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Old 05-30-2014, 09:33 PM   #1
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Mont Vernon , New Hampshire
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AC wiring plan

We are rewiring our 63 Overlander and will giving our plan as input to our electrician. Any suggestions on improvements or things to change would be appreciated - thanks.

The AC wiring circuits and parts are as follows:

Circuits:

Main Breaker, 30 AMP
1. AC outlet, 20 AMP
2. Converter outlet, 15 AMP
3. GFCI breaker 8 outlets, 15 AMP
4. Fridge, Lights - 2 Front LED lights, 2 center LED lights, 2 switches, refrigerator outlet, 15 AMP
5. Microwave outlet, 15 AMP
6.(Spare)

Parts:

Wire Marine 12/3 250 ft (waytekwire.com)
Wire Marine 10/3 6 ft from input to power protection to load center
Connectors sealed multiple wire butt connectors (waytekwire.com)
Breaker Box - 4 space, 8 Circuit Indoor Load Center
Circuit Breakers - 20 Amp (1), 15 Amp (2), 15 Amp GFCI (1), 30 Amp (1)
Power Protection Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C
Plugs Old Fashioned Style (10), 15 Amp
Plug Old Fashioned Style (1), 20 Amp
Plugs - 1 New style with USB, 15 Amp
Switches Old Fashioned Style (2), 15 Amp
Plug and switch boxes - Shallow outlet boxes (Vintage Trailer Supply)
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:49 PM   #2
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That #12 wire is a PITA to deal with in shallow boxes, (ask me how I know) you might consider #14 on the 15 amp circuits.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
That #12 wire is a PITA to deal with in shallow boxes, (ask me how I know) you might consider #14 on the 15 amp circuits.
12/3 stranded marine cable from Waytek Wire is extremely supple and a joy to work with. I use it on a daily basis. it is NOT ROMEX! Even the 10/3 is very soft and bends with ease. I just finished wiring a 30 Classic with 2 runs of 10/3 marine cable. I would not have dome it with any other type of wire!
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:18 PM   #4
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That is good to know, I wish I had known that a year ago...
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:52 PM   #5
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Lewster is correct. Trust his advice and minimize your grief.

Be sure to NOT use solid wire!

If possible I will install wire conduit of high temp plastic in case I need to "rewire". Then again, the original is going strong now so why worry?

Don't forget... Do NOT ground your AC to camper shell!!!! If you do, you may electrify the skin!!! Great for Peeping Toms, lousy for everyone else!

For 12VDC, ground to trailer chassis but run both - and + to each DC device (minimize electrolysis ) and make sure to fuse the circuits with "resettable" breakers... More $ but if you pop a breaker it is easier than looking for the proper replacement glass fuse.

Finally, for your water heater... Will you use AC? If so don't forget to run a circuit!!

Do not "bond" neutral in the breaker box either... GCFI reall hates that.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:57 PM   #6
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It is my understanding after lots and lots of research that the trailer skin should be grounded, but the neutral should not be attached to the skin.

The trailer is to be wired as a device.
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