel! So you need to kinda work backwards to get the best results!

Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
vinstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2009, 07:36 PM   #4
Rivet Master
Melody Ranch's Avatar

1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,931
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
plan was made

Initially the plan is...all 12 volt lighting with individual switching. One 12 v light switch at the door for the overhead. AC outlets at all four corners at floor level and one high on the side walls each side as original. One at each end, front and rear, on the counters.....front for the microwave type requirement. A 12 v access at both ends of the interior too. Separate 120 AC plugs for the converter and the fridge under the counter. A wiring harness laid in for an AC...should one ever be put in on the roof.
I had planned on a 30 amp main CB and a 20 amp for the AC and microwave outlets. Sound OK? What size for the other outlets? Is there a Blue Sea type box that will cover these requirements? Something else same physical size? Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	47 Curtis wiring progress.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	77724  
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2009, 09:00 PM   #5
3 Rivet Member
reggiemon's Avatar
1959 18' "Footer"
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 104
Thumbs up Ac/dc

Hi Robin,
I installed a DC system in my trailer using Prodressive Dynamics PD6000 DC panel along with a PD9200 converter last year. I also upgraded the AC electrical system with a Marinco 30 amp input fixture (get this at Wholesale Marine) & new wiring & new Square D AC curcuit box w/breakers.
If I had it to do over again I would go with the PD4300 power center which has everything in 1 unit. (it was not available when I purchased)
Or at least the PD5000 which has the DC & AC distributation in 1 unit.
1959 "Globester"
reggiemon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 06:06 AM   #6
4 Rivet Member
1956Safari's Avatar
1956 22' Safari
Ossining , New York
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 272
Images: 16
You may also want to consider a switch at the door that will kill everything. I'm planning on doing this using a relay. Uwe of Area 63 discusses how he achieved that here on his blog: Wiring, continued
1956Safari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 08:41 AM   #7
Rivet Master
Zeppelinium's Avatar

1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,881
Send a message via Skype™ to Zeppelinium
Nicely done insulation (post #4)! Can't wait to hear how that works out, since you're in hot country, which is the kind of temperatures where I have the most trouble--a sunny day in the summer in Utah is a challenge.

By the way, I take the simple approach to electrics. I use a small 4-breaker box from HD (like $20) for 110V, with one breaker as the mains, which is GFCI, then one for the A/C and the other two for two general circuits. For 12V, I use an 8-position automotive fuze panel ($17) that can handle 40 amps and I fuze for that. (the advantage of this setup is that the fuzes are easy to pull and a fuze can act as a battery switch--if it's in a handy location you can pull it and guarantee that the battery won't get run down.) These fuze blocks have two rows, so I put the batteries, converter, and tow vehicle charge line on one side and the 4 12V trailer circuits on the other. I don't use an inverter, so my biggest 12V load is the water pump at about 7 amps. Lots of members are under the false impression that they have to use starter wire size cables for the batteries. Last time I looked, I don't have a starter motor in any of my trailers . Even #8 wire is mostly overkill--you'll never have those kinds of currents except for the first few seconds of recharging a completely dead battery. At that point the 40 amp fuzes let you know you've got a problem. Even my tow vehicle (F-250) is factory fuzed to deliver only 25 amps of charging current, which sort of sets the standard, IMHO.

The only benefit of a converter bigger than 45 amps is that it would provide a faster recharge on the batteries. If you're really a boondocker and operate a fair amount of time off your battery(ies), your max draw will be around 10-12 amps. Even a "big" automotive-style marine battery will only have a capacity of 115 amp-hrs, and you can only use 80% of that without damaging the battery. So if you want to boondock for 4-5 days, you have to plan your 12V use to average 5 amps or so for about 4 hours a day. One of the old vent light fixtures, with 6 bulbs, was a real battery killer all by itself!

Zeppelinium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 09:25 AM   #8
doorgunner's Avatar
1986 32' Excella
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Citrus Heights , California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,105
Images: 35
I installed a Xantrex 60 amp in my excella. A wire size table was included.

for the 40 amp model-8AWG max 2 way length 20 feet.

for the 60 amp model-6AWG max 2 way length 20 feet

as my batts are 2 feet from the charger I'm sure I can go down a size in wire. but I have not an electrical engineering degree


Proud Appellation American

Vine View Heights is now closed.

YETI ( 65 Quart )

IGLOO (Ice Cube, 50 Quart )
doorgunner is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
confusion with my electrical system funkill Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 15 09-20-2008 07:16 PM
electrical system crowldawg Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 6 09-27-2007 09:36 AM
Building a septic system GolfStream Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 21 03-26-2007 07:39 AM
'53 Cruiser Electrical System amron Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 02-14-2006 12:49 PM
electrical system diagram duckrunner Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 3 10-22-2003 07:53 PM

Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.