I had a Eureka moment this evening!! I moved the sofa forward and crawled in behind (glad no one was around to see that). After removing the large alum cover that was about a foot tall, a foot wide and nearly the width of the trailer, I found a smaller second alum cover which hid the Univolt. Next to it was the plastic battery box (accessible from the outside). What was so surprising, though, (besides the layers of dirt) was the amount of unused space back there--with the Univolt removed, there would be room for about eight batteries!!
No need to build a battery box and rack system for the A-frame. I'll build a light-weight plywood box with a removable, but well-sealed lid for four 6 volt batteries. The current plastic box will be cut out, but leaving enough plastic there to act as a flange into the side of the new box (to maintain ventilation). The plastic flange will be sealed to the plywood box with caulking. I noticed, too, that the Univolt was sitting over a series of vent holes that go through the floor. Water has come through and stained the plywood floor--so, I'll incorporate holes in the bottom of the new box that are directly over the existing holes, sealing the joint to the trailer interior. No more water or dust inside from that source, and plenty of ventilation for the batteries!
The new converter can be screwed to the side of the box, and it will have sufficient cooling from the interior air.
This is great, as I don't have to muck about with the propane tanks, nor add a lot of unnecessary weight. I'll post pics as I begin the project. Now...what do to with all that steel I bought??
Well, I got the new battery box built and installed (slight delay to the start of a trip). I built the box out of 1/2 inch ply (crappy stuff these days-plywood CAN take on a compound curve on a warm day) The box was sized for four 6 volt golf car batteries (225 ah), and there wasn't a 1/16 inch to spare in terms of height. I used the existing floor vent and the old battery box opening for gas ventilation. The floor vent was cleaned up, painted and weatherstripped. The old battery box walls were cut so that they would stick into the side of the new box as a flange--to be sealed with caulking. I installed a battery selector switch and the pos. lead runs from it to a double terminal block--this will allow hook-up of a large inverter. Future solar panels to be connected to the fuse panel, as is the new Intellicharger. I used 1g welding cable for the batteries to the terminal block, and 4g cable from the charger to the fuse panel, and from the fuse panel to the batteries--shouldn't have any line losses with those sizes!! I'll try to post photos here.
I've placed 240 lbs of batteries up front now. 440ah.
One in the battery box. Three positioned under the front couch. They're sealed AGM so I'm not worried about leaks. Theoretically it's discussed as possible, but, I've not seen one report of someone having an actual issue with a carefully placed in-coach battery.
In fact, we have them all over our office as part of computer backup systems.
Goal is to be able to watch limitless HDTV, and, run the basics without having to be too stingy between charges.
Tom
__________________
2007 28' Int CCD.
2008 F 250 6.4L Diesel.
DTV 5lnb on a tripod.
Wilson wired repeater with YAG.
I am looking at the same issue, and I'm thinking pretty seriously about just putting 2-3 more batteries in the front of the bed of my pickup tow vehicle. From there, I'd run cables (#4 from welding supply) back to the Airstream's own battery. Welding supply also has high-current plug-in connectors to connect it all together or separate it when I want ...
4Slice...nice looking installation...lots of labor invested to get things right!
I'm assuming that the space between batteries will allow some ventilation to flow through the floor vent - looks like the batteries will cover most of it...if your charger is 'pouring the coals' to your batteries when they've been discharged, you'll need all the ventilation you can get...
Also, I know you're not yet finished, but be sure to use some kind of containment to keep those heavy 6 volts from moving around when you're on the road...I would use a heavy rubber type mat under the batteries, with holes cut for the floor vent, to protect them from any rough spots, etc in the bottom of the box, vent mounting screw heads, etc...
I've used a 'blob' of canned spray foam around batteries to keep them in place, inside a containment box with great success...spraying a quick 'blob' on the sides and between ends that expands when cured to hold the batteries in place - and you can easily cut the foam with a long knife when it's time to replace them...
just a couple of more ideas to toss into the ring...
__________________ Let us not be too particular; it is better to have old secondhand Airstreams than none at all. Mark Twain, updated (org...diamonds)
AIR # 11135
1978 - 28 ft Ambassador (Blue Halo)
2001 - Ford Excursion V-10 4x4
Here's my el cheapo solution for mounting two 6v golf cart batteries in my Airstream. I used a 6 dollar tote from HD. Glued and silconed a hose mounting to ventilate the batteries to the outside. Two small holes were drilled in the sides for the battery cables and charger. All holes were siliconed to provide an airtight seal.
__________________ Sterling - 1972 Sovereign Intl (RB) Eddie - 2003 Ford Excursion (6.0L PSD) Prodigy Brake Controller / Equal-i-zer Hitch / Honda EU2000i x2 Airstream Life Contributor WBCCI 4CU #5661/AIR #5661
There's a ton of good ideas for battery systems in this thread! I definitely need to secure my batteries in the large box. They moved around a few inches after hitting frost heaves and construction zones in the Rockies. There is plenty of room to mechanically secure them. I am a little concerned about the bottom ventilation holes when I get the second pair of batteries next spring--there is no room to raise them, as there is only a hair's breadth between the top of the terminals and the inside of the lid.
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) The box was sized for four 6 volt golf car batteries (225 ah), and there wasn't a 1/16 inch to spare in terms of height. I used the existing floor vent and the old battery box opening for gas ventilation. The floor vent was cleaned up, painted and weatherstripped. The old battery box walls were cut so that they would stick into the side of the new box as a flange--to be sealed with caulking. I installed a battery selector switch and the pos. lead runs from it to a double terminal block--this will allow hook-up of a large inverter. Future solar panels to be connected to the fuse panel, as is the new Intellicharger. I used 1g welding cable for the batteries to the terminal block, and 4g cable from the charger to the fuse panel, and from the fuse panel to the batteries--shouldn't have any line losses with those sizes!! I'll try to post photos here.
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