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Old 09-27-2005, 12:56 PM   #1
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Anyone pulled apart a new A/S? --2000ish--

I'm hoping to find a picture somewhere of the inside of a 2000 ish A/S that has had the interior pulled. I'm trying to figure out how the best way is to run wires in newer A/S inside the skin for rear backup cameras without having ugly wires showing. I know there are channels in the horizontal rib for wiring for the running lights, and what I'm hoping is they drop straight down the back from one of the lights. This way I could detatch a wire, and attatch a pull string, then pull the wire up from the top, pull the video cables to the belly or inside the cabin, and reattatch the lighting wires. This would then be hooked up to a wireless transmitter sending video wirelessly to the tow vehicle.... this is my plan, i really hope someone can help, I contacted A/S and they were somewhat helpful, but not able to give me enough info to make me completely happy.
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Old 09-27-2005, 01:02 PM   #2
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Do a search for CampCollector's bambi. He had it all pulled apart when he repaired the damage to the roof. You might find something useful there.
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:24 AM   #3
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there is no real way to do it unless you take the lights out and the bezels around the roof vents and windows... i say just get a wireless set up i have one and it works fine. you can get a 4 cam set up for $159.......e bay
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Old 09-30-2005, 11:26 AM   #4
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It works fine throughout the seasons? and of course it must be battery powered, what's the battery life on the camera? I am concerned about the ones made for wireless home applications being used on a vehicle in new england, the winters eat up outdoor electronics as snacks. What is the system you are using?
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:10 PM   #5
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If I were running wires front to rear in my 2003 Safari 25 SS I would fish them along the streetside floor alongside the main 110V run. Access should be easy under the front couch, under the dinette seats, through the boxed-in section under the dinette table, behind the refrigerator, through some closet and bath cabinates and into the rear storage area under the bed. I would mount the back-up camera so the backside is accessible from this area. Your layout may vary.

I suspect that fishing between the outer and inner aluminum skins would be very difficult.
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:01 PM   #6
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The idea is to eliminate running wires front to rear. As far as fishing a wire down, may be a little difficult- but it's pretty open. I have a 1968 that's gutted right now, there is only 1 horizontal rib that would be in the way. I have been working in automotive for a while, and residential also so I am quite handy with a fish-tape. The only real problem I see so far that im worried about is finding 12v that I can make a switched source...rf trigger of some sort maybe? anyways, if there was a reliable source of the product that was completely self contained, didn't kill batteries every week, and had a remote switching unit I'd jump on it... but I would prefer to install a unit for my customers that they never have to think about....ever... just hitch up and go.
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Old 12-17-2005, 03:34 PM   #7
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Talking

well for starters you will have 2 horizonal window bows one above the window and one below the window. if their is a rear locker with lights in it i would get my 12volt from that just drill stright through the end shell from the outside into the locker than hook it up in their.thats how i hooked one up for a friend.

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Old 12-17-2005, 03:54 PM   #8
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Jeepin-

I've run a cable front to rear in my 2000 19ft Bambi for my backup camera along the streetside.

The camera is a Lorex CVC6990 monochrome camera with 0.01 lux sensitivity, 12VDC power and 100ft coax cable. The camera is inside facing out of the rear window providing a good view from the bumper back bumper-height over 250 feet, and encompassing the full 12ft width of a lane.

The camera is powered from the tow vehicle and provides hard-wired video feed to a monitor in the tow vehicle, and is electrically isolated from the trailer. Wiring was accomplished by pulling the cable down along the rear edge of the side wall of the bathroom. At the floor, the wire was fished under the shower horizontally and diagonally toward the hot/cold water lines rising at the streetside forward corner of the bath. The cable was then led behind the toilet under the cowling, back behind the closet, oven, kitchen counter and the forward streetside seat. The cable then is passed into a feed-through down beside the existing cable to the external Bambi battery. From there, the cable is brought along the streetside frame, secured with tie-wraps, and terminated with the waterproof 4-circuit connector.

The cabling for the vehicle, running from the monitor to the hitch receiver, ends in the mating 4-circuit connector. With this camera, the video drive level is sufficient to not be affected by splicing in a trailer connector along the cable. I've been using mine for four years and it has worked perfectly.


Good luck.
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:37 PM   #9
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You can pull wires from back to front without going inside the walls. Search for a post I did on my backup camera and inverter istallation.
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:51 PM   #10
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I think this may be the link. Http://www.airforums.com/forum...backup+cameras
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Old 12-17-2005, 09:15 PM   #11
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Jeepin, it may already be prewired.

Look here at post 25 and 26 for more answers:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...56-post25.html
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:33 AM   #12
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IF you're good with the fish tape it's time to go video fish tape!! Attach a lipstick cam to the head end of the tape. Use heavy monofilament line on either side of the camera for steering and for pull once you fish through.
You can use the monofilament to raise the head or steer left or right. This system of control is used in burrow cameras.
Fishing is much easier when you can see where you're going and what's in the way.
The main problem I envision is in working outside a conduit. The unfinished sharp aluminum can cut all but the fish tape.
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