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Old 10-22-2012, 09:12 AM   #15
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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Check out the polarity light if you still have one. These lights have been a constant problem because if they fail I believe (someone correct me here if I'm wrong on which leg will go to ground) the neutral will ground. Most folks just remove them.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:54 AM   #16
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Check out the polarity light if you still have one. These lights have been a constant problem because if they fail I believe (someone correct me here if I'm wrong on which leg will go to ground) the neutral will ground. Most folks just remove them.
I will check that out, thanks a lot
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:19 AM   #17
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Alright, found the cause. Their is a grounding wire attached to the rear bumper frame, that was broken lose. To also top it off, the univolt had decided to quite on me. It's spontaneous in its function, but when it works is when the ground fault (shocking) occurs. However thanks to a fellow airstream restore guy, I got the univolt taken cared of with a replacement one that he sold me at an excellent price.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:56 PM   #18
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Just a follow up, in the midst of fixing the plumbing system and yanking out the electric household water heater, i discovered a circuit of 110 that was not wired through the breaker box, it was wired straight from the 30 amp pull. I removed the wire, and wala, no more fault. the wire was not even capped off, which i think , since it was right next to the shell, was causing the isshue. haven't had a problem since, and i did remove the polarity light as well. just as a precaution.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:50 PM   #19
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This is a caution and a recommendation to everyone who reads this thread. As I have been doing floor/frame and skin repairs on my 1991 Airstream, this is how solidly the ground wire was attached to the frame...not at all because the screw securing the terminal had been over torqued by the factory and the head pulled off with time and corrosion. Now the ground was touching the steel in places, but nothing was solid in the way this was done. It's worth checking if you ever have the chance. This will be corrected as I reassemble the trailer.

This fault alone would not cause you to be shocked. However, if you get a hot wire connected to the frame/shell of the vehicle, the absence of this ground takes away the safety factor that would normally cause the circuit breaker to blow.

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Old 12-18-2012, 01:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
This is a caution and a recommendation to everyone who reads this thread. As I have been doing floor/frame and skin repairs on my 1991 Airstream, this is how solidly the ground wire was attached to the frame...not at all because the screw securing the terminal had been over torqued by the factory and the head pulled off with time and corrosion. Now the ground was touching the steel in places, but nothing was solid in the way this was done. It's worth checking if you ever have the chance. This will be corrected as I reassemble the trailer.

This fault alone would not cause you to be shocked. However, if you get a hot wire connected to the frame/shell of the vehicle, the absence of this ground takes away the safety factor that would normally cause the circuit breaker to blow.
That's where mine was broken off as well, I suspect the PO had it
Ike that for a good while. This is also really good to know, thx bud!
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:18 AM   #21
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I think I got it, the 12 volts hot was crossed at the frame right by the power jack, this probably explained why the power jack was not working correctly, if at all.. I have not been shocked yet, but hopefully I won't be..scares the crap outa me to even touch the shell with it plugged into shoreline power. Is their a way to tell if the trailer body is hot without risking my life by touching it?
Buy a 'pencil' type "circuit tester; about $10-15. [See Amazon, or any hardware store.]
After you have done all your pedestal checks, and plugged the trailer in and before entering or even touching the RV, approach the trailer, any metal part, and press the button on the tester.
If the light flashes continually, and the 'beeper' beeps, don't touch the trailer anywhere. You would be completing a circuit.
Unplug the power cord, and troubleshoot the supply pedestal.
If pedestal is OK, start 'wringing out' your internal wiring.
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Old 06-03-2015, 03:41 PM   #22
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Boerne , Texas
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I will be referring to this thread a bunch. I am replacing the fuse block on my AS and I want to make sure that it is not messed up when I connect the shore power.

Steve - Where is this grounding block on the AS frame? I want to check mine to make sure it is connected solid.
Thanks you guys for the great reference. I already have one of the AC pens for home use and a voltmeter so I will be using them to test things before I get zapped.
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