Having an older coach and doing a frame off I am at the same point. I have the goal of looking just like it did in 1959
so all the add ons except lighting will have to be hidden. While I like gadgets I'm not so sure I am worried about things like tank monitors and the latest tech as a result.
You need to plan the location of various items first. Heater type and location, Reefer location, Water tanks and style of water system (tank location may conflict with battery locations), 120 and 12v panel locations, switch locations, battery location, charger and inverter locations and the needs of each, TV if your so inclined and a antenna .
The first challenge is battery(ies) location. My coach use a narrow battery mounted in a box on the front wall. Somebody later modified it to accept a larger battery of the style we use today. It looks like CRAP! Because of the short narrow A-frame I cannot see where it will be possible to put convectional battery on the A-Frame, like the current units have and still have room for the propane tanks. This means I will need to relocate my battery. I think you are going to have the same issue.
So I think your first decision is where to put the battery or Batteries and Right off the bat let me tell you behind the axle is a bad idea. These coaches respond badly to excessive weight at the rear. Keep it as light as possible back there. Your battery location would be best near center side to side or at least on or between the frame rails. Having a battery in the forward corners out on the outriggers is probably not a good place.
In my coach, as much as I hate to loose any storage space since there will be two adults and two children, I think the only logical location for a battery is under the center of the gaucho loosing the center drawer. Its not quite tall enough for the battery and I want it in a box to seal it from the interior and vent it to the exterior. I will find or build a box and sink it into the floor large enough for two conventional deep cycles. This is what I am considering for a battery box. http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Co...ct/View/133301
It is already sealed and with a couple cross braces on the bottom it should work.
If I need to access the batteries I will have to remove the cushions and deck under them. Its best to have the charger and inverter close to the batteries to limit how much heavy gage cable is needed to joint them so my 12v system including the Intelecharger and inverter will be located there and Circuit breakers will be accessible by popping out the panel that the old drawer front will become. I will probably use a boat 12v panel Something like this. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...118&storeNum=9
The 110 Distribution box is not as critical because you are not dealing with where to put 100lb of batteries the charger and inverter. My stock location was on the rear wall and about 20 inches from the shore power connection. It will stay there.
You coach is probably like mine if it had a 12 system. There was various transformers spread around the coach and City and 12v switches. With a central unit like a Intelecharger those will need to be removed and something installed to cover the holes. I may just leave the switches for visual.
Now I am not so sure I agree with the choice Don has made for wiring. I have seen a piece of 20 cage sheet cut a slot into a piece of 12gage before. I think the grommets are still the best choice since it should remove any movement where it passes through a hole. Between the insulation and the stiffness of the wire there should e minimal movement in the walls. It worked for 40 years in my coach already. I have not found a single place where there has been a problem its a proven system.
I'm going with conventional Romex on my 110 as a result and taping my 12v runs to it when possible. For grommets I am using a plastic Ferrel style because I can get more wires though it with a minimal hole through the rib. If any space is left in the hole I will pack it with something to prevent movement within the hole. No movement means no wear