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Old 11-10-2007, 10:03 AM   #1
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1966 28' Ambassador
1965 30' Sovereign
1972 31' Sovereign
rutherfordton , North Carolina
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66 Ambassador Wiring Help

New and green here. Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a 65 Overlander that is quite intact and that I use regularly. Having said that...

I have purchased a damaged 65 Ambassador shell with nothing inside and intend to place a mobile kitchen there. The exterior will not belie the change in the interior.

My question is with the existing wiring. A wiring diagram for this model would be greatly useful as currently there are just wires sticking out of the wall, mostly in the rear and on the driver's side.

I have narrowed these to 12v and 120v but I am not completely convinced of all of them. There seems to be two lighting circuits which service outlets on both sides of the trailer and a separate line to the ac. I intend to replace the outlets but cannot find the last outlet in either line. Also, one of the lines appears to have been connected to a third line in the refridge vicinity (midships left) as an outlet. All lights appear to be 12v. All the wiring is copper. How much electricity can be carried into the trailer via the current shore line?

If anything I have said sounds fishy (other than the whole project,lol), I'd appreciate a heads up.

Also, is the vent for the black water tank (runs up to roof outlet on driver's side rear) even necessary if I will just be using it for eliminating grey water and nothing else?

Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:30 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by acanthus
New and green here. Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a 65 Overlander that is quite intact and that I use regularly. Having said that...

I have purchased a damaged 65 Ambassador shell with nothing inside and intend to place a mobile kitchen there. The exterior will not belie the change in the interior.

My question is with the existing wiring. A wiring diagram for this model would be greatly useful as currently there are just wires sticking out of the wall, mostly in the rear and on the driver's side.

I have narrowed these to 12v and 120v but I am not completely convinced of all of them. There seems to be two lighting circuits which service outlets on both sides of the trailer and a separate line to the ac. I intend to replace the outlets but cannot find the last outlet in either line. Also, one of the lines appears to have been connected to a third line in the refridge vicinity (midships left) as an outlet. All lights appear to be 12v. All the wiring is copper. How much electricity can be carried into the trailer via the current shore line?

If anything I have said sounds fishy (other than the whole project,lol), I'd appreciate a heads up.

Also, is the vent for the black water tank (runs up to roof outlet on driver's side rear) even necessary if I will just be using it for eliminating grey water and nothing else?

Thanks.
All the lights are 12 volts.

The end of each 120 volt circuit should be found at the front end.

The city power cable was designed to carry 30 amps at 120 volts AC. However, a previous owner could have change it to, who knows what.

Gray water, black water tanks, don't matter. They "MUST" be vented or you will never be able to put much liquid in them.

1974 and older Airstream trailers will have at some point, bad axles. I would suggest you check yours out, before you start your project.

Andy
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Old 11-18-2007, 07:22 AM   #3
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1966 28' Ambassador
1965 30' Sovereign
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Thanks Andy, for the information. What should I look for in the axles?
Lance
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Old 11-18-2007, 07:34 AM   #4
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Thanks Andy, for the information. What should I look for in the axles?
Lance
The following article will help you check out your axles.

Dura Torque Axle

Andy
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:34 AM   #5
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1966 28' Ambassador
1965 30' Sovereign
1972 31' Sovereign
rutherfordton , North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2007
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axles - pre-74

That was very useful Andy, thanks. My situation currently is a little unusual though as I have removed everything from the interior excluding wiring, interior walls, etc. I will look at the torsion arms when it quits raining but I assume they will be negative now as the trailer is light. Of course if they are not, I'm in trouble. But...I don't know the weight of what I have removed or what is missing and so I assume I will have to put in the interior what I intend and then look at the arms. Can I assume if I still have a negative angle at that point, I will not at that point have to replace stuff? I also assume by your original comment that I WILL have this problem eventually. So, if I had the money, I might as well go ahead and do the axles, yes?

Respectfully,
Lance
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