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Old 07-01-2009, 03:12 PM   #15
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I believe that looks just like mine. I have a photo of my panel and a couple of photos of the 40amp breaker I have but got called into work. I'll post them when I get home. I DO know mine is a General Electric with the name Bulldog on the individual breakers. I also think its on the cover too. Whil I had mine apart, I wire brushed it down to bare metal and spray painted it gunmetal grey.

Stay tuned...

Brad
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:41 PM   #16
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You have a GE box, not a Bulldog. You should be able to get a couple of 20 amp breakers at any Home Supply store.

The instructions above for making a new shore cable are excellent. However, you should keep the ground separate from the neutral white wires. The way it is connected now is the original method, with the ground wire bonded to the metal box. The original outlets were ungrounded.

It would be a good idea to add grounded outlets if you can. Current code requires a separate ground wire, but 1959 rules allowed grounding through the chassis.

If you like, you could add a separate grounding bar where the ground wire is now screwed directly to the box.

The green wire that comes from the light socket is supposed to tell you if you have a "hot neutral". The green wire should go to ground; if you have a hot neutral, current will flow to ground a the light will tell you you have a problem.

If you have only two breakers you do not need a main disconnect and main breaker.

Here's a picture of a Bulldog box.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:47 PM   #17
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Finally getting to posting the pix I promised this afternoon. Here's the outside of my GE box and it has a bulldog on it. Also is a pic of the breaker and a close-up of the writing on it. It's a 40 amp PushMatic by Bulldog Electric Products Company, Detroit, Michigan.

Its hard to tell from the photos which box you have. Sure hope this helps. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the inside of my breaker box.

Brad
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:23 AM   #18
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Mechanically and electrically the 4 screws and the box are the same, they are bonded together through the mounting of the four screws. The tandem breaker is not necessary unless you are going to add circuits. You should consider re-wiring the trailer or at least adding some grounded outlets. Most appliances today come with a grounding or three wire cap.

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Old 07-02-2009, 03:39 PM   #19
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If you look closely you'll see the neutral block is isolated from the box. The neutrals should not be grounded.
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:30 AM   #20
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59 tradewinds "City Power" electrical problem

To Ronald D, FlyFshr, and markdoane,

I finally had time to pool all of your great advise and now have power in the
Trade winds. THANK YOU SO MUCH, I really appreciate your advise and the time you all took to post.

I followed your advise to the letter and learned a lot in the process.

Now to the plumbing.....

Best Regards,

Stephan
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:13 AM   #21
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Congratulations!! Glad you're all powered up. What are your plans for the plumbing?

Brad
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