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Old 12-21-2012, 10:11 AM   #15
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Great Info guys!

Like I said, I have a few tools, and my pet hate is those multi crimper tools, with the stripper built in... I pull my hair out because they have some functional part of the tool below the pivot point, so you have to open the tool handles(a 2 handed job), then thread the handles thru the wire if it is in place and then crimp... then open the handle and thread them back out...

Sounds like I will be investing in a ratchet style crimper, or two!

What do you guys suggest for terminals?
I always liked those brass looking type like these, with the seperate slide over covers..


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Old 12-21-2012, 10:13 AM   #16
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #17
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for butt splices, we've been liking these for the last few years -

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 22-18, 15/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9002-15 at The Home Depot

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 16-14, 12/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9003-12 at The Home Depot

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 12-10, 10/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9004-10 at The Home Depot

if you're not game for a soldering gun or iron and heat shrink tubing (our second choice to the above), then,

for all other insulated and non-insulated crimping type connectors, a ratcheting type tool, as mentioned in some of the precious posts, gives you very good performance, and consistency from use to use, imho.

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Old 12-21-2012, 09:26 PM   #18
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The quality of the connectors themselves is, in general, far less a problem than the quality of the crimping tool. In theory a properly crimped connection is gas tight and not susceptible to corrosion. I don't rely on that though, and put heat shrink over the connector if the connection will be located in an area exposed to weather or road spray.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:06 AM   #19

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Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I used to do a lot more solder and shrink wrap but have found that, for 12v automotive and rv wiring, the ratchet crimpers do a better job because the connection is just as reliable electrically and requires less space because it doesn't make the wire rigid.

I have this tool from Del City, which is only $30 and works great, even in tight places:

Open Barrel Terminal Ratchet Crimp Tool


'cept I use the T&B crimper....It's either Mac or Snap-on,(sorry Bob), knuckle busters have hard head's.

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Old 01-31-2013, 09:26 PM   #20
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Any thoughts on this kit?

S & G Tool Aid , 18960 Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post

Hi, this looks like a pretty good kit and S&G make some good tools. But in my opinion, it's too much. There are usually, only, three size connectors. [RED, YELLOW, and BLUE] So at most you would only need two, three crimp jaws; Three for insulated and three for non-insulated. It's kind-of like screw drivers, you get twenty in a set, but almost always only use two of them. [#2 Phillips & #2 straight/or flat blade]

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Old 02-01-2013, 12:44 AM   #22
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Years ago, when building wire harnesses for military gear, we used a lot of Amp and Canon connectors, and crimped pins and sockets. For crimp tools, we used mostly Amphenol hand crimpers, crimping machines and dies. However, please note that these tools are mil-spec, heavy duty and expensive; and they may be gross overkill for most DIY projects. In most cases, 3M products are excellent for home/auto use; and other crimped terminals and hand tools from Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. are fine for most applications.

Solder connections can fail (melt) in high current terminations, so those were mainly used in connectors that carried electronic signals. For power supplies and high current applications, crimped terminals were always used; because they won't melt if and when the termination heats up, and they provide a lot of mechanical strength. In fact, we had one coax connector that was crimped on and was spec'd at 50 pound pull strength. The computer terminal it was connected to only weighed 25 pounds, so you could actually lift the entire terminal by the coax cable, and it wouldn't pull out.

If necessary, you can weatherproof a crimped termination (AFTER the terminal, pin or socket is crimped in place) by slipping on some heat-shrink tubing, filling it with RTV and shrinking it in place. This will keep water out and prevent corrosion. Of course, don't do this to any connector that you ever want to disconnect at some later date, as this is permanent and will have to be cut off for repairs.
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Old 02-01-2013, 05:59 AM   #23
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I like the non-rachet one with the long handles +1 Robert. I have something similar out here at NASA and I like them over any other kind.


Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, while I was in the tool business, [Mac Tools] the professional automotive electricians chose Thomas & Betts crimpers I have and use two different ones. One is for insulated connectors and the other is for bare metal connectors. Doing automotive electrical repairs at new car dealers, I have used several different types and brands; None of them compare with a Thomas & Betts crimper. Perfect crimp every time. Other brands can come loose or over crimp and break the wires.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:27 AM   #24
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helpful thread, thanks !!
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:07 AM   #25
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Any time I can do it, I much prefer to use soldered connections and shrink tube rather than using spade connectors - i just seem to have way less trouble with them.
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:58 PM   #26
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Got it today..

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:10 AM   #27
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This looks like a really nice ratcheting crimper with multiple dies!

Give us a review on them once you've gotten to use them some.

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:41 PM   #28
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Will do
Interestingly... they do HT wires too!

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