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Old 01-16-2017, 07:45 AM   #1
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Amps my rig can handle

FC27FB 2016 comes with a 30A feeder. I plugged it white an adaptor to a 50A.

Question is, can I run two 1.5KW space heaters simultaneously with a little spare for USB chargers, etc?

Whenever I turn on two space heaters on high (1.5KW each) it trips the leftmost breaker. A total of 2.25 KW seems to be OK (one in high, one in low).

Is there a way around this so I can run both in high, use 3 KW?

I know nothing about electricity, being redundant of course.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:54 AM   #2
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Amps my rig can handle

Find an outlet on a different circuit breaker for one of the heaters. 3,000 watts is too much for one 15 amp circuit breaker.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:01 AM   #3
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Twinkie's advice is correct. I get around this, when I need to, in a bit of a more convoluted way. I like to run the heat pump, and 2 space heaters and a small dehumidifier in cold weather. so I set up a "poor man's 50amp service". (or maybe 45, depending on electrical post)

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This is an extension cord permanently installed through the floor with the end (3 way) terminating under the dinette seat. It is a 20 Amp cord and can easily handle one of the heaters and the dehumidifier, while the coach 30 amp service runs the rest.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:20 AM   #4
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The 30A coming into your trailer is way more than you need, especially when your AC is not running. That's not the problem at all.

The problem is too many outlets on one circuit inside the trailer. Leave one of the heaters plugged in, and move the other to different outlets until you find which two outlets can be run full load without tripping.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:30 AM   #5
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You're not overloading an outlet, you're overloading a circuit. Most modern residential circuits are 15 (or 20 amps), so you're looking at a max load of 15A x 120V = 1800 watts per circuit. The total wattage for the trailer is 30A x 120V = 3600 watts. Two 1500 watt heaters, on separate circuits, would be 3000 watts, leaving you 600 watts (300 per circuit) for other devices, minus the power draws such as the converter that is charging your battery, the refrigerator on mains power, electric water heater.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:07 PM   #6
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The calculations are dependent on the campground wiring being able to supply 30 amps at 120 volts. My experience they cannot in some places, especially older parks during heavy heating and cooling seasons. This morning my voltage from this 30 year old park (which we adore) inside our Airstream was 114 volts running one space heater, charger/converter, fridge and propane detector.
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:03 PM   #7
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I tend to agree with the consensus that you are overloading a circuit. That said, I do have an inkling of uncertainty.

You say that you trip the leftmost breaker. On my trailer, a few years older than yours, the leftmost breaker in my panel is the 30 Amp main breaker. And all my branch circuits are protected by 20 Amp breakers, giving me 2400 Watts on a circuit, still less than can handle two of your heaters.

Rather than the location (leftmost) of the breaker that is tripping, let us know the number stamped in the breaker to determine unequivocally whether you are tripping the main breaker or a branch circuit breaker.


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Old 01-16-2017, 01:14 PM   #8
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Greg, there are quite a few different layouts for the panel. Like you, my leftmost is the 30A main. But, I only have one 20 A circuit, dedicated for the A/C. All the rest are 15A circuits.
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:59 PM   #9
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I run two 1500W heaters continuously during the winter - but never at full capacity.

They are plugged into two different 15A circuits. No problems. When temps drop below 32°, I turn on the furnace.

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Old 01-16-2017, 03:55 PM   #10
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If your Airstream doesn't have two circuits then do as dznf0g did.

Bring another 20 amp circuit into the trailer. I did that on my 1982 34V Avion. There is almost always a free 20 amp circuit on the electrical pole that is rarely used. Brings power to my bathroom for a heater. Another heater on the other circuit at the front of the trailer handles most of my cold weather camping needs.
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dznf0g:
This is an extension cord permanently installed through the floor with the end (3 way) terminating under the dinette seat. It is a 20 Amp cord and can easily handle one of the heaters and the dehumidifier, while the coach 30 amp service runs the rest.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:14 PM   #11
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Thanks, flew to Florida today so cant check the panel now. Will do and resume chat on my return.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:27 AM   #12
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All interior 120V outlets on same circuit

Yes, the leftmost breaker on the panel handles all the 120 V outlets, so it won't provide enough amps for 2 space heaters drawing 1.5KW each.

The electric pole has only one receptacle and the RV park charges us for the electricity, so no other place to plug.

I can think on getting a "Y" connector, of one male plug into the pole and 2 females so I can get two different cords drawing power from the park. Do they exist? Also, to get the second line into the RV I will need to drill a hole on the bottom of the RV somewhere... hate to 'hurt' the shell but will do if required. Any suggestions/info?

Plugging a space heater to an inverter receptacle sounds crazy, it will eat up my batteries in no time. Correct?

Thank you!
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:20 PM   #13
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Commercial products of varying price (and one assumes quality) are out there for splitting 50A RV into paired 30A RV or into 30A RV + 20A, etc. Here's one I selected at random from search results.
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:52 PM   #14
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You've done enough experimentation to prove that your breaker just will not handle the load of both heaters in high. Unless it's a 30-amp breaker, which is unusual for outlet circuits, it's the limiting factor. A 20-amp breaker will theoretically handle 2400 watts, and both your heaters together exceed that. What is the number stamped on the breaker itself? It's usually on the switch part.

If the park is charging you separately for the electricity, it might be as cheap or cheaper to run your propane furnace.

The logic of heating a trailer with electric heaters instead of the furnace is based on two assumptions:
1. That all the electric power you want to use is included in your daily or monthly rate.
2. That the price of propane is sky high like it was a few years ago.

In your case, neither may be true. I'd suggest giving the furnace a try.

Around here, I can fill a 30 lb. propane bottle for around $25--cheaper at the propane dealer's yard than at the RV park, but then I have to count the cost of the gas my truck burns to get me over there. Check your local prices.
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