Visit our Popular Forums

BOBHASTINGS · 02-13-2004, 12:44 PM

Hi gang,
Here I go again messin' with the electric! I'm the boy that wants to interconnect 42 batts in the TV with 67 batts in the A/S and have them all maintained by the Uni!

See thread tow vehicle isolated from A/S batteries?? .

Well, one of the things my RV dealer said when he checked out all the systems for me was that the Univolt was dead. Seemed strange to me at the time since the PO ran the 12v lights for me with no batts installed and the Uni plugged into shorepower. The 12v was coming from somewhere but who am I to question a professional. It seemed like a good excuse to buy an Intellipower.

I have the dual batt / univolt installation under the front gaucho. SO I started to remove the Uni. Janked the front gaucho out. Cushion was so dirty, it got up and walked out the door under it's own power.

Before I pulled the Univolt, I took a couple of pics of the fuse panel and compared the wiring with the owner's manual. I posted 2 pics of the fuse panel in my gallery and I'll try to attach them below. A PO had replaced the interior circuit fuses with a more modern automotive type fuse block. Don't know why but I really liked the appearance of the auto fuse block SO I started to think about replacing ALL the glass fuses with the newer style. Why leave well enough alone when you can REALLY mess something up!!!

I'm always convinced that those teeny glass fuses will shatter in my fingers and I'll never be able to post again!!!

I'm not sure where I can find a large enough fuse block of the new automotive style that can hold a minimum of 14 fuses. Any sources, folks?

As I continue to ramble on - one connection in the fuse panel makes no sense. There are a pair of Mystery Blocks (?MS?) mounted on the right side. See photo #2 labeled Fuse Panel Vehicle Connection in my Gallery. The (+) 12v from the Tow Vehicle connects to one ?MS? which is shunted together to another ?MS?. The orange lead to the power jack is connected here at the second ?MS?. The main (+) connection from the vehicle goes from the ?MS? to the (+) side of the fuse block. What in heavens name is THIS all about?????

Is this some kind of diode bank to prevent the univolt from backfeeding into the TV? I can't imagine anything so complicated just to connect 3 wires together! Since I don't know what it is, I'll leave it alone but I sure am curious. Anyone have a clue about the purpose of the 2 mystery blocks? If it IS a diode bank, then that answers the question from my first post. The diodes would prevent the Uni from charging the TV batts!

So I guess I have 2 questions - what are the mystery blocks and where can I get a large automotive type fuse block?? As ever - many thanks.

p.s. After a major hernia lifting out the Univolt - only 1 screw holding it in place thank God! - I plugged it in and, sure enough, 13+ volts DC came pouring out of the wires all over the floor!!! So I probably will put the thing up on eBay if anyone wants it. I have no idea what it's worth so I'll let the largest e-flea market in the universe establish a fair market value. No point throwing the thing away. I'm sure someone can use it. Don't forget, it weighs about a million pounds!!! No PMs please unless you're talking in the 6 figure range!!!

thenewkid64 · 02-13-2004, 12:53 PM

Bob,

The mystery block is nothing more than DC circuit breakers that have been connected together in the middle. This allows you to use the jack while connected to the TV with a dead battery in the trailer. It also protects the trailer should the umbilical get sheared off while hooked to shore power. Without the breaker the whole panel could melt.

I must say the guy who did the glass to blade fuse replacement did a NICE job!

Janets Husband · 02-13-2004, 03:27 PM

I have worked with these products for years it's about time they come out in the Electrical Forum.
They are DIN rail mount terminal blocks, fuses DC breakers and such take a look.
I think for a rewire they might be just the ticket. Vary compact and you can mix and match all the different types on the same rail.
These blocks and accessories are also made by other companies, I just can't think of who at the moment.

Blocks

markdoane · 02-13-2004, 03:49 PM

Try Seachoice (only 10 gang and 6 gang) see page 2
or Ecovantage (MTSCB, 15 position, $24)

Really great pictures!

Brett is right about the mystery blocks.

BOBHASTINGS · 02-17-2004, 07:12 AM

Thanks for all the info, folks! The mystery blocks on the right side of the fuse box were starting to bug me. Now that I know they are DC circuit breakers, I'll leave them alone. Actually, after this thread started, I may have tripped one of them. I was using the electric jack a couple of days ago when it stopped in mid jack. Was about 20 degrees outside so maybe screw was cold and tired. I started checking fuses and wires and umbilicals and phases of the moon. Nothing made sense and then the thing started working again! More jacking and it stopped AGAIN! More jacking around (no pun this time) and it started again!!!
I guess the DC circuit breaker works on a sun cycle because I never did figure out what caused it to reset.

Gary - those rail mount terminal blocks are cool - looks like they might stick up a little too high to clear the fuse panel door, though. Also, I wouldn't have a clue which ones to order. That's the world's most complicated web site!!! Thanks for the reference.

Mark - thanks for the links to fuse block sources - I think that may be the way to go for this simple minded non-electrical dude!

DPeakMD · 02-27-2004, 07:37 PM

Bob-

I have a 1978 Excella 500. Here's a picture of the original fuse panel with only one fuse that a PO had replaced with an inline fuse holder. I thought you might get a kick out of seeing the original. If you need close-ups or pictures from the manual, let me know and I'll send them your way!!

I've been thinking about re-wiring mine with marine grade circuit breakers for the individual circuits and eliminating fuses entirely. I believe the factory is now using circuit breakers, too. I saw a lot of them sitting around in bins when I took the factory tour. Someone with a newer model could confirm this--I'm not certain. The WestMarine catalog has a lot nice ideas along the lines of a panel of circuit breakers. Unfortunately it's $$$ from them!

Can you update us with how your IntelePower replacement went? I'm interested in doing that, too!

-Dallas

BOBHASTINGS · 03-10-2004, 08:12 PM

Hi Dallas,

I posted 5 pics in the photo gallery of my intellipower conversion. I hope every upgrade goes as smoothly.

The Univolt was located in a plastic box under the front gaucho in between the 2 battery boxes. See univolt #1 pic.

http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...php?photo=4579

There were 3 wires to disconnect - 1 to the AS control panel (Intell doesn't have this wire) and the + and - output wires from the univolt to the fuse panel. My univolt was plugged into AC right there in the box. Unplugged it, disconnected from fuse panel, and removed screws holding it to the floor. The hardest part was lifting it out of the plastic box.

The intellipower is much smaller and LIGHTER!!!

However, you must buy the ground wire and the wires to connect the DC output to the fuse panel. I snipped a little piece off the univolt and took it to Lowe's to match the size correctly. bought enough for both + and - leads. It took a little bit of squeezing to get the DC wires to connect neatly to the correct places in the fuse panel but it can be done if the wire is the same size as the old univolt wire.

I took a piece of bare ground wire from some I had in the basement to ground the intell to the frame of the AS.

http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...php?photo=4583

Plugged the Charge Wizard into the plug on the side of the Intell and stuck the sucker on the wall next to the fuse panel.

DUN!!!

Hope the pics in the gallery help!!

DPeakMD · 03-12-2004, 09:34 AM

Bob-

Thanks for your reply here--I had forgotten this thread also had info about the Inteli-Power! I viewed all of your great pictures on the install! THANKS!! Myself and others will appreciate being able to visualize it and prepare in advance.

Speaking of preparing, I ripped into the project 2 nights ago by taking out the couch/bed, front credenza and exposing the wiring and the Univolt. I'm just waiting on my converter to arrive and I'll pop it in.

I'm very pleased with the craftsmanship Airstream put into the details on this area with the dual batteries, univolt and distribution panel. As far as I'm concerned, it's a very safe and well-constructed. It is a real step up from what I had in the '72.

59toaster · 03-12-2004, 12:36 PM

AWSOME write up. THANK YOU!

I'll be totaly rewiring our 59 soon and this helped a LOT.
Our old system had 12v transformers all over the place. Most of out lighitn has 12v and 110. Just swtich on the one you want. Well I wanted to go to a central 12v but was a little foggy in the head on how but your pictures and descriptions helped a ton.

Thanks.

Navigator · 03-12-2004, 04:38 PM

I do not have the (mystery box) DC circuit breakers on my 73, and think that it would be a good idea to install same.
Does anyone know the size (amp capacity) or part # that I should specify?
Thanks in advance,
Dick

john hd · 03-13-2004, 06:05 AM

dick

you should match them to the output of your univolt, 30 amp charger=30 amp breaker.

for branch circuits you can match the existing fuse sizes.

if you cannot locate the breakers at a auto parts store or an rv dealer, try a harley davidson dealer. they used them extensivley in bikes made in the 60's 70's and 80's.

the harley dealer may also have some cool little clips that the breakers snap into, makes servicing them easy.

good luck!

john

Navigator · 03-13-2004, 06:59 AM

Sometimes I can not see the woods for the trees.
Thanks John.
Dick

BOBHASTINGS · 03-13-2004, 08:06 AM

To continue the fuse panel thread, my electric jack keeps stopping and I think it is related to the mystery blocks (photo #2 reattached here, I hope)

Twice now while using the jack, it has stopped in mid-jack!!!

I know that, in the mystery block pic, the red wire is DC from the TV, the black wire is DC from the batts, and the blue wire is DC to the jack. If the jack stops, maybe it is drawing too much current and popping one of the 2 circuit breakers. Maybe the screw is worn or the grease is congealing or the phase of the moon is wrong - who knows!! I DO know if I wait long enough, the jack will work again. But who wants to sit around for half an hour in the cold - not me!!!

There is no reset button on these things. Anyone know how to reset them? Why are there 2 connected by a little copper bar??? If I take them out to clean the connections and bust one of the suckers, where in the world will I find another like it??????

Oh no - FRUST-O-METER approaching the red zone again - WARNING _ WARNING!!!!!

Help folks - any experience or advice???

(Oh, BTW, this is my 3rd posting attempt. In the first two, the attached pic was too big and, poof - message goes bye bye!!!!!!!!!)

DPeakMD · 03-13-2004, 09:52 AM

Bob-

Those boxes are circuit breakers. You can locate more at a good automotive store. I buy mine from a nearby horse/utility trailer store. The ones they carry at my local store come in 20-30-40 amp sizes. The brand is called "Short-Stop" made by Buss Auto. They are thermal type breakers, so when they break, you'll have to wait until it cools down to re-make the circuit. Here's a link ShortStop Circuit Breakers

I don't think the breakers really fail all that often, but it might not be a bad idea to replace the breakers with the same size called for in your service manual (if you need to, I can look it up in mine since we both have '78's). Also, you might want to go ahead and check your power jack. The manual says they must be routinely lubricated, but I suspect many prior owners didn't, so this may be all it needs.

Good luck!

BOBHASTINGS · 03-15-2004, 06:40 AM

Thanks for the source of the DC breakers. I was afraid they were thermal!!! I guess they were doing their job. I'll try lubing the jack first to see if the problem goes away.

Thanks again.

albert · 06-07-2005, 11:27 PM

i cant view your photos , can you post them again please?

albert · 06-14-2005, 11:01 PM

can someone advise me on my 1970 Ambassador? I fried some wires when my battery flipped over on a road trip and they melted to each other on the converter, so I want to change out the converter to the intellipower 9100. Is this an easy thing to do? Is it self explanitory? Is it worth it?
thanks

john hd · 06-15-2005, 04:54 AM

albert

welcome back!

here is a good thread on the topic.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=8705

john

albert · 06-15-2005, 09:10 AM

Thanks John, great thread. One other question. I think my current univolt has the fuse panel within. When I replace to the IP, how do I convert the fuse panel, or replace it?

overlander63 · 06-15-2005, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

Thanks John, great thread. One other question. I think my current univolt has the fuse panel within. When I replace to the IP, how do I convert the fuse panel, or replace it?

Replacement fuse panels are available from many sources. I saw a fuse panel that uses the same style fuse our Univolts came with, from a boat supply store. It had 8-10 fuse holders, and the holders were available in brass or steel. The brass ones would be my first choice, as they wont rust. MSRP on the one I saw was $10.99. Others are available, you vcan get blade-type fuse panels, similar to ones in modern tow vehicles, for a couple of dollars more. Then you can use the same fuses as you find in your tow vehicle, less spare parts to haul around.