'64 Overlander Int'l Wiring diagrams and more

[RCDXYL]

Hi All,

I've searched the forums for wiring diagrams but I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 120V, 12V AC (my interior lights seem to be running on AC I thought they were supposed to be DC), 12V DC, and side markers?

We would like to replace the power distro panel as well. We run on a honda eu2000 a majority of the time, we also have a small temporary battery back up system. We also have a few PV panels we want to install at some point.....

BTW What is the switch above the sink for (water pump?)? Is there supposed to be a 12V DC supply in here, if so where? How is the porch light wired, is there anyway to replace just the bulb socket or do we have to replace the entire fixture? I'm not sure were ready to try riveting yet....

Thanks in advance,

Kim

[overlander64]

Greetings Kim!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Overlander ownership!

Originally Posted by RCDXYL

Hi All,

I've searched the forums for wiring diagrams but I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 120V, 12V AC (my interior lights seem to be running on AC I thought they were supposed to be DC), 12V DC, and side markers?

We would like to replace the power distro panel as well. We run on a honda eu2000 a majority of the time, we also have a small temporary battery back up system. We also have a few PV panels we want to install at some point.....

BTW What is the switch above the sink for (water pump?)? Is there supposed to be a 12V DC supply in here, if so where? How is the porch light wired, is there anyway to replace just the bulb socket or do we have to replace the entire fixture? I'm not sure were ready to try riveting yet....

Thanks in advance,

Kim

Finding a factory wiring diagram for our 1964 Overlanders is quite unlikely as the first factory service manuals were not published until the early 1970s. Rudimentary wiring diagrams can be found in your coach's owners' manual. If you weren't fortunate enough to find an owners' manual in your coach or if one wasn't supplied to you by the previous owner, you can obtain a reproduction of the original owners' manual from Airstream at this link.

Our coaches were built during the first year with the standard Univolt so there are some unusual twists to the wiring. The light switch one the wall behind the sink was originally assigned to the water pump, but this tends to be one switch that previous owners like to reassign. The switch also controls the optional exterior outlet mounted high on the curbside wall that was intended for the optional detachable porch light. A photo of this light is found belw (as installed on my 1964 Overlander Land Yacht International):



Unless a previous owner has made modification to your coach's electric wiring, all of your interior lights should be 12-volt DC . . . . on the Univolt (if original) the voltage may run as high as 18-volts. If the interior lights are actually running on 120-Volt AC, I suspect that you are likely dealing with very short bulb life as the bulbs accepted by these fixtures are designed for 12-Volt DC and don't play well with 120-Volt AC.

In your coach's One-Stop-Service-Compartment, you should find very near the streetside corner of the opening, a panel with a red light (Reversed Polarity Indicator) as well as a shore power/battery power switch. Effectively, this switch enables the Univolt when operating on shore power which reduces the load on the battery while it is being charged. Looking forward beyond this switch panel, you should find the Univolt which is housed in a rather large green/gray box . . . the 12-Volt fuse panel resides behind a panel on this device that is accessed by removing a set screw and pulling the panel cover off. These original Univolts didn't treat the battery well (frequently boiling the electrolyte), and the quality of the DC power produced wasn't as relaiable as with more modern converters so the original Univolts have often been replaced by more modern units . . . . generally, the shore power/battery power swich is also removed when a newer power converter is installed. Trying to decipher a previous owner's modifications can be quite a challenge.

What you are referring to as the porch light is generally called a "Scare Light" . . . the round permanently mounted fixture next to or very near the entrance door. These fixtures are still available today. Tractor trailer rigs utilize these fixtures as backup lights or load lights, and they can be found in catalogs for heavy duty over the road trucks as well as many RV supply catalogs. It is also possible to purchase replacement lenses as they often become mishapen due to overheating from having the bulb operating for extended periods of time. The switch for this light is usually a toggle switch mounted beside the jalousie windows at the entry door. I believe that you can find parts for this fixture as well as the complete fixture at both Inland RV and Vintage Trailer Supply as well as most Vintage Friendly Airstream dealers and Authorized Service Centers.

Rewiring the side markers and clearance lights would be a major undertaking as all of the wiring is hidden between the interior and exterior skins. Generally, most of the problems with these lights can be found at the fixtures themselves. Grounds tend to be the most temperamental feature of these lights. Removing the fixtures, cleaning the grounding surfaces, and insuring tight, clean connections often resolve issues with these lights. It is also possible to replace these fixtures with similar reproduction untis . . . the reproduction units are not exact reproductions but maintain much of the original appearance and usually ship complete with light bulb. I am going by memory, but I believe that the wires for the clearance and side marker lights on my '64 Overlander were green. The marker lights are wired in a "daisy chain" format, and often when one fixture fails -- all fixtures beyond that fixture will also fail to illuminate. Reproduction running and marker light fixtures are available from a number of sources including Vintage Trailer Supply, Inland RV, and most parts stocking Airstream dealers.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[AWCHIEF]

In 1964 I believe all they had was a generic owner’s manual that covered all (?) models, this may help you out:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1292172980

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...7&d=1292172980

[RCDXYL]

I'll print and read the PDFs and look into purchasing the other manual that's been posted. Thank you both.

Oh, I can tell this is going to be interesting..... My husband and I are both radio engineers, so we both have no problem with all of the electrical, it's just easier with schematics. No documentation from the PO.

Is there any information available about this Uni-Volt system?

I believe most of the wiring is intact.... none of the radio stuff is original. Both brake light fixtures/frames have completely rusted out, they will need to be replaced. Two of the side marker lights have gone the same route. I figured they were daisy chained, this explains why I can't get any of the side marker lights to work.

Is the scare light in the side marker daisy chain circuit? Or does that toggle switch tend to open up? I tried to get the scare light working, cleaned the socket etc but no go

When I measured the interior lighting circuit it did indeed measure 12V AC, not DC- I double checked with a second meter to confirm because it didn't seem right. The "cigarette lighter" 12VDC outlets are both dead as well. The battery is missing so this may be why the 12VDC system is dead.

I'll try to take some pictures this weekend when were at the campsite.

[overlander64]

Greetings Michael!

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

In 1964 I believe all they had was a generic owner’s manual that covered all (?) models, this may help you out:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1292172980

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...7&d=1292172980

The original from the factory manuals for the 1964 Models were a first for Airstream and were quite rudimentary. The way that Airstream distinguished the manuals that came with the coach was a fly page that included the Modle and a pictorial reference to the floor plan. I have seen original 1964 Owners' Manuals with the following fly pages:

• 1964 -- Bambi II
• 1964 -- Globetrotter
• 1964 -- Tradewind Twin
• 1964 -- Tradewind Double
• 1964 -- Overlander Twin
• 1964 -- Overlander Double
• 1964 -- Ambassador Twin
• 1964 -- Ambassador Double
• 1964 -- Sovereign Twin
• 1964 -- Sovereign Double

This fly page usually had the original owners' name and address as well certain identifying information for warranty purposes. Often, these pages were removed by the original owners prior to trading or selling the coach so it is comparatively rare to find a manual with its original fly page. I lucked out when purchasing a 1964 Overlander Twin fly page containing manual at an automotive swap meet nearly a decade ago.

Kevin

P.S.: I am not certain whether there was a difference between the manuals provided with Ohio coaches when compared to California coaches, but wouldn't be surprised to learn that there were differences.

[overlander64]

Greetings Kim!

Originally Posted by RCDXYL

Is there any information available about this Uni-Volt system?

There is very little information published about the original Univolt as far as the materials included in the original manilla envelope that was included with the manual when the original purchaser brought the coach home. A Forums search for UNIVOLT will provide hours of reading. You will want to focus on the earlier models (1964-1968) as these are somewhat different from the later model Univolts. In fact, the 1964-1965 Univolts were somewhat different from the 1966-1968 models from what I have been able to ascertain.

Originally Posted by RCDXYL

I believe most of the wiring is intact.... none of the radio stuff is original. Both brake light fixtures/frames have completely rusted out, they will need to be replaced. Two of the side marker lights have gone the same route. I figured they were daisy chained, this explains why I can't get any of the side marker lights to work.

You might want to consider upgrading to LEDs when you replace the tail light assemblies. This can be done without the original bases, but you can still retin the Bargman 99 ("Wedding Cake") lenses. If you prefer to have a base with the LED conversion, the lid from a standard one-gallon paint can is an almost exact replacement for the base. The following link will take you to a discussion of the LED conversion that I pursued with my '64 Overlander that has performed beautifully for a number of seasons . . . . link. You can find replacement marker light fixtures that are very nearly identical to the originals at this link.

Originally Posted by RCDXYL

Is the scare light in the side marker daisy chain circuit? Or does that toggle switch tend to open up? I tried to get the scare light working, cleaned the socket etc but no go

The toggle switch is a known cause of problems as is the wiring becoming pinched near the side window. From what I have learned from other '64 owners, the switch is among the more likely sources of trouble. The fuse for the light can also be a problem . . . if I remember correctly, the fuse also has the radio in the front overhead locker as well as one or two other items on the circuit. You can find a direct replacement for your "scare" light at this link.

Originally Posted by RCDXYL

When I measured the interior lighting circuit it did indeed measure 12V AC, not DC- I double checked with a second meter to confirm because it didn't seem right. The "cigarette lighter" 12VDC outlets are both dead as well. The battery is missing so this may be why the 12VDC system is dead.

The missing battery can cause a number of issues with the Univolt system, but most 12-vot devices will operate in the absence of the battery if the Univolt is functional. Having a battery present will help to sabilize and clean the Univolt's output. A word of caution. It is nearly impossible to find a modern battery that will be able to make use of the original battery venting system found on or 1964s. There are a number of methods utilized to deal with this issue . . .:

• Install new battery box in place of the original in the One-Stop-Service-Compartment. This typically requires some modification to the venting system as the small vent port provided in the original setup is usually too small for the vent port required with modern battery boxes.
• Install an AGM battery that is much less likely to vent harmful gasses.
• Relocate the battery to a compartment on the hitch. The problem with this solution is that the line from the battery to the converter/distribution panel becomes quite lengthy requiring heavier gauge wire, etc.

Over the years, I have tried all three solution with my Overlander. Relocating to the front hitch was the least worrisome, but maintaining the extra long supply cable becam an ongoing nightmare. My final solution was installation of a solar panel array with three AGM batteries and an Inverter/Charger . . . an expensive solution, but one that I don't regret since this trailer will be with me as long as I am able to travel.

Good luck with your investigation and electrical diagnosis!

Kevin