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Old 08-27-2013, 09:26 AM   #29
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I wouldn't mind replacing that 30/20 amp first breaker but I can't figure out how its secured to the panel. Do these just snap into the panel frame?

Where would I purchase a replacement 30/20 breaker? Are these common at any RV dealership with a parts department?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:56 AM   #30
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Once the shore power has been disconnected and the access plate covering the breakers has been removed, double check there is no 120v present then disconnect the wire coming from the breaker. With your finger, press down on the top front edge of the breaker and it will pivot down and out. Installation is just the reverse. Insert the bottom rear edge of the breaker to where it seats and then pivot it up into place and then secure the wire.

On some boxes, they may have installed a retention tab over the top of the main breaker that will require removing the screws that fasten the box to the cabinet to get access to the screw that holds the tab in place. If someone can explain the importance of that tab, I might put it back, but it escapes me as to its value.

These breakers are not unique to the RV industry. Most RV parts stores will stock them, but with yours in hand you should be able to go to Lowes or Home Depot or other hardware store and find an exact match.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:16 PM   #31
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The hold down bracket on the main breaker is an NEC requirement.
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:56 PM   #32
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Thanks Silver Goose, combined heat of ambient air and two high-draw circuits in the same unit may trip the breaker, I suppose. Makes sense from a troubleshooting view but not saying much for the designer.

I would still suspect wear from overuse of the breaker mechanism.

doug
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:59 PM   #33
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Dave, does NEC apply to RVs? My background is mostly aircraft electrical systems.

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Old 08-27-2013, 09:09 PM   #34
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It is a good safety step having the breaker secured. Also, with transport vibration things can "shake" loose. If the breaker were loose it could arc, overheat and possibly cause fire and other damage. If screws down there is LESS chance that happens.

I love that my bride can use all the power as she needs it. 50Amp baby!!!!
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:13 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Dave, does NEC apply to RVs? My background is mostly aircraft electrical systems.

doug
I just know that in the info from parallax, they say that the bracket is an NEC requirement.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #36
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Also - vacuum out your converter. Mine is under the bed and of course it gets a lot of lint in the vents. Three or four times a year I use the crevice tool and remove the buildup.

Paula
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:57 AM   #37
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Even though one has 50 amp service in the trailer, if the voltage has dropped at your pedestal due to a high load (lots of A/C units running) in the RV park, your 50 amp service will not "improve" or raise the voltage coming into the trailer.

Thus using a voltmeter to test the actual voltage (without your trailer connected) at the pedestal will inform the user if they should even turn on more than one 120Vac device at a time. Low voltage at the pedestal could raise the current high enough to damage the A/C unit electrics.
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