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Old 11-02-2006, 06:32 PM   #15
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Mark, what do you mean by "distribution side", I thought the fuse panel was the distribution panel as well. Uhoh.
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:35 PM   #16
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http://www.bestconverter.com/12-Posi...k_p_57-62.html
This is what it looks like Mark.
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:38 PM   #17
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your IntelliPower converter has output protection fuzes. you should connect it right up. If you make a mistake, like reverse polarity, the fuzes will protect the converter. All other protection is automatic and electronic.

I had to go look at mine--I've got a 40 amp and a 30 amp. What's weird is that my 30 amp unit has 30 amp fuzes, but the 40 amp unit has 25 amp fuzes! Safe, anyway.

You only need one 60-amp fuze, usually in positive lead from the battery. Your converter is already protected, but you need to replace the 25 amp fuzes with something bigger. I'm guessing they ran out of 40 or 50 amp fuzes the day they shipped your unit.

I just took another look at your fuze panel. I don't see any fuzes for the battery or tow vehicle charging lines. (you don't need one for the converter, since it's already protected) You'll need a fuze in the tow vehicle charging line. Airstream usually installed one up front near the umbilical, on the front wall under the gaucho, maybe behind a little cover. It's a auto-resetting type (a little black box about 1" square by 3/4" high). If you don't have one of these, get a second single fuze block and install in the TV charging line.

Zep

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Old 11-02-2006, 06:41 PM   #18
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Thanks again Zep. Can you tell me though whether or not I should later put a fuse on the positive going to the fuse panel (no battery setup) and the negative? Thanks
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rama777
Thanks again Zep. Can you tell me though whether or not I should later put a fuse on the positive going to the fuse panel (no battery setup) and the negative? Thanks
not from the converter. It's fully protected.

One fuze in the positive line from the battery.

Zep
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:10 PM   #20
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First - This morning I purchased an Intellipower converter so I am getting prepared to be where you are now. I am thinking to cut the univolt chassis down to make it into a standalone fuse panel just out of simplicities sake, if it inspects good enough to use.

I'm looking at the shop manual for my 1973 and seeing a couple of things...

The 40amp fuse on circuit #5 feeds all the overhead lights (18 x 1.6 amps for 28.8 amp draw) as well as feeds the radio - tape player, plus connects to a 25 amp circuit breaker coming off tow vehicle connector as a secondary charge circuit buss.

When you buy the main 'doomsday' fuse for the battery, choose one that has two fuse lugs to have that 40A fuse w/o resorting to over-amping the new panel... So okay - You have 20A limits on the new fuse board. Now lets talk continuous duty and that a fuse is a resistor that makes heat whenever current is flowing, heat that melts the fuse open at a known current vs. time interval. Your fuse board specified 20 amp maximum so thats the heat load the fuse socket and fiberglass PCB can dissipate to avoid softening of fuse lug springs, rapid oxidation of surface coatings, riveted junctions developing resistance, etc.. Since its when you are towing as well as for lighting don't compromise.

About replacing the 50 Amp fuse with a 60 - I bet the best current the old univolt could throw at a battery would be 25-35 amps so they fused it for maximum battery draw and ignored the charging aspect by leaving it up to the A/C breaker. Its general usage to fuse at 125% of maximum circuit current handling so a 75 Amp fuse is a safe bet, but make sure everything has new wires untill it gets fused elsewhere. 35-40 year old wiring gives me the chills...

Anyhow - Goodluck, I'll be doing same thing in a few days...
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:12 PM   #21
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. . . Your converter is already protected, but you need to replace the 25 amp fuzes with something bigger. I'm guessing they ran out of 40 or 50 amp fuzes the day they shipped your unit.

Zep
I hope you're joking.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:18 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rama777
Mark, what do you mean by "distribution side", I thought the fuse panel was the distribution panel as well. Uhoh.
By distribution side, I meant where all the 12v supplies come together- the battery, the converter, and the charge line.

As opposed to all the "users" of 12V, like the lamps, pumps, etc., which can be wired from your fuse panel.

Also, the three 25A fuses give you 75A total load capability. Don't upsize the fuses.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by markdoane
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Also, the three 25A fuses give you 75A total load capability. Don't upsize the fuses.
Are you positive this is the way it's wired? The Canadian version has three fuses, the US has two (in the online manual). My 30 amp and 40 amp unit have two. The real point is that the manual says that both the positive and negative line are fused to protect from reversed polarity battery connection. This leads me to the conclusion that the fuses are not in parallel, one for each side. I know that doesn't make any sense, for a 60-amp unit to have 25 amp fuses, except that they are in parallel.

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Old 11-02-2006, 09:19 PM   #24
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Maybe Rama and I both have the Canadian Version.

I don't think that the positive and negative sides are fused separately. If you hook it up to a battery backwards, you will blow the fuses, which are wired parallel and connected to the positive side.

There is no overcurrent protection in the Intelipower. There is only direct short circuit protection, as if you short across the pos and neg sides. I would definitely put in external overcurrent protection devices, like circuit breakers.
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
...
I don't think that the positive and negative sides are fused separately. If you hook it up to a battery backwards, you will blow the fuses, which are wired parallel and connected to the positive side.

There is no overcurrent protection in the Intelipower. There is only direct short circuit protection, as if you short across the pos and neg sides. I would definitely put in external overcurrent protection devices, like circuit breakers.
I went back and read the manual closely and I do believe you are correct.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/PD9200_Manual.pdf

So, looks like RAMA777 needs one more big fuse.

I'm still wondering why my reverse polarity fuses are bigger on the 30-amp unit than they are on the 40-amp unit.

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Old 11-02-2006, 11:26 PM   #26
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I'm still wondering why my reverse polarity fuses are bigger on the 30-amp unit than they are on the 40-amp unit.

Zep
The way I read it is you should have one 30a fuse on the 30 amp unit, and 2 - 25a fuses on the 40 amp?

I can see the confusion if you have two fuses on the 30amp unit.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:40 PM   #27
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So I'll just put an isolated 30A fuse on the charge line just outside the fuse panel since the board can't take the fuse. I'll ground the fuse panel as well as the converter, plug the positive and negative from the converter straight into the fuse panel without any additional fuses and then hope for the best! Sound OK for now? I really appreciate all the input here.
Actualy, one question, I was just looking at the manual for my converter and I can't tell if it's supposed to be grounded from to places or just one. The negative line seems to be grounded as well? Is that just for when you have a battery involved?
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:28 PM   #28
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The "two" grounds issue in the manual confused me, too. Just use the grounding lug and you'll be OK.

Yes, you also have to ground the negative output. Many of the light circuits depend on the skin to function as the negative path.

Zep
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