Battery failure

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

"Bad batteries" search results: https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...com&gws_rd=ssl

Four thousand seven hundred and twenty of them!

. . . yet the OP [with one post total] has not replied in a week!



. . . and still everyone keeps posting back and forth . . .

Hi

Ok, to check charging voltage head over to your local big box store and get a multimeter. Yes, Fluke is better and more expensive than the $20 one. Both will get this job done. If you already have a multimeter .. good for you.

First work out where your converter / charger is and where the batteries are located. With nothing plugged in and no loads turned on in the trailer check the battery voltage with the multimeter. Now look at whatever (if any) voltage reading gizmo(s) you have in the trailer / RV. If they read the same as the multimeter, you are doing fine. If they are off a bit, make a note of the "offset".

Now plug in shore power. Current is flowing in this case so voltages will be different at various locations in the rig. Trying to work out offsets in this case is a bit tough. Go back and look at the voltage on the battery. It should be higher than it was when shore power was unplugged. If it's not, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed. Check the voltage on the converter, if it's not higher than the battery voltage, it's got a problem. ( like the breaker is tripped ...). Work from there.

For real fun and excitement, keep watching the multimeter for a couple hours as the battery charges. It should make it above 13V fairly quickly (like under an hour). It should get above 13.5V eventually ( a couple hours at most). If it's an aftermarket converter, it will get up above 14V (but not over 15) for a while.

So .... hopefully that answers the question ...

Back to our usual fun of throwing stuff at each other ....

Bob

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Ok, to check charging voltage head over to your local big box store and get a multimeter. Yes, Fluke is better and more expensive than the $20 one. Both will get this job done. If you already have a multimeter .. good for you.

First work out where your converter / charger is and where the batteries are located. With nothing plugged in and no loads turned on in the trailer check the battery voltage with the multimeter. Now look at whatever (if any) voltage reading gizmo(s) you have in the trailer / RV. If they read the same as the multimeter, you are doing fine. If they are off a bit, make a note of the "offset".

Now plug in shore power. Current is flowing in this case so voltages will be different at various locations in the rig. Trying to work out offsets in this case is a bit tough. Go back and look at the voltage on the battery. It should be higher than it was when shore power was unplugged. If it's not, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed. Check the voltage on the converter, if it's not higher than the battery voltage, it's got a problem. ( like the breaker is tripped ...). Work from there.

For real fun and excitement, keep watching the multimeter for a couple hours as the battery charges. It should make it above 13V fairly quickly (like under an hour). It should get above 13.5V eventually ( a couple hours at most). If it's an aftermarket converter, it will get up above 14V (but not over 15) for a while.

So .... hopefully that answers the question ...

Back to our usual fun of throwing stuff at each other ....

Bob

And after all that, buy yourself a new 4 stage converter from bestconverters.com or some place else, a new set of batteries, assuming yours are toast, and be done with it! Wasting too much time over-engineering and trouble shooting...should be camping in your AS...right?

[ROBERT CROSS]

^
👍

....solving a problem you didn't know you had in a way you don't understand.🤓 😂 🤓

Bob
🇺🇸

[OTRA15]

. . . and around the circle we go again!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n77y2acO_dw

[NancyJane]

Many thanks to all who gave me advice. I bought two new wet cell batteries and will follow gypsydad's advice:
1) check/maintain the battery water level; check every month or so at least to be sure or install an auto- fill unit. $$
2) don't leave your batteries connected all the time; install a manual disconnect to avoid any parasitic draw from the AS when not in use.
3) install a separate battery monitor gauge to know exact status of your battery.

I have installed a battery monitor gauge which displays on the outside of the battery box. Will check the fluid levels on the first of each month.

How does a manual disconnect work? The original converter appears to being working correctly.

[marter]

First, welcome to the forum. Lots of good information here. Just takes a little filtering.

As far as a battery disconnect, there are several good threads here on installing one. Most people use a Blue Sea switch, but you will need a couple new short cables and would typically replace your current battery cable connectors with ring terminals, which requires a crimper.

The alternative which many use is to disconnect all cables from the negative terminals on your batteries, which is what I do. Much simpler, but takes a little more effort each time you store the trailer.

Good luck, and have fun.

Happy trails,
Mike

[KJJorgen]

#1. Your batteries are shot and need to be replaced. As others mentioned, 3-4 years is about normal, unless ultrapreservatioj techniques used--these cost more than batteries.

#2. Most tow vehicle charges are less than 13 volts, which amounts to a trickle charge, and therefore will not charge the batteries in a few hours. More like 20-24 hours of towing.

#3 Your dry batteries may have contributed to the battery failure, but again, 4 years is pretty good. It is good to check the fluid level every month or so, especially in weather when it is warm--over 80 degrees F. which is where charging can certainly affect fluid loss.

#4 Have your batteries ever gone dead before? If so, this is the worst thing that can happen to lead acid batteries. This can certainly excelerate battery failure.

#5 My suggestion is to store your trailer with the battery in "store" mode, not hooked up to electricity. Once a month, take out of store mode, plug in, and charge for 48 hours. Be sure to take out of "store" mode while charging or else your battery is disconnected from the converter, and it will not charge. The very small drain from the propane alarm detecter will not drain your batteries in a month. If you are in a cold weather climate, take your batteries out and store them in a warmer place for the winter--perhaps using a trickle charger for a few days each month.

[NancyJane]

The following detailed report is from my buddy Mark who is helping me repair and understand my Bambi:

We bought 2 new 24 type batteries from Walmart, $70 each approx. I also fitted a small $12 ebay LED voltmeter to the battery box. Full marks whoever suggested that one.

The new batteries had stickers showing they were 4 months old, so I gave the batteries a boost charge before installing. Installed them and got 12.5 v on the LED. No 110v hook up at this point. I used a pretty good voltmeter across the batteries and got 12.49 v so I'm happy with the $12, made in China, ebay LED voltmeter on the battery box.

Then I hooked up 110v. Voltage rose to 13.5 and then reached a stable 13.7. No high 14 upwards voltage. Held it for several hours. Disconnected 110v and battery voltage dropped to 12.5 then over a period decayed to 12.2. Reconnected 110v and 13.7 was established fairly quickly. It was held on 110v for probably 30 hours and 13.7/8 was all the LED showed. To re-cap, the original batteries were bone dry and only good for 8v, and I was half expecting to see 14.5 v upwards from the charging circuit, but it didn't happen. I4 point something could explain the batteries being overcharged and the loss of electrolyte. If anything above 14.4 had been seen I would be in the market for a new converter. Today I disconnected the 110v and batteries showed 12.8 v. I checked there was nothing left on inside, and after 8 hours there is still 12.8 v showing. They are better now than when installed.

So my synopsis and hope Y'alls are in violent agreement. (note: British people don’t understand the Texas y’all.

1/ fit a voltmeter. Even a $12 ebay item does the job. Can't thank the person who suggested it enough.

2/ batteries showing 12.5 -12.2 when first installed, then showing 12.8 is just part of the new battery improvement. No cause for concern.

3/ the original charging system in the Bambi is somewhere between agricultural and obsolete, but in this case, provided the batteries are given a rest from the 110 v charging, electrolyte levels are checked, voltage is checked, there is no compelling reason to fix something that ain't broke and install one of the fancy new 3 or 4 stage converters.

4/ given the somewhat rudimentary charging system, and its possible ability to distress the batteries, I'm in a better place with conventional batteries I can check and top up than the sealed items.

Great service you guys provide.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by NancyJane

. . .
3/ the original charging system in the Bambi is somewhere between agricultural and obsolete, but in this case, provided the batteries are given a rest from the 110 v charging, electrolyte levels are checked, voltage is checked, there is no compelling reason to fix something that ain't broke and install one of the fancy new 3 or 4 stage converters.
. . .

Thanks for the detailed report. You are learning quickly, which will serve you well for years to come!

The quote above is spot-on IMO, and is exactly what we did with our 25' AS back in the 90's, and currently do with our FC20. Both were/are plugged in behind the house/shop, where we could monitor charging, voltage, and water levels. And our batteries have lasted for many years.

As you said, if it ain't broken . . .

Happy trails,

Peter

PS -- This Battery School resource is handy to have for general knowledge: http://www.batteriesnorthwest.com/batteryschool.cfm

[farafield]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

PS -- This Battery School resource is handy to have for general knowledge: http://www.batteriesnorthwest.com/batteryschool.cfm

Thank you!!! This is exactly what some of us need! Now maybe I can understand what's going on here and what I need to do.

Kim

[OTRA15]

Quite welcome, Kim! Yes, it can be overwhelming at times.

Also FYI, the new search function above in the blue box -- powered by Google to search only this site -- works great! After the results pop up, you can adjust the search terms in the Google window, and generally find lots of info, but manageable IMO, as opposed to wading through the threads here.

For instance "bad batteries" -- 4600 results +/- : https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...com&gws_rd=ssl

"bad batteries lot rot" -- only 349 results: https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...=airforums.com

From a laptop or desktop, the searching can go really quickly, especially if one is facile at saving favorites and bookmarks in a good browser like Firefox IMO.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Nice signature you have! Will post a new song on the OTRA I music thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...-i-143331.html

[farafield]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Quite welcome, Kim! Yes, it can be overwhelming at times.

Also FYI, the new search function above in the blue box -- powered by Google to search only this site -- works great! After the results pop up, you can adjust the search terms in the Google window, and generally find lots of info, but manageable IMO, as opposed to wading through the threads here.

For instance "bad batteries" -- 4600 results +/- : https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...com&gws_rd=ssl

"bad batteries lot rot" -- only 349 results: https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...=airforums.com

From a laptop or desktop, the searching can go really quickly, especially if one is facile at saving favorites and bookmarks in a good browser like Firefox IMO.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Nice signature you have! Will post a new song on the OTRA I music thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...-i-143331.html

Thanks Peter! I knew about the search function but I have a hard time finding answers that address my exact set-up and I know too little to fill in the blanks. But it takes time and gradually I'll get there. For the time being, I have power! That'll do.

I love your music thread! You've been working on that for a while! Thanks for adding the Eagles, (don't forget that Jackson Browne covered TIE too hint hint!).

I am thinking about trying to get a full picture of my set-up with several questions answered and offering a jug of 100% pure and natural VT maple syrup to one of the responders (names go into a hat). What do you think?

[gypsydad]

Been traveling, so missed your reply; thanks for the "hey". We are heading back to Austin, currently somewhere in Utah, after Yellowstone and Tetons...ASing is great when everything works!

I agree with most of "ya'alls" posting of "help". My only comment on the advise so far is, if your going to use your AS a "lot"; I would consider strongly replacing the converter along with the disconnect switch. you can still use all the electrical inside when the disconnect is in "off". I disconnect my batteries in Austin when I store in cold weather, but leave the Boondocker multi-stage connected so I can run my propane heater if needed, overnight when we get that "occasional cooool" 20-25 degrees weather for a few nights.. When charging, I do see 14+ voltage in the beginning and then it gets down to 13.4 typically... As many think, if it aint broken,etc....but you don't want to chance your next trip. The multistage converter to me, was a good investment at <$180. Call bestconverter and talk with Randy...my thinking..and I've never met Randy!