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Old 01-14-2017, 09:43 AM   #1
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2015 28' Flying Cloud
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Battery Drain - Can it be stopped?

I have a 2015 Flying Cloud 28. I live in New England and am storing the trailer in my yard for the Winter. This Fall I topped off the batteries and charged them and left the batteries hooked up in the trailer. While the trailer is in storage for the Winter, my main concern was to make sure that the batteries wouldn't drain. So I disconnected the propane detector as well as the subwoofer for the stereo system.

However, despite disconnecting these accessories and switching the batteries to "storage", there is still some battery drain. Every two weeks, I've been plugging the trailer overnight into 110 power and in the morning the batteries charge will read 13 volts. After the batteries are charged, I disconnect the power cord. Two weeks later, the battery charge indicator will read 12 volts.

Sorry for the lengthy forward, but this is my question, how can I curtail the draining of the batteries while the trailer is being stored? Last year I took the batteries out of the trailer and frankly, it was a lot of work putting them back in and hooking them up again. I'm also curious as to what could still be draining the batteries. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:08 AM   #2
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How about leaving the batteries in but disconnect the negative cable. That should prevent any discharge. Are you sure both of the batteries are good? Maybe one is drawing the other one down. After removing the negative cable, come back in 2 weeks and check each battery again.
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:41 AM   #3
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I put a set of those quick disconnect Knob battery connectors on the batteries - a quick turn of the knob and the batteries are disconnected although still in the battery compartments.

They only cost a few $ from Harbor Freight.

I do however still remove the batteries and bring them home when our trailer is going to be in teh storage yard unused for long periods - I put a battery tender on them at home from time to time, although they are AGM batteries and are supposed to self discharge very slowly so maybe don't really need it.


I also use the quick disconnect knobs when we are camping and on shore power if we will be there more than a couple of days so as not to cook the batteries - for now I still have the original "not very smart" charger in the trailer!


Brian.
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:41 AM   #4
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Test batteries with hydrometer to check for bad cells. I agree with Rich above. Also you can buy a true battery disconnect, or just disconnect the negative as he states. Check hitch jack if it has light and make sure it's not on.


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Old 01-15-2017, 12:27 PM   #5
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ALL batteries self discharge. Even if you removed the batteries, over time, the voltage readings will decline. When left in the trailer, there can be many sources of parasitic drain. You've addressed the major known sources. Troubleshooting with an amp meter should help you identify other parasitic drains. I leave my RV plugged into a 110VAC, 15A outlet all winter just so I don't have to worry about missing parasitic drain sources. I do check the electrolyte level monthly and, add distilled water as needed. The Pro-Fill system makes adding water a breeze (I have a six, 6VDC battery bank in my Super-C RV).
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Old 01-15-2017, 12:55 PM   #6
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As with a couple other commenters, I simply d/c the neg terminal cable.
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:54 PM   #7
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Good advice above. Cold weather is also hard on a battery. Check the batteries for a weak cell. Even fairly new batteries can go bad. Check the manufacture date on your batteries. Mine were a year old before ever being installed in my 2016.
Like Wingeezer, I use Battery Tender. Hook it up to the battery and forget it.
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Old 01-15-2017, 04:32 PM   #8
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I appreciate everyone's responses to my question regarding battery drain. I ended up installing two green knob battery disconnects (Noco Swan Terminal Disconnect) on the negative terminals to both batteries. I will update everyone on my progress. The disconnects fit nicely in the battery compartment without the risk of shorting out or obstructing the lid from closing. Apparently, there are two grounds I needed to address. One ground is part of a wiring harness that comes from one side of the A-frame and attaches to the battery on that side and the other ground (containing a rubber boot) comes from another wiring harness on the other side of the A-frame and attaches to the other battery. My question is why two grounds and what do the separate wiring harnesses go to? I don't want to get lost in too much detail, but I'm curious to know if someone has the answer handy. Thanks. Tom
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:19 PM   #9
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I run 110V power cord and leave it plugged in when not on the road.
If the batteries are original they may have cell going bad.
Thomas
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbeck11931 View Post
I run 110V power cord and leave it plugged in when not on the road.
If the batteries are original they may have cell going bad.
Thomas
That only works well if you have upgraded the charger converter to a multi- stage unit. The original single stage unit will boil the batteries if left plugged in all the time. See the endless threads about converters in the electrical section of the forum.

Mike
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:16 AM   #11
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Doh. I kept the original batteries and converter in my 2006 and 2012 EB. Batteries lasted 5 years in each unit. I fulltime mostly with hookups. Never boiled a battery. Why?
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:33 AM   #12
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The reason is that you are using your trailer; the batteries do not just sit there and cook.

Larry
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:48 PM   #13
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When batteries are drained they will never recuperate to original
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:26 PM   #14
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Doh. I kept the original batteries and converter in my 2006 and 2012 EB. Batteries lasted 5 years in each unit. I fulltime mostly with hookups. Never boiled a battery. Why?
Guessing that you have been very diligent in checking and topping off your batteries regularly.


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