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Old 02-12-2016, 12:50 PM   #29
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One very important item that most people do not realize when choosing receptacles having those push-in lazy-*** holes on the back, or the screw lugs on the side...

Just how much current are you willing to draw across an area the size of a .5mm pencil lead and not worry about heat or heat related failure?

I don't care if you use 4ga solid into a 4ga solid rated hole ... you still have an EXTREMELY small PATH for all that current you are drawing.

Picture this- two 3/4" copper pipes held together in your hand parallel with each other as compared to those same two pieces of pipe perpendicular to each other. Which of the two versions do you want to draw 50 amps of current power from one pipe to the other?... and it happens at 10 or 15 amps the very same way.

Screw terminals have all the surface area of the conductor you can muster against that screw. NOW you can draw all the current you mains will allow before the breaker trips.

I bring this up fact as we recently almost had a fire at our church due to those God forsaking push-in receptacles.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:36 PM   #30
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Silly question, but I just have to ask. I see round ring connectors with no fork on the end. Is there a reason these aren't used?
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:25 PM   #31
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This is what I'm using in my re-wire:

http://www.alliedmoulded.com/catalog...vices/p-122sc/

. . . with triplex stranded wire, contractor grade outlets, and crimped ring terminals. (Those "push-in-the-back rv" receptacles are for shallow walls, I presume.) Note the volume. I can pigtail the connections in these. They will have to be screwed into the wall framing, but that's not hard with the inner skins off.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:54 PM   #32
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Silly question, but I just have to ask. I see round ring connectors with no fork on the end. Is there a reason these aren't used?
Where I work, we use those ring connectors on the safety ground on DC powered equipment. Most things there are DC powered and DC powered racks and gear normally have a "safety" ground tied back thru the building ground to a "true" ground ring buried outside the building. DC is a much more stable power source for computer equipment, but it has other things to contend with, like the grounding requirements....and a lot o'other stuff.

We only use the ring terminals for the ground. Not for the power connections to the power supplies on the equipment.

Disclaimer: this is company policy for DC powered stuff, I'm not an engineer and have no idea what the electrical code says about this, for AC or DC powered stuff.

Jim
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:43 PM   #33
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Solder isn't a great idea either. By definition, rosin core solder used in electrical work is an alloy, and alloys contain dissimilar metals which can present problems in an environment where condensation is an issue - in the bilge of a boat, or between the inner & outer skins of an Airstream. Condensation can accelerate corrosion in soldered joints. ABYC, the boating standard, limits use of soldered connections. If used, they must be encapsulated in adhesive heat shrink. Also, ABYC strictly prohibits the use of wire nuts, in addition to solid core wire. Wire nuts are really designed for solid core wire, even if they work reasonably well on stranded wire. The threaded insert in most wire nuts is steel, which is harder than copper and will bite into the wire, keeping the wire nut secure. But, again, in a moist environment, corrosion will be accelerated between the two dissimilar metals. Plus, if a wire nut is oriented so its open end is pointing up, any condensation that runs down the wires will end up inside the wire nut.

So, stranded wire is the recommended type in our applications. Both AC and DC. RV builders use romex because it's cheap, and it's quick to assemble the terminations at outlets and breakers that are designed to simply push a solid wire into a hole. Stranded wire shouldn't be tinned and shoved into the hole. All receptacles normally also have screw terminals. The wire should be terminated in a ring lug (preferable to a spade lug; if a screw comes loose, a spade lug can fall out of the connector) that's properly crimped on the wire.

btw, don't use a cheesy cheap-o crimper. Get a good one that will make solid crimps and last more than a week. Something like this:



And, if you really want to split hairs, buy your tinned wire and tinned crimp connectors from the same vendor - that way, the final connection will contain no dissimilar metals at all. Ancor is a good brand, available at most marine supply stores like West Marine, Defender, etc.

This info is brought to you by a former marine electric business owner, and retired marine surveyor certified in ABYC standards...
Does it matter if we use standard distribution panels and outlets when using tinned copper wire? I was looking at some marine grade panels and they're not that expensive. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA...7.htm?CartID=1
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:12 AM   #34
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Does it matter if we use standard distribution panels and outlets when using tinned copper wire? I was looking at some marine grade panels and they're not that expensive. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA...7.htm?CartID=1
Blue Sea Systems makes some great equipment! You can even have your panel custom designed to your exact specifications using their Panel Wizard program: http://panelwizard.bluesea.com

I have designed and installed several of their custom panels for clients as a member of their Certified Tech Installer program. You can't go wrong with their products!
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:23 PM   #35
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That must be fun Lew. Are there any examples of panels you've designed on a site? I was just wondering if this could incorporate solar control and how. I'm still trying to figure out layout of batteries, inverter/converter and panels. I started playing with the panel wizard.. I love gadgets!
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:50 PM   #36
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Here's one: DC on left (red) and AC on right (white). Has a source selector switch for shore power/generator or inverter, dual voltage/amperage meters and a bunch of other goodies! It was NOT cheap!!!
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:11 PM   #37
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Looks close to 2K. arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Old 02-16-2016, 07:18 AM   #38
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Looks close to 2K. arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Actually, that panel was $3600!!
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:13 PM   #39
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I think I found a panel within my budget, custom AC/DC panel with Xantrex battery monitor.

I'm ordering my wiring from them now, very well priced for name brand wiring.

Once I'm all wired up, I'll know what I need in the panel for a quote.

They use Blue Sea terminals as well as build to marine standards for stranded wiring.

I'm guessing someone here has heard of them www.acdcmarineinc.com. Any opinions? I really like the look of these aluminum panels. Ramsey was very helpful and friendly when I called to ask a few questions about the panels he has for sale currently.

Oh and BTW, I don't know how often solar panels go on sale but Amazon has a sale on Renology today. http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocry...5905733&sr=8-2

I'm not ready for that step yet, soon hopefully. Renology just came out with an upgrade to their panels so I suspect these will be phased out maybe?
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:42 PM   #40
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OK so I got somewhere, at least I spent some money LOL
Blue Sea 8084 with 6 ac and 15 dc, 3 meters and toggle battery switch
https://www.bluesea.com/products/808...B_15_Positions
A bunch of wiring and stuff, tinned copper stranded with heat shrink spades
Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper
Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper

Since I'm not doing 2 ACs, I'm going to stick with 30 amp unless someone here thinks I'm making a mistake

Oh and I purchased some great LED down lights, working on outlets, going to look at these: Leviton Slim Design SmartLockPro GFCI Outlet.
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