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Old 01-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #15
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I keep my trailer pluged into a 120 vac source all the time. I did this after my batteries went flat and would not recharge. No more problems since.
FYI - My trailer has an external battery box. It filled up with rain water once and killed the batteries. I drilled a couple of drain holes in the bottom and haven't had anymore trouble.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:19 AM   #16
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I've forgotten all about having an LPG leak monitor, consequently, it doesn't drain the batteries at all.

Bob
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:56 AM   #17
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The propane detector is not the only source of phantom loads. On ours, the subwoofer is always on; I installed a switch and turned it off. If you leave the tank and battery monitor on, that will draw some current. If you forget to turn off the antenna booster, that will draw more current.

Since batteries discharge over time anyway, the advice to put them on a charger regularly is the best advice.

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Old 01-26-2013, 04:56 PM   #18
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Dumb question for the OP… When your battery isolator is switched off, will the battery still charge from shore power? If so, then your converter, or inverter/charger, or whatever, bypasses the battery isolator.

I consider it a dumb question becasue it's pretty obvious that Airstream trailers aren't wired the same as Airstream motorhomes. What I'm thinking of might not apply to you, but if it does…

I ask because if you have an inverter/charger to power your AC appliances from your house batteries while boondocking, you may have parasitic drains on the AC side. I found that out the hard way with my Interstate. With my DC side switched completely off and the inverter switched to "invert", I still have 120vAC power to my televisions, microwave, and 12vDC/120vAC refrigerator. I have to be sure when I place my unit into storage that I switch the battery isolator to off, and switch the inverter/charger to either "off" or "charge only."
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:27 PM   #19
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We are solving the problem tomorrow. I am putting a 150 watt solar panel on top, with a 30 amp internal controller. We went with the Zamp unit.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #20
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A follow up. I picked up the trailer yesterday, after having the solar panel installed. Out of curiosity, I wanted to see the installation of the panel and how the wiring was brought into the interior. What I saw, I didn't like!

The service techs routed the cable down the back side of the refrigerator, which is OK. What was not OK was the rough hole that was cut, with the wiring chafing against it. It was also chafing on a metal fin between the refrigerator and the AC unit.

I sent photos to the service manager, and will be taking it in tomorrow to have grommets and clamps installed to keep things from chafing.

I suspect that many Airstreams may have their solar panels installed in a similar manner. You may want to check yours. If the positive lead from the panel chafed through and made chassis ground, it might fry your panel. There is supposed to be a fuse between the panel and controller, but if it shorts above the fuse, it is a moot point.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drathaar View Post
(snip)

If the positive lead from the panel chafed through and made chassis ground, it might fry your panel. There is supposed to be a fuse between the panel and controller, but if it shorts above the fuse, it is a moot point.
Actually you can dead short a solar panel positive to negative terminals with no problems at all. The current they generate is self limiting and cannot rise above the normal output of the panel even in a dead short situation. They are not like a battery which a short generates large extra current flow.

I am not saying that the wiring rubbing against a fin on the refrigerator is good, but a short on the wire between the panels and the charge controller will do no harm to the panels.

Been there, done that a whole lot of times. In fact I test the output of solar panels by dead shorting them through an ammeter to see their max current output.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #22
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Actually you can dead short a solar panel positive to negative terminals with no problems at all. The current they generate is self limiting and cannot rise above the normal output of the panel even in a dead short situation. They are not like a battery which a short generates large extra current flow.

I am not saying that the wiring rubbing against a fin on the refrigerator is good, but a short on the wire between the panels and the charge controller will do no harm to the panels.

Been there, done that a whole lot of times. In fact I test the output of solar panels by dead shorting them through an ammeter to see their max current output.
Thanks, that's good to know. This is my first experience with solar.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:54 PM   #23
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A quick hour at the dealer, and all seems well. I also had them run a bead of sealant at the joint where the bumper compartment meets the body. There was leakage and floor rot reported on earlier FB models, but is purported to be corrected on my year. Better safe than sorry.

It's nice to have the batteries topped at all times.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:31 PM   #24
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Battery testing...

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Originally Posted by wayneskid View Post
Drathaar, if you've run your batts flat, twice, they are now seriously and permanently compromised and will no longer have their rated Ah capacity.
this has happened to me also.
how can i verify if my (almost new) batteries are shot ?
thanks-in-advance.
Rob.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:47 PM   #25
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I just posted my method this morning.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ry-102788.html
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:04 PM   #26
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Jammer's method is a good one, but, I just use a hydrometer which does a fairly good job. They are often sold as "battery tester". It'll tell you how good or bad each cell is. If you go boondocking and find the batteries are running down much faster than normally, that's a clue.

I never ran the OEM batteries flat, but I did run them down pretty far several times (better than freezing) using the furnace, and they lasted 3 years. You never know what happened to them at the dealer—they could have run them down many times. People have reported more than once they bought a "new" trailer and the batteries died several months later.

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Old 03-27-2013, 06:31 PM   #27
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Since I do not have access to external power where we store our AS, I installed a cutoff switch at the batteries to eliminate any parasitic draw. It has made a big difference.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:22 AM   #28
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So the electronic battery cutoff switch in my 2008 Classic 25FB doesn't cut off this parasitic power loss from the LP detector or refrigerator circuits, monitor panel and TV booster? I should still install a manual battery disconnect?

Kelvin
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