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Old 12-14-2014, 04:20 PM   #15
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I have crimped on a male spade connector and then used it under the clamping screw in the past
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:22 PM   #16
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Solder isn't a great idea either. By definition, rosin core solder used in electrical work is an alloy, and alloys contain dissimilar metals which can present problems in an environment where condensation is an issue - in the bilge of a boat, or between the inner & outer skins of an Airstream. Condensation can accelerate corrosion in soldered joints. ABYC, the boating standard, limits use of soldered connections. If used, they must be encapsulated in adhesive heat shrink. Also, ABYC strictly prohibits the use of wire nuts, in addition to solid core wire. Wire nuts are really designed for solid core wire, even if they work reasonably well on stranded wire. The threaded insert in most wire nuts is steel, which is harder than copper and will bite into the wire, keeping the wire nut secure. But, again, in a moist environment, corrosion will be accelerated between the two dissimilar metals. Plus, if a wire nut is oriented so its open end is pointing up, any condensation that runs down the wires will end up inside the wire nut.

So, stranded wire is the recommended type in our applications. Both AC and DC. RV builders use romex because it's cheap, and it's quick to assemble the terminations at outlets and breakers that are designed to simply push a solid wire into a hole. Stranded wire shouldn't be tinned and shoved into the hole. All receptacles normally also have screw terminals. The wire should be terminated in a ring lug (preferable to a spade lug; if a screw comes loose, a spade lug can fall out of the connector) that's properly crimped on the wire.

btw, don't use a cheesy cheap-o crimper. Get a good one that will make solid crimps and last more than a week. Something like this:



And, if you really want to split hairs, buy your tinned wire and tinned crimp connectors from the same vendor - that way, the final connection will contain no dissimilar metals at all. Ancor is a good brand, available at most marine supply stores like West Marine, Defender, etc.

This info is brought to you by a former marine electric business owner, and retired marine surveyor certified in ABYC standards...
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:57 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the help. It is especially good when you find out you didn't blow it and have to do it over. Also nice when it comes to advice for electrical or propane project that some folks give their credentials. Truth I have followed the forums long enough to recognize a bunch of your names. Again many thanks.

Merry Christmas

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Old 01-27-2016, 10:08 PM   #18
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I found chewed wires today so doing the wiring too. I'm used to housing wiring where there's a positive, negative and ground. The wire I'm seeing is just one grouping in strands under a sheath. I've been reading online and watching youtube, but can't find the answer so I'm here... sorry. I'll look further but was hoping someone could help me ... am I looking for a one negative another stranded/positive with a ground inside a sheath like I do for housing romex wiring?
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisE MN View Post
I found chewed wires today so doing the wiring too. I'm used to housing wiring where there's a positive, negative and ground. The wire I'm seeing is just one grouping in strands under a sheath. I've been reading online and watching youtube, but can't find the answer so I'm here... sorry. I'll look further but was hoping someone could help me ... am I looking for a one negative another stranded/positive with a ground inside a sheath like I do for housing romex wiring?

Be careful with your nomenclature. 120VAC marine wire, commonly called 3 conductor, has a black sheath (hot or ungrounded) white sheath (neutral or grounding) and green sheath ( ground or grounded) found inside the outer insulation.

The terms positive and negative are not used when discussing 120 VAC cables......those terms are used for DC circuits.

Go to any boat supply store and you will find 14/3 stranded, 12/3 stranded or 10/3 stranded marine cable readily available. The relative ampacity of these sizes are 15, 20 and 30 amps respectively.


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Old 01-28-2016, 11:12 AM   #20
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D Bishop

[QUOTE=Tony S;1552862]Hi Folks. I am hoping someone can help. I have added 2, AC 20 amp circuits to my 73 Tradewind. I ran the 12 gauge stranded wire in non metalic flex conduit.

I have received conflicting advice from two different qualified sources I respect. It isn't that they said I was wrong or right but it was a matter of degree in which they favored as the correct way. One felt the stranded was great for the trailer situation (an electrician). The other felt solid was better mostly because AC devices are looking for solid wire.

I am wonder how others feel and would appreciate any input you are willing to provide.

Many Thanks


I happened to carry Colorado Master Lic. # 128 for nearly 40 years so I believe I am qualified to answer. You should certainly use stranded wire in a Mobile installation. Solid tends to become brittle in situations where vibration is possible as in a travel trailer. True in stationary situations solid would be the preferred product but vibration can destroy it over time. Use the stranded in your trailer. The voltage cares not solid or stranded but vibration must be considered in a Trailer.

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Old 01-29-2016, 08:29 AM   #21
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[QUOTE=D Bishop;1741674]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony S View Post
The other felt solid was better mostly because AC devices are looking for solid wire.

You should certainly use stranded wire in a Mobile installation. Solid tends to become brittle in situations where vibration is possible The voltage cares not solid or stranded but vibration must be considered in a Trailer.
You have gotten the best answers by experts, my experience is that anything in a RV will shake and if it shakes it will loosen. A loose connection will work sometimes but while working will cause heat. I have found burned connectors, including fuse holders where a connected stranded wire became loose and arced. Do not use any household connectors that work great in a stationary situation. Crimp fittings work better in a vibrating environment. Just a little of my experience of 50 yrs doing it without the expertise found on this site.
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:25 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by KrisE MN View Post
I found chewed wires today so doing the wiring too. I'm used to housing wiring where there's a positive, negative and ground. The wire I'm seeing is just one grouping in strands under a sheath. I've been reading online and watching youtube, but can't find the answer so I'm here... sorry. I'll look further but was hoping someone could help me ... am I looking for a one negative another stranded/positive with a ground inside a sheath like I do for housing romex wiring?
Hello Kris

Grand Rapids is near my old stomping ground (Deer River/Bowstring Lake). I live south of the metro now but still get up that way from time to time.

Anyway as to your question I don't understand whether you're working on 12V DC wiring or 120v AC wiring on your trailer. The answers are different depending on which you're trying to do.
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Old 01-30-2016, 02:58 AM   #23
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doing alot of reading. I'm trying to get a parts list. Being in the boonies its best to do that I have a 20' gt. So figuring at least 200' of 12/2 marine awg and another 200' 10/2. Home depot has shallow boxes and grommets. I already have the magnum 2012. Figuring out panel and breakers hopefully soon. I'm working 12 hr shifts so trying my best on this phone lol

is brand name important in wiring? There's a guy on eBay selling wire but I think it generic. I wrote down anchor, west marine from a post. Too many options to list in ac/dc combined panels. I'm going solar so thats got to be considered in this while panels and floor are out.
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Old 01-30-2016, 03:19 AM   #24
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Jammer come boon on my lake. Bring your crimper though. Tried that w Lew but he's not falling for it ��
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Old 01-30-2016, 06:21 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by KrisE MN View Post
doing alot of reading. I'm trying to get a parts list. Being in the boonies its best to do that I have a 20' gt. So figuring at least 200' of 12/2 marine awg and another 200' 10/2. Home depot has shallow boxes and grommets. I already have the magnum 2012. Figuring out panel and breakers hopefully soon. I'm working 12 hr shifts so trying my best on this phone lol

is brand name important in wiring? There's a guy on eBay selling wire but I think it generic. I wrote down anchor, west marine from a post. Too many options to list in ac/dc combined panels. I'm going solar so thats got to be considered in this while panels and floor are out.
For these quantities, try Waytek Wire. In the marine industry, if you order 12/2 you will get 2 conductors in the outer sheath, not 3! If you want wire for 120VAC, you need 12/3 and 10/3.. 12/2 is for DC.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:29 PM   #26
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product of typing on a phone. Sorry lewster
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:02 PM   #27
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Sitting in my shopping cart:
100': 12/2 AWG Duplex Tinned Marine Wire Starting at: $0.64
Type III 65/.0100 Stranding. Nominal OD .230 x .381 inch.

I have a choice of 100 or 250' so thought I'd start out with 100' 12/2

100': 10/3 AWG Triplex Tinned Marine Wire
Type III 105/.0100 Stranding. BLACK/GREEN/WHITE Nominal OD .270 x .620 inch.

I'm confused on terminals. Here's the link to the ones I was thinking of ordering, the sizes are confusing me. :

https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/in...afb979285f2a3a

https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/in...516ce4620e7fa6


These look nice for tiebacks: https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/in...cadc6e9fa15532

And shrink wrap as well to take pressure off crimped end. At least that's what I watched on youtube:
https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/in...8bb6b0eafcddd6

It's a start. I have the inverter, just need to find a good box to wire to, but that's going to be done by a pro along with inverter and setting up for future solar. Just wanted to at least replace the work/mouse eaten wiring. I have many times in the past, just new to shrink wrap and crimping. I'll have a pro check my work of course.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:24 AM   #28
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Looks like the Raytech or Molex heat shrink crimps that I use on a regular basis, except that mine snap onto the screw (as required by ABYC). The heat shrink is in place for corrosion, not strain relief. Any crimp (up to 10AWG) should withstand a 6 lb. pull test according to marine standards, so give the fitting a good tug BEFORE you apply the heat.

Lookin' good!
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