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Old 05-29-2018, 12:07 PM   #21
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2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
albany , Georgia
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Have sent you a personal message so I can then send the images I have of the new unit.
The old unit was the Dometic that Airstream installed. This new model claims to be more efficient and quieter.
Now that Airstream is ducting the air in their units, I made a call there a while back and asked was it any quieter now, the answer was a definite NO.
It is always the moving air that makes the noise. In my kitchen I have a huge gas stove with a Thermadore hood, the fan is up in the roof, yet when I turn her on the noise is loud, especially on high speed.
So them ducting possibly made it louder.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:27 PM   #22
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Well I got the new unit on the roof with the rather strange condensation drain system installed, wired her up with the the new thermostat and she fired up beautifully. Not hard at all for a sixty old English bloke. I did need two friends getting it on the roof, I took the old one off myself though. The new unit is quieter on the low end and pumps out more cool air compared with the 13,500 older unit.
While working on her I decided to attack the heat input from the main roof window, with sliding cover. I have made an insulating box for it and the two ceiling vents in the bathroom and shower. An incredible temperature drop was obvious within minutes. I will do the two fan housings tomorrow. The liners are easily places and removed, so during the hot south summer I can reflect the heat now and in winter retain the heat inside. I would imagine it will reduce the AC load and make its life easier cooling.
They say the new Penguin two is quieter and I will agree when it is on the low fan setting but medium and high still are audible.
So if any of you have a unit that goes out, it is not that hard of a change out, you do not need to pay for the deal. The wires are a straight cut and replace, it is in fact a simple procedure. Any reasonable idiot could do this change out with total success, and the help of a couple of friends.

If any man can do it, so can you if you apply yourself, remember that !!!!!

And that made me take an engine apart and put it back together thirty years ago, she fired up on the first turn as well. We all have ability, you just have to attack the problem with thought and some research chaps......
Gin and tonic time for me........
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:30 AM   #23
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Check your private messages. I sent you my email.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:31 AM   #24
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FC7039 check your messages.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:46 AM   #25
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Were you able to hook the condensate line up with existing hose that goes between the walls?
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:14 PM   #26
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Interesting thread and good information. It has been a while since I thought of some these things but I believe the term for not having a main breaker the size of all the branch breakers added up, is the diversity factor. We think of diversity as something else today, but in electrical installations it simply means that not everything will be on at the same time. There are ways to calculate those values. Also as was said breaker size needed is determined by wire size. Having said that, breakers are not designed to carry their name plate ratigs continuously. They will only carry 80% of their amp rating continuously. A 20amp breaker will only carry 16amps on a continuous basis. If it exceeds that, it will eventually trip through thermal build up. How soon it trips is determined by how much the 80% rating is exceeded as well as ambient temperature. Now I need a nap!
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Reference NFPA-70 551.42(C)
Just thought I'd back up my claim....Al
I consider myself corrected!
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpgino View Post
Have sent you a personal message so I can then send the images I have of the new unit.

The old unit was the Dometic that Airstream installed. This new model claims to be more efficient and quieter.

Now that Airstream is ducting the air in their units, I made a call there a while back and asked was it any quieter now, the answer was a definite NO.

It is always the moving air that makes the noise. In my kitchen I have a huge gas stove with a Thermadore hood, the fan is up in the roof, yet when I turn her on the noise is loud, especially on high speed.

So them ducting possibly made it louder.


I think it’s more complicated than that...and a lot has to do with the volume of air being moved through the size of the opening.

High volume, low pressure systems are quite quiet...like a summer breeze.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:53 PM   #29
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Well it took me some time hooking up the two AC drain lines I installed that ran into the box. The issue was preventing the line into the wall cavity crimping. I figured a simple L connector from the T would give me a straight drain line out into the wall line. Well I could not find one. So I opted for a longer curve that prevented the crimped cut off.
The space for the electrical lines and the drain lines has been increased because of the extra gasket you have to fit, so the space is not too tight.
The Dometic instructions stated that the bolts needed to be at between 50 to 60 lbs ft torque. Well forget that, the roof started to buckle inwards before I go to 20 lbs. The extra gasket was getting squashed big time when I kept checking on the roof, so I decided enough was enough.
There is no way any water will get in now. I will obviously check in the future but I have no concerns. If I had put 50 lbs of torque on the five bolts, the roof would have imploded. I tested the wrench at 20lbs of torque on my bicycle nut and it clicked. I never got a click in the Airstream, but the gaskets were getting squashed big time.
Ask any question, this new unit has turned it into a meat locker with some additional insulation inside. A huge difference from the previous experiences. I decided to insulate the fans, the main skylight and the two long narrow cabin windows, it is incredible, the temperature dropped big time inside. It was 95 outside today and after cutting and installing the insulation, it was like a meat locker in there, and we are down on the Florida Georgia line.
Cheers
James.
James.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:39 PM   #30
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I think the Dometic spec in the install guide is in INCH-pounds.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:01 AM   #31
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DON'T UP SIZE TO A 30 AMP BREAKER. There are no advantages to up sizing. The 20 amp breaker was selected under very specific engineering requirements and using a 30 Amp breaker will remove the safety designed into the A/C. With a 30 amp breaker the compressor can be allowed to overheat the wiring and potentially cause a fire or at least complete destruction of the wiring and wiring components in the A/C. Please don't put a penny in your fuse box.


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Old 06-06-2018, 06:23 PM   #32
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A/C Unit on 20A breaker

Been in the A/C supply business for over 20 years. A 15m btu unit is fine run ning on a 20A breaker. It probably pulls only 10-12 amps on startup. A breaker is a fail safe device. Do not oversize the breaker! If you were to have a short with a 30A breaker in place it may not trip and could possibly burn your trailer down!
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:06 PM   #33
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Excellent analogy!
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #34
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Kure Beach , NC
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Main GFCI WON'T RESET

Hooked up to shore power. Last night Air went off, we weren't there, and we had an E7 error code. I turned it off. turned off all circuit breakers and pole breakers. Went back and started tjurning everything on,,,, no AC power anywhere inside.
Good power coming from outside.
Main GFCI breaker on panel will not reset to on position.

2017 Flying Cloud 28.

Ideas?
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Old 07-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #35
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Your trailer was wired correctly. The A/C requires a 20 amp breaker, not a 30 amp. With the correct 20 amp breaker, if there is an issue with a short or overload, the breaker trips before the wiring melts. Substitute a 30 amp breaker, and the wiring melts before the breaker trips. Always size the breaker to the factory specs.
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Old 07-15-2018, 02:56 PM   #36
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Ani deas on the circuit breaker issue i posted?
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:06 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Ani deas on the circuit breaker issue i posted?
E7 error code is high frequency (above 69 Hz)
brick
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #38
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Ani deas on the circuit breaker issue i posted?
2 likely conditions: There's a genuine ground-fault, or your circuit breaker has just given up the ghost. Since it was working fine before, it's probably 2:1 that the breaker is faulty. Will the breaker reset when the trailer is NOT plugged in?
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
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E7 error code is high frequency (above 69 Hz)
brick
From the CCC2 manual:

E7: Loss of 120 VAC power to all power module boards on the system. The system will shut down.

Nothing about high frequency.
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:39 PM   #40
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To reset a circuit breaker in the airstream turn it all the way OFF, not just tripped, then turn it back to ON.
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