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Originally Posted by RCDXYL
I've searched the forums for wiring diagrams but I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 120V, 12V AC (my interior lights seem to be running on AC I thought they were supposed to be DC), 12V DC, and side markers?
We would like to replace the power distro panel as well. We run on a honda eu2000 a majority of the time, we also have a small temporary battery back up system. We also have a few PV panels we want to install at some point.....
BTW What is the switch above the sink for (water pump?)? Is there supposed to be a 12V DC supply in here, if so where? How is the porch light wired, is there anyway to replace just the bulb socket or do we have to replace the entire fixture? I'm not sure were ready to try riveting yet....
Thanks in advance,
Finding a factory wiring diagram for our 1964
Overlanders is quite unlikely as the first factory service manuals were not published until the early 1970s. Rudimentary wiring diagrams can be found in your coach's owners' manual. If you weren't fortunate enough to find an owners' manual in your coach or if one wasn't supplied to you by the previous owner, you can obtain a reproduction of the original owners' manual from Airstream at this link
Our coaches were built during the first year with the standard Univolt so there are some unusual twists to the wiring. The light switch one the wall behind the sink was originally assigned to the water pump, but this tends to be one switch that previous owners like to reassign. The switch also controls the optional exterior outlet mounted high on the curbside wall that was intended for the optional detachable porch light. A photo of this light is found belw (as installed on my 1964
Overlander Land Yacht International):
Unless a previous owner has made modification to your coach's electric wiring, all of your interior lights should be 12-volt DC . . . . on the Univolt (if original) the voltage may run as high as 18-volts. If the interior lights are actually running on 120-Volt AC, I suspect that you are likely dealing with very short bulb life as the bulbs accepted by these fixtures are designed for 12-Volt DC and don't play well with 120-Volt AC.
In your coach's One-Stop-Service-Compartment, you should find very near the streetside corner of the opening, a panel with a red light (Reversed Polarity Indicator) as well as a shore power/battery power switch. Effectively, this switch enables the Univolt when operating on shore power which reduces the load on the battery while it is being charged. Looking forward beyond this switch panel, you should find the Univolt which is housed in a rather large green/gray box . . . the 12-Volt fuse panel resides behind a panel on this device that is accessed by removing a set screw and pulling the panel cover off. These original Univolts didn't treat the battery well (frequently boiling the electrolyte), and the quality of the DC power produced wasn't as relaiable as with more modern converters so the original Univolts have often been replaced by more modern units . . . . generally, the shore power/battery power swich is also removed when a newer power converter is installed. Trying to decipher a previous owner's modifications can be quite a challenge.
What you are referring to as the porch light is generally called a "Scare Light" . . . the round permanently mounted fixture next to or very near the entrance door. These fixtures are still available today. Tractor trailer rigs utilize these fixtures as backup lights or load lights, and they can be found in catalogs for heavy duty over the road trucks as well as many RV supply catalogs. It is also possible to purchase replacement lenses as they often become mishapen due to overheating from having the bulb operating for extended periods of time. The switch for this light is usually a toggle switch mounted beside the jalousie windows at the entry door. I believe that you can find parts for this fixture as well as the complete fixture at both Inland RV and Vintage Trailer Supply as well as most Vintage Friendly Airstream dealers and Authorized Service Centers.
Rewiring the side markers and clearance lights would be a major undertaking as all of the wiring is hidden between the interior and exterior skins. Generally, most of the problems with these lights can be found at the fixtures themselves. Grounds tend to be the most temperamental feature of these lights. Removing the fixtures, cleaning the grounding surfaces, and insuring tight, clean connections often resolve issues with these lights. It is also possible to replace these fixtures with similar reproduction untis . . . the reproduction units are not exact reproductions but maintain much of the original appearance and usually ship complete with light bulb. I am going by memory, but I believe that the wires for the clearance and side marker lights on my '64 Overlander were green. The marker lights are wired in a "daisy chain" format, and often when one fixture fails -- all fixtures beyond that fixture will also fail to illuminate. Reproduction running and marker light fixtures are available from a number of sources including Vintage Trailer Supply, Inland RV, and most parts stocking Airstream dealers.
Good luck with your investigation!