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08-05-2015, 07:27 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2009 27' FB International
Murfreesboro
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 84
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Adding external 110 plug to '71 Land Yacht?
I am looking to add a 110 outside, for patio lights, etc. Currently, I can open the rear access hatch, where there's a plug, but don't want to invite in insects, etc. My thought was to simply cut into the side close to all of the power there and run a covered plug, just like what the newer ones offer.
My biggest question is what's the best way to cut into the aluminum and has anyone easily installed an external plug? If I get brave, may even add an additional water supply for an outdoor shower, but that's a project for another day.
Appreciate it!
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08-07-2015, 01:14 AM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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This is hard not being there but maybe I can help. Let's say you came from the existing outlet you mentioned in your letter. First this new wire needs to be protected from anything that could in any way cut into the live wires. I won't go into all that could damage the insulation on the wires but I will say best to put the wires in steel. So this is what it would be like, the outlet you have now would be put into a steel j-box a peace of steel flex conduit , MC cable as it's known in the trade would be run from your existing outlet to the location of your choice ( or the place you can get to) on the outside of your RV. It will end in a Bell box with a weather tight cover. See nothing to it (jest kidding.) A good hardware store will have all the fittings wire and the other things you will need.
The inside outlet you mentioned in your letter will be changed to a GFCI outlet wired according to the instruction in the box will protect that existing outlet but also the new outside outlet from ground faults. This will help keep you alive, I don't want to be reading about you in the paper. Another reason for putting the GFCI in the outlet inside your RV is you can buy a lower profile box for the outside and maybe you won't fell the need to cut in the box to make it more flush with the surface of the RV.
Hope this helps.
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08-07-2015, 08:17 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mission
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
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Also stranded wire is preferred ...
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08-07-2015, 08:33 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2000 25' Safari
Davidson County
, NC Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,493
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I also have thought about adding an outlet. So far, I never could bring myself to cut another hole in the skin.
My logic-- if there is a place to plug in the trailer, 99% of the time there is place to plug in a drop cord too.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado LTZ 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package
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08-07-2015, 08:46 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,314
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Interesting that you don't have an external outlet in a '71. Pictured below is what the factory installed external outlet looks like in my '73.
There is an enclosure that is riveted into place with a door that lifts vertically (door is open in the picture). The interior of the outlet enclosure goes up and in at an angle, I assume so that it will drain water. The original outlet covers were made of aluminum, and I recently replaced them with the pot metal ones painted gray that you see in the picture (these have gaskets to keep water out of the junction box and outlet).
The enclosure for the outlet serves as a junction box, and it extends all the way through the wall, but is hidden by a closet. The wiring that goes to it, like all the 110V wiring in your trailer, is just household variety solid core romex type wire. You might be able to get a stainless exterior door and enclosure that is used on modern trailers as an upgrade. Will be expensive.
To make the hole in your skin, one of the best ways I have found is to drill a hole of 1/2" or so, and then to get a pneumatic nibbler (they're cheap at Harbor Freight), and use that to nibble out your hole. Be sure you aren't landing your hole where there is internal ribs or bracing (look for rivet lines). You should be able to avoid wiring by noting where existing outlets are (the wires for the outlest generally come down from the ceiling, rather than laterally along the walls).
good luck!
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08-07-2015, 09:05 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1971 31' Sovereign
Christine
, North Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 142
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I don't have an external 110v outlet either.
If you haven't read through it yet, check out Minno's -- Little Girl Refurb -- AirForums.com
Starting on Page 6 Post #74 Chris starts laying out new wiring.
The on Page 7, post 93 they show their new external 110v outlet.
somewhere they posted the location of where they bought it online.
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08-07-2015, 09:19 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2000 25' Safari
Davidson County
, NC Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel
Interesting that you don't have an external outlet in a '71. Pictured below is what the factory installed external outlet looks like in my '73.
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My 73 Excella had one too, but it was not where shown in your photo.
It was on the belly wrap just in front of the curb side wheels. I'm not sure if was original or added by a PO. If I remember correctly, it was spliced into the wires inside the cabinet beneath the kitchen sink. That trailer was a center twin rear bath floor plan.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado LTZ 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package
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08-08-2015, 11:23 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
North Fort Myers
, Florida
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 59
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I have a 75 LY 31 rear bath and the factory outlet is right above the freshwater fill directly behind the kitchen counter. But if mine didn't have one I would put inside of the curbside access door under the bed.
ps. when life is too riveting, put your AS in the wind!
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