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Old 08-02-2013, 07:21 AM   #15
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The surge protector doesn't contribute to load and will allow voltage down to 104v, so increased current draw is possible.

You're simply asking too much of your 30 amp electrical system, possibly compounded by low campground voltage. Turn the water heater off when you don't need it, or use propane. Remember the hot water heater produces considerable heat inside the trailer which must be removed by the a/c. Minimize its use. Adapting to conditions is a necessary part of camping.

If you need to change to 50 amps you're headed down the bigger-is-better road; where does that end?

doug k
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:11 AM   #16
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It costs about $500 to upgrade to 50AMP yourself... most of that cost is in the 2 connectors you need. There are other options such as hardwired into breaker box... The problem is in running the wiring...but it is doable.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:19 AM   #17
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Kelvin, I have had exactly the same issues with my trailer. I've decided to just live with it rather than go to the 50AMP route. While many of the campgrounds I've stayed in do have 50AMP service, I've found the issue has a lot to do with inadequate power supply outside. Case in point. I was in Maine last week and it was cool enough to need some heat in the early morning. Turned on the heat pump in my Dometic A/C. It would run for about 10 minutes, then shut down and give me the E7 code in my CCC. In looking at the meter that monitors my 110V input, I found the campground was only providing around 105V. Even with all other major electrical consumers off (except the fridge) the breaker would still pop. I have a 30AMP service for my trailer at home. Even with plenty of clean power I will sometimes pop a breaker if I run A/C with a major draw (like the microwave or HW heater). If I'm on my 2 Honda 2000's I can use A/C OR microwave -- not both. Now that I've figured all this out I'm OK with it. Would have liked to know all this beforehand, but it is what it is.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:31 AM   #18
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... If you need to change to 50 amps you're headed down the bigger-is-better road; where does that end? ... doug k
Some of us can remember when our home had 60A service protected by 4 screw-in Edison Glass fuses. Then Mom got a washing machine and a vacuum cleaner, then came the TV set and a window A/C and the 4 15A circuits were no longer adequate. The clothes dryer pushed it up to a 240V circuit and almost everything south of the meter was replaced. Then came the cheater plugs because we didn't have the 3-wire grounded outlets needed for our new 3-prong plugin gadgets. We call this evolution and progress. Now a typical home has at least 200A service and the meter spins along at top speed.

Our first trailers had a battery charger and maybe a 120V convenience outlet and a gas stove and fridge. A simple extension cord and a 15A outlet was all that was needed to be way uptown of our brethren roughing it in tents and Wally was leading our ancestors on caravans across continents! Then someone figured they could enhance the fridge with electric operation. Why not toss in a TV and an A/C, and don't hold back on the microwave and convection oven. If electric is good for the fridge, it's a snap to add it to the water heater. And I'll admit to carrying a vacuum and hair dryer... Life is good and history repeats itself. :-)
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:53 AM   #19
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Some of us can remember when our home had 60A service protected by 4 screw-in Edison Glass fuses. Then Mom got a washing machine and a vacuum cleaner, then came the TV set and a window A/C and the 4 15A circuits were no longer adequate. The clothes dryer pushed it up to a 240V circuit and almost everything south of the meter was replaced. Then came the cheater plugs because we didn't have the 3-wire grounded outlets needed for our new 3-prong plugin gadgets. We call this evolution and progress. Now a typical home has at least 200A service and the meter spins along at top speed.

Our first trailers had a battery charger and maybe a 120V convenience outlet and a gas stove and fridge. A simple extension cord and a 15A outlet was all that was needed to be way uptown of our brethren roughing it in tents and Wally was leading our ancestors on caravans across continents! Then someone figured they could enhance the fridge with electric operation. Why not toss in a TV and an A/C, and don't hold back on the microwave and convection oven. If electric is good for the fridge, it's a snap to add it to the water heater. And I'll admit to carrying a vacuum and hair dryer... Life is good and history repeats itself. :-)
Nostalgia is all well and good, but I'm not giving up the AC on my trailers until I can retreat to a summer place above 8000 feet every year.
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:54 AM   #20
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Thanks for everyone's suggestions. The park I'm in is Waxahachie COE park on Lake Bardwell just outside of Ennis, TX. The park isn't full and we are the only ones in the loop. I have a Progressive Dynamics SSP30 surge protector on the post. Do you think it's contributing to a voltage drop?

What does it take to convert to 50 amp?

Kelvin
Kelvin, I know you didn't ask this question - but use propane to heat your water. It heats my tank in 5 minutes - electric takes 15. I've fulltimed since 2005 and while the FURNACE is a "suck the tank dry" appliance, the water heater is remarkably frugal. A 30 LB tank every 3 months frugal for a full timer who leaves it on all the time - and that's doing some stovetop cooking too! In hot weather once your tank is hot the water will stay that way for hours until you drain it all out by using it. You're probably "saving" about 25 cents by using electric, and you don't have to leave the propane on unless you need to use hot water.

In the long run if you strain the compressor on your A/C by running it at low voltage - replacing it will cost a good bit more than you saved on the electricity.

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Old 08-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #21
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I'm now at Huntsville State Park, Tx and the same issue. I'm now heating the water with propane. Never had this problem with my Casita running the AC, electic water heater, fridge on electric, 19" TV running the same time and it had the basic single stage converter. However the AC was only a 9000btu Coleman. Maybe the Dometic AC pull close to 20amps. The AC fuse hasnt blown just the main 30 amp. I had to replace my converter in my AS after I got it and installed one from Best Converter, a 55 amp model 4600. There are 3 wires that are joined together with a wire nut. One comes off the breaker.

I'm not sure I'm going to convert to 50 amp. It sounds more involved than my skillsets will allow.

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:03 PM   #22
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kelvin, this is the post i referred to:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1163054

also there is a post where removing the breaker cover to vent the breakers which stopped the breaker from tripping. (not advised for the long term)

one post mentions an rv tech installing a 12v for ventilation in the box.

good luck :-)
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:27 AM   #23
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I read most of that thread and from it think I will try swapping the 20amp AC line with another 20 amp line and see if that helps.

BTW, does anyone know where the Use/Store relay is located in a 25fb model? I didn't see it when I removed the converter cover box under the bed when I installed my Progressive Dynamic 4600 converter.

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Old 08-03-2013, 07:05 AM   #24
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... BTW, does anyone know where the Use/Store relay is located in a 25fb model? ...
On my '08 27FB it is located front, center under the bed. If I lift the bed platform I can see it mounted on a vertical panel visible through an opening below the hinge. For me, it is almost accessible.... Take a look and see if yours is in the same place.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:48 PM   #25
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I was reading this thread and think the problem is its so hot in Texas, its hot in your trailer and no ventilation in the breaker area. I think you should remove cover, go buy a $3 computer fan and provide cooling area to breaker box area.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:04 PM   #26
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I read most of that thread and from it think I will try swapping the 20amp AC line with another 20 amp line and see if that helps.

Kelvin
A couple of weeks ago I swapped the AC circuits so the AC is not next to the 30 amp circuit. I moved it to the last circuit breaker. I also moved the water heater so it wasn't next to the AC. I marked the new locations on the converter panel door but can't remember the exact positions to put in this post. I'm make note of them the next time I'm at storage.

We went out this weekend, the weather was hot, close to 100F and the humidity was up a little too. I was able to run the AC and the water heater on shore power together without tripping the 30 amp circuit. I would leave the water heater on for about an hour and when the water was hot turn it off. I'd turn it on while we took showers then turn it off. The AC ran all weekend and there was a constant stream of water coming out of the AC drain hose at the wheel well, so I think this weekend was a good test.

In fact since buying the AS at the end of March this is the first trip we didn't find a problem. OK, the rear window shade line cord came off the plastic tie down on this trip.

Kelvin
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:51 PM   #27
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Kelvin, I cannot for the life of me imagine what moving wires to a different breaker has to do with keeping them from tripping, unless it proves the original breakers are faulty. In that case I would buy new ones.

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Old 08-26-2013, 02:58 PM   #28
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Doug, The main 30A breaker and the adjacent 20A branch breaker the A/C is often connected to are a single unit on recent production models. A high current load will warm up a breaker and because these 2 breakers are electrically in series and are physically in the same package their heat combines causing one of the breakers to trip prematurely. In hot weather, the confined non-ventilated 120v electrical compartment magnifies the problem. I do agree that repeated tripping of a breaker will weaken it so that it may trip below its rated value.

I had the identical problem 3 years ago once the Texas sun started baking us in 100 days. Line voltage measured in the trailer was adequate, but the breaker tripped regularly. Initially I opened the cover on the front of the breaker compartment and directed a fan on it and that was a great help, but the fan was always in the way. I saw a tip about relocating the A/C circuit to another breaker away from the 30A main and the problem has never returned over the past 2 summers of equally hot days and the fan is now used to help push cooler air towards the bedroom when needed.
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