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Old 07-09-2012, 07:08 PM   #21
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Yeah, I have to "tilt" the trailers very slightly back and to port to have condensate drain as I desire. (When I turn off my assigned 367 Peterbilt after 14-hours, it's as if a cow on a flat rock, etc). Unlike them Yanks we also know all about cleaning condensors, adding 5-2-1 starters, and are conversant with micron readings on vacuum pumps, ha! Speak loudly at the lunch table on that subject (any vehicle A/C) and three other tables around you will step up and offer to let you use their professional quality HVAC pressure gauge set . . right then!

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Old 07-09-2012, 09:39 PM   #22
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I don't see any down side. We had two in our 34, but it really needed it. In a 27FB, it'll be situated right over your head so there will be noise. Other than that... like Klattu said, you'll be two cool!
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:32 PM   #23
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Just had this suggested...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakthorp View Post
DH and I are getting close to placing a order for a 27FB. He mentioned wanting the second air conditioner in the bedroom and I thought I read that there might be a downside to having the second unit.

We'll be contacting the dealership next week but I was wondering if someone might clear it up for me? As I understand it, the airstream will come with 30 amp service but if we add the second air conditioner, the airstream will then be outfitted with 50 amp service?

Other than the cost of adding the second unit, is there any other downside to ordering the trailer with a 2nd air conditioner?
I just added a roadside awning to my 34' AS and asked the tech his thoughts on adding another HVAC unit. I quote: Only if you plan of using it as a separate unit and NOT on the same circuit as the primary A/C -- and size the unit to the area you want cooled. I am putting a smaller unit in the 11' x 9' toy area of my AS that will draw less than 20 amps and will have a dedicated shore plug power inlet. Sometimes we have "toys" with us and some times we have friends along and need that area for sleeping and chilling out in the southwest climate. Judging from the changing weather patterns -- we will be using it all over the USA!
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanologist View Post
... Only if you plan of using it as a separate unit and NOT on the same circuit as the primary A/C -- and size the unit to the area you want cooled. I am putting a smaller unit in the 11' x 9' toy area of my AS that will draw less than 20 amps and will have a dedicated shore plug power inlet. ...!
Very good post. I added an 11,000 BTU as a second air for the bedroom in our 34'...I would have gotten a 9,000 if they made it. The 11,000 in a small area blasts out cold and cycles off pretty quick under normal circumstances...but then again, 103 degrees ain't normal circumstances...it's friggin' HOT outside
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:28 PM   #25
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Second Unit not a bad option. At one time our 31 foot International had a 13,500 and a swamp cooler (second cooler) that drew only 10a, but worked effortlessly until it broke. Parts for it were very hard to find. We replaced the hole with a fantastic fan which is great, but in high humidity, the 13,500 Carrier works but not a nice as another unit would have.
We may upgrade to a 15,500 a/c unit but would like to keep it to where we can use the generator (3500). The challenge is finding a unit that only draws 15a or less. We don't need it yet, but if we do the coast next year like this year the upgrade will be complete.
We did use our awnings all of the time and tried to park under trees to help keep the direct sunlight off the roof. It worked in keeping the Unit cool, but the ac worked as well.

Good luck, I'd do it and I'd upgrade the lines just to have that upgrade available for systems 10-15 years from now as you increase the accessories that you use.

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Old 07-17-2012, 06:56 PM   #26
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One A/C is noisy, two would be noisier. If I knew more when we bought ours, I would have tried to upgrade to a 15,000 BTU unit, but the 13,500 one works pretty well.

But we stay out of really hot places most of the time, have Reflectix on the bedroom windows (we are not exhibitionists, so we keep the blinds and curtains closed anyway) and use it also on the skylight and fans when they are not used. When temps drop enough we use the fans. They came from the factory only set to exhaust, but I rewired the dinette one for intake, so we can move air pretty fast. The awning(s) work to reduce heat, but sometimes the pads are too narrow and we don't spend much time sitting outside the trailer (we are going somewhere—don't want to leave it out in case of high winds—or just relax inside after a long day). Shade trees also help when they are there, though we have to avoid them when we are relying on solar.

50 amp spaces at RV parks usually cost more too. The use of a 30 amp and a 20 amp is clever, but if the park sees that, they may charge you for a 50 amp space. If you stay in the northwest, some RV parks forbid people from using their A/C. If you stay anywhere long term, there is usually an electric meter at the long term sites and you pay for your electrical use separately.

So you may have already ordered a second one, but if not, I'd think of an upgrade of the OEM A/C and use the fans when you don't need it. If you stay in the northwest, you may not need even one in many places.

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Old 07-18-2012, 02:23 AM   #27
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We live and camp in the southeast with hot summer temperatures and high humidity. We added the street side awning to our 27FB and will. So far with the single 15K ac it has been comfortable. The heat pump has also worked well on cold days.
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:50 AM   #28
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One approach might be to put a smaller AC in the bedroom that is served by a separate power cord that would plug into the 20A outlet on the pedestal. I run my 13,500 AC all the time on a 20a breaker at the storage yard. An 11,000 AC should run safely on the 20A outlet on the pedestal. I had an 11,000 AC on my little Scamp that ran just fine from a 20A outlet.

The smaller AC, right over the bed, running along with the main AC should make for good sleeping and the two ACs should be plenty for any Airstream.
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
One approach might be to put a smaller AC in the bedroom that is served by a separate power cord that would plug into the 20A outlet on the pedestal. I run my 13,500 AC all the time on a 20a breaker at the storage yard. An 11,000 AC should run safely on the 20A outlet on the pedestal. I had an 11,000 AC on my little Scamp that ran just fine from a 20A outlet.

The smaller AC, right over the bed, running along with the main AC should make for good sleeping and the two ACs should be plenty for any Airstream.
That's exactly what we have...love it!
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:47 AM   #30
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What is typical cost of adding second AC in bedroom on 25' flying cloud fb
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:20 AM   #31
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We find the single unit in our 2002 Classic 30 marginal when outside temp is above 85 or so, particularly in the daytime. The full awning package helps a lot. We travel with dogs and close the door between the split bath and the living area to keep them confined at night. The slot above the door, presumably to allow air flow to the rear, is too small to get sufficient cooling in the bedroom.

Thinking about a single 11,000 BTU unit in the bedroom. I'll put in the air handler with the separate thermostat and run the existing system as a single zone. Simplest approach is probably to run a separate power cord. The 50A cord is heavier and harder to stow.

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Old 06-05-2016, 10:32 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
We find the single unit in our 2002 Classic 30 marginal when outside temp is above 85 or so, particularly in the daytime. The full awning package helps a lot. We travel with dogs and close the door between the split bath and the living area to keep them confined at night. The slot above the door, presumably to allow air flow to the rear, is too small to get sufficient cooling in the bedroom.

Thinking about a single 11,000 BTU unit in the bedroom. I'll put in the air handler with the separate thermostat and run the existing system as a single zone. Simplest approach is probably to run a separate power cord. The 50A cord is heavier and harder to stow.

Al

That is exactly what we did in our 34' and have been thrilled. We had another camper with a larger AC in the bedroom and it short cycled, never running long enough to pull out the humidity.

The separate small cord works well, we can get a 30a site and plug the rear AC into the 20 A outlet.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:45 PM   #33
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I believe that it has to do first with what size of Airstream you plan on purchasing. There is a downside to Glamping- multiple AC units, residential fridge, induction stovetop, etc., and it is called campground only camping and no boon docking. With higher electrical needs 50 amp is a must and it just adds one more barrier to freedom; or, at the very least more planning.

One thing that made a huge difference in my AC experience was a replacement of the old style Air distribution box to the new style. The old one had little control of air flow. The newer style (non-ducted) has a five-way air flow. It is amazing what a difference that makes. At night I turn the air flow to directly down and in the day I shut off the central area and direct the air to the ends. It can get warmer at one end depending on the sun, etc but that too can be adjusted to compensate. I just posted in another thread about AC and heat that so many say two AC units are required to keep it cool. I do not find that to be so with my unit but I do not have as many windows and my walls are insulated with upholstery. I have come to believe that those wrapping windows on both ends must plus other windows- vista view, etc. must really radiate heat long with the bare walls.

One of the things that become obvious, especially in FL, is mis-matched AC to space issues. Too much AC is damp and cold air, not enough AC is constant no-cycle runs and high temps. My AS 11K pulls the humidity down to 39-44% and temp varies with the day/time/conditions. At least if you have 2 AC units you could run one after initial cool down.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:55 PM   #34
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I too have been scratching my head about this.
I'm leaning towards the two units, just because I'd hate to be short. It's a lot easier to turn one off than to add a second.
Here's the downside as I see it:
1. You lose that brilliant generator plug on the front for easy connection to a generator in the truck.
2. The second air is $2100
3. It adds weight.
4. The 50 amp power cord is heavy and awkward.
5. Adaptors are more expensive as is the surge protector.
6. Some campgrounds think you're going to burn the place down if you ask for 50 amp, they only have 30 amp, and you say, "No problem".
(I almost was refused a 30 amp site at a KOA in Kansas because the owner saw I had two A/C's and didn't trust me).
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:39 PM   #35
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I have a 13.5k Penguin in my 27FB currently. While it's okay if in place running with a head start, it takes hours trying to cool down a hot trailer in the heat of the day.

Debating whether to add a second unit. Though I do like the fantastic fan in the bedroom.

Wondering if a single newest generation 15k unit - Dometic NXT - would do the trick? While it's still a 15k unit, it supposedly moves more air and should be more efficient overall. And supposedly quieter to boot. Can't find much info at the moment.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:26 PM   #36
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To answer the OP's actual question, there are four main downsides.

1) You lose the bedroom fantastic fan.
2) You lose the generator prep port (30 amp outlet) on the front of the trailer
3) It adds to both the overall and tongue weights of the trailer, and
4) It costs more

We just bought a 2018 27FB, and these downsides are what led us to choose 1. It has worked very well so far on our first two trips.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillF95 View Post
To answer the OP's actual question, there are four main downsides.

1) You lose the bedroom fantastic fan.
2) You lose the generator prep port (30 amp outlet) on the front of the trailer
3) It adds to both the overall and tongue weights of the trailer, and
4) It costs more

We just bought a 2018 27FB, and these downsides are what led us to choose 1. It has worked very well so far on our first two trips.
Since the second unit is behind the axles, it will reduce, rather than increase the tongue weight.

Al
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:38 PM   #38
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As I mentioned in another thread... I'm the minority but I'd hate to lose my bedroom fantastic fan. I wouldn't give it up for a 2nd ac. If ya dry camp, that a/c ain't gonna do much for ya. A fan will.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:53 PM   #39
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Since the second unit is behind the axles, it will reduce, rather than increase the tongue weight.

Al
Wow - that's news to me. Here is a picture of our 2018 27FB (the trailer the OP was asking about) with 1 A/C sitting in the driveway. The 1 A/C is a bit behind the axles, but I can't imagine they could fit ANOTHER one back there. From what I've heard, it's mounted where the bedroom (front) fantastic fan is in the picture.

If it's not mounted there, (in front of the axles), where do you think they put it?
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:01 PM   #40
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I was told that the 2nd a/c is mounted exactly where the bedroom fan would be. On my trailer that would put it a few feet back from the tongue.
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