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KJRitchie · 08-02-2013, 08:35 PM

I'm now at Huntsville State Park, Tx and the same issue. I'm now heating the water with propane. Never had this problem with my Casita running the AC, electic water heater, fridge on electric, 19" TV running the same time and it had the basic single stage converter. However the AC was only a 9000btu Coleman. Maybe the Dometic AC pull close to 20amps. The AC fuse hasnt blown just the main 30 amp. I had to replace my converter in my AS after I got it and installed one from Best Converter, a 55 amp model 4600. There are 3 wires that are joined together with a wire nut. One comes off the breaker.

I'm not sure I'm going to convert to 50 amp. It sounds more involved than my skillsets will allow.

Thanks

Kelvin

richinny · 08-02-2013, 10:03 PM

kelvin, this is the post i referred to:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1163054

also there is a post where removing the breaker cover to vent the breakers which stopped the breaker from tripping. (not advised for the long term)

one post mentions an rv tech installing a 12v for ventilation in the box.

good luck :-)

KJRitchie · 08-03-2013, 05:27 AM

I read most of that thread and from it think I will try swapping the 20amp AC line with another 20 amp line and see if that helps.

BTW, does anyone know where the Use/Store relay is located in a 25fb model? I didn't see it when I removed the converter cover box under the bed when I installed my Progressive Dynamic 4600 converter.

Kelvin

Silver Goose · 08-03-2013, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

... BTW, does anyone know where the Use/Store relay is located in a 25fb model? ...

On my '08 27FB it is located front, center under the bed. If I lift the bed platform I can see it mounted on a vertical panel visible through an opening below the hinge. For me, it is almost accessible.... Take a look and see if yours is in the same place.

mtbguy · 08-24-2013, 12:48 PM

I was reading this thread and think the problem is its so hot in Texas, its hot in your trailer and no ventilation in the breaker area. I think you should remove cover, go buy a $3 computer fan and provide cooling area to breaker box area.

KJRitchie · 08-26-2013, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I read most of that thread and from it think I will try swapping the 20amp AC line with another 20 amp line and see if that helps.

Kelvin

A couple of weeks ago I swapped the AC circuits so the AC is not next to the 30 amp circuit. I moved it to the last circuit breaker. I also moved the water heater so it wasn't next to the AC. I marked the new locations on the converter panel door but can't remember the exact positions to put in this post. I'm make note of them the next time I'm at storage.

We went out this weekend, the weather was hot, close to 100F and the humidity was up a little too. I was able to run the AC and the water heater on shore power together without tripping the 30 amp circuit. I would leave the water heater on for about an hour and when the water was hot turn it off. I'd turn it on while we took showers then turn it off. The AC ran all weekend and there was a constant stream of water coming out of the AC drain hose at the wheel well, so I think this weekend was a good test.

In fact since buying the AS at the end of March this is the first trip we didn't find a problem. OK, the rear window shade line cord came off the plastic tie down on this trip.

Kelvin

dkottum · 08-26-2013, 12:51 PM

Kelvin, I cannot for the life of me imagine what moving wires to a different breaker has to do with keeping them from tripping, unless it proves the original breakers are faulty. In that case I would buy new ones.

doug

Silver Goose · 08-26-2013, 01:58 PM

Doug, The main 30A breaker and the adjacent 20A branch breaker the A/C is often connected to are a single unit on recent production models. A high current load will warm up a breaker and because these 2 breakers are electrically in series and are physically in the same package their heat combines causing one of the breakers to trip prematurely. In hot weather, the confined non-ventilated 120v electrical compartment magnifies the problem. I do agree that repeated tripping of a breaker will weaken it so that it may trip below its rated value.

I had the identical problem 3 years ago once the Texas sun started baking us in 100° days. Line voltage measured in the trailer was adequate, but the breaker tripped regularly. Initially I opened the cover on the front of the breaker compartment and directed a fan on it and that was a great help, but the fan was always in the way. I saw a tip about relocating the A/C circuit to another breaker away from the 30A main and the problem has never returned over the past 2 summers of equally hot days and the fan is now used to help push cooler air towards the bedroom when needed.

KJRitchie · 08-27-2013, 08:26 AM

I wouldn't mind replacing that 30/20 amp first breaker but I can't figure out how its secured to the panel. Do these just snap into the panel frame?

Where would I purchase a replacement 30/20 breaker? Are these common at any RV dealership with a parts department?

Thanks

Kelvin

Silver Goose · 08-27-2013, 08:56 AM

Once the shore power has been disconnected and the access plate covering the breakers has been removed, double check there is no 120v present then disconnect the wire coming from the breaker. With your finger, press down on the top front edge of the breaker and it will pivot down and out. Installation is just the reverse. Insert the bottom rear edge of the breaker to where it seats and then pivot it up into place and then secure the wire.

On some boxes, they may have installed a retention tab over the top of the main breaker that will require removing the screws that fasten the box to the cabinet to get access to the screw that holds the tab in place. If someone can explain the importance of that tab, I might put it back, but it escapes me as to its value.

These breakers are not unique to the RV industry. Most RV parts stores will stock them, but with yours in hand you should be able to go to Lowes or Home Depot or other hardware store and find an exact match.

daveswenson · 08-27-2013, 03:16 PM

The hold down bracket on the main breaker is an NEC requirement.

dkottum · 08-27-2013, 05:56 PM

Thanks Silver Goose, combined heat of ambient air and two high-draw circuits in the same unit may trip the breaker, I suppose. Makes sense from a troubleshooting view but not saying much for the designer.

I would still suspect wear from overuse of the breaker mechanism.

doug

dkottum · 08-27-2013, 05:59 PM

Dave, does NEC apply to RVs? My background is mostly aircraft electrical systems.

doug

cwf · 08-27-2013, 08:09 PM

It is a good safety step having the breaker secured. Also, with transport vibration things can "shake" loose. If the breaker were loose it could arc, overheat and possibly cause fire and other damage. If screws down there is LESS chance that happens.

I love that my bride can use all the power as she needs it. 50Amp baby!!!!

daveswenson · 08-27-2013, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkottum

Dave, does NEC apply to RVs? My background is mostly aircraft electrical systems.

doug

I just know that in the info from parallax, they say that the bracket is an NEC requirement.

Foiled Again · 08-28-2013, 06:57 PM

Also - vacuum out your converter. Mine is under the bed and of course it gets a lot of lint in the vents. Three or four times a year I use the crevice tool and remove the buildup.

Paula

switz · 09-10-2013, 12:57 AM

Even though one has 50 amp service in the trailer, if the voltage has dropped at your pedestal due to a high load (lots of A/C units running) in the RV park, your 50 amp service will not "improve" or raise the voltage coming into the trailer.

Thus using a voltmeter to test the actual voltage (without your trailer connected) at the pedestal will inform the user if they should even turn on more than one 120Vac device at a time. Low voltage at the pedestal could raise the current high enough to damage the A/C unit electrics.