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Old 07-10-2015, 03:28 PM   #15
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Hi, I have had the blown fuse problem off and on. I have re-indexed my motor a few times. I believe the last few fuses blew because of weak batteries. I now have new batteries. But for situations like this, I bought a circuit breaker to replace the fuse. So far, so good.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:55 PM   #16
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Toggling too quickly between up and down or vice versa can blow the inline fuse. BTW, you might want to try to stay with the 20 amp fuse if that's what the specs call for.
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:27 PM   #17
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Uh Oh!!!!

I replaced my jack with an Atwood. I didn't know about indexing it. I should go online to learn procedure, if there is one for mine.

Mine just stopped working too. The fuse was not blown but it was corroded. It was the original fuse which was 30 amp 32 volts.

So now I want to replace the " weather proof " inline fuse holder. It seems like shrink tubing and tape would defeat the purpose of having an accessible fuse holder.

Mine jack came with a back up crank that is easy to operate.
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skater View Post
...or his jack is indexed incorrectly.
Yes indexing can be an issue but one would hope that any factory assembled jack would be assembled correctly. Indexing should only come into play when replacing the motor or the post assembly to ensure they are matched and the limit switches will function before the jack bottoms or tops out.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post

So now I want to replace the " weather proof " inline fuse holder. It seems like shrink tubing and tape would defeat the purpose of having an accessible fuse holder.
.
Suppose you are referring to my post. I did not tape the already water/weather proof inline fuse holder. I put the shrink wrap and tape where the wires were getting pinched between the frame and gas box. This morning I followed the suggestion to add washers under the mounting bracket. It seemed to make the box loose fitting and sloppy. Not happy with the result so I removed them. As soon as the temp dips below 90 I am going to mess with it some more. Got to be a better way than it comes from the factory. Projects and fiddling never ends.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:40 PM   #20
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hhendrix; correct, it is a 3/8 drive

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Old 07-10-2015, 06:28 PM   #21
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Suppose you are referring to my post. I did not tape the already water/weather proof inline fuse holder. I put the shrink wrap and tape where the wires were getting pinched between the frame and gas box. This morning I followed the suggestion to add washers under the mounting bracket. It seemed to make the box loose fitting and sloppy. Not happy with the result so I removed them. As soon as the temp dips below 90 I am going to mess with it some more. Got to be a better way than it comes from the factory. Projects and fiddling never ends.

Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:33 PM   #22
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Awchief….I was just thinking out loud

Water is getting in my fuse holder.

But I can seal two of the three places where water can get in ( where the wire goes in and out of the fuse holder )I am thinking about silicone.

And I will probably put some tape around holder itself. Tape comes off, and I am hoping not to have a fuse problem for at least a few years.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:49 PM   #23
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This is the fuse holder I use. Left over from my blue water sailing days.

http://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Mari...ds=Fuse+holder
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.

Sounds like a good plan. Will try it. Thanks
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.
Hi, picture; I see one of my tie wraps broke, so I will replace it. been there for several years.
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:17 PM   #26
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The standard Airsteam jack has a limit switch package that mounts on the gears, and it normally stops the motor up or down. However the limit switches are just micro switches and after years of service the plastic gets brittle and they fail if used too often. I had to replace both on my '96. Also if you lift the head to manually run the jack, you may then be out of sync when you put it back after electrrical repairs. You need to run the jack all the way up while the trailer is supported or hooked up, then run it down maybe a turn or two. Now you have to run the motor in the correct direction to hit the upper limit switch. Then remount the electric motor head on the jack. Just did all this about a month ago.
If you want to spend $60 you can purchase the complete limit switch package. I replaced the individual limit switches with on-line purchase for $16.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:33 AM   #27
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After my EOM jack head self destructed I bought and installed a Barker Deluxe Super Jack Hi-Power 3500. First time I tried to use it the fuse blew. After blowing a second fuse I gave Barker a call. Explained my issue and the CS Tech thought it might be the up/down switch. He overnighted a new switch. When I opened the package it contained not only that switch but a light switch, two micro limit switches, light bulb, 3 fuses and two nylon gears. Basically everything needed to rebuilt except the motor. There was a note included that said if the enclosed parts did not help give him a call and he would send me a complete new head/motor unit. That is what I call outstanding customer service. Turns out none of the parts were the problem, it was the fuse holder. There was a bad solder joint on one of the wires that was causing the blown fuses. Easily replaced the fuse holder and no more problem. I could of sent the whole jack back to Amazon or Barker for a replacement but decided to try a fix myself. Turned out for once that was the correct way to go.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:20 AM   #28
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I used a rat tail, round file and enlarged the cutout at the base of the tank cover. The 7 pin cable was pinched up along with the jack wire. No more problem.


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