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Old 10-01-2009, 06:04 AM   #1
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350LE Motorhome - 110 outlets dead

I have a 1992 350LE Motorhome. The Galley,exterior and bedroom outlets are dead. In the manual [I have two with different electrical schematics] it indicates that these out lets are driven by Circuit Breaker 2. The schematic shows that the wiring goes from CB2 to the Galley outlet > Exterior Outlet and then to the bedroom outlests. My volt meter shows power into the CB [Westinghouse] but I get no readings downstream. It's not obvious to me how to remove the CB and I don't want to break it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Delaware
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:33 AM   #2
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Make sure all outlets have nothing plugged in and flip all the breakers one at a time. Some mh have a test switch on a breaker that is difficult to reset. Works for me. zz
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:38 PM   #3
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Possible ground fault outlet added to the system not on original diagram, they shut down all outlets downstream of install.
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:53 PM   #4
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is this a Halloween riddle ?
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:01 AM   #5
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Dave - Thanks for the post. I thought the same thing. I disconnected the ground fault outlet. Checked with a volt meter.....no incoming current. That leaves me thinking either the line from the Circuit Breaker to the outlet is shorted or the Circuit Breaker is shot. Any other ideas? I'm no electrician and this is getting frustrating. Thanks, Delaware
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:30 AM   #6
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To remove a circuit breaker turn off the main breaker.

On the breaker you want to remove lift up from the bottom (the opposite end from the wires) to reinstall install the end with the wires first then push the bottom end in.

Did you turn the CB all the way off and then back on to completely reset it?

If you are not familiar with working on electrical stuff it might be best to have the AS unplugged when you remove the breaker.

Also how did you check the GFCI?
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:51 AM   #7
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In the above post I said to lift up the breaker when I should have said "pull out" from the bottom.

There are a set of knife blades that attach the breaker to the power strip sometimes you have to take a screwdriver and pry to get the breaker to pop out. The top side has a lip that acts like a hinge so to reinstall you slid the lip in and up then push the bottom in .

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Old 10-04-2009, 10:38 AM   #8
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Hi Gary - This [like most stuff that I get involved in] is somewhat complicated.

1- Wife was returning from Michigan when she noticed the bedroom outlets didn't work. She removed GFCI on the advice of her brother-in-law [part time electrician]. The reset button seemed frozen.
2- When she got home I looked at the GFCI and it looked suspicious. The outlet box had the incoming and outbound wires sticking out.
3- I provided power to the outbound cable in the GFCI outlet box and the bedroom and outside outlet worked fine].
4- I checked for current into each of the circuit breakers and got 120V.
5- I tried to check for continuity from the each CB to the black wire coming into the GFCI outlet but no success. This is what leads me to think that the wire running from the CB to the GFCI is shorted or the CB is no good. I'm not sure which is the correct CB. The schimatic is not accurate.

Your help is appreciated.
Delaware
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:58 PM   #9
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1st some of the newer GFCI will not reset with a fault (Levertron Surlock) and the fault is almost always mositure in the outside outlet causing a ground fault and yes GFCI do go bad and also circuit breakers do go bad but very rarely.

From what I understand the "hot" wire "into" the outlet box has no voltage with the GFCI removed and all breakers "on" with 120VAC measured at the screws on the breakers. Also jumping 120V to the wires going down stream and everything works.

If I have this correct the breaker is good and you need to test from hot to ground at the outlet since it could be a bad neutral wire or a bad hot wire.
Testing would be from hot to ground and if you have voltage you have an open neutral (white) wire a GFCI will not have an output with a open neutral into the GFCI.

Somewhere between the breaker panel and the outlet there could well be a junction box (jbox) where one set of wires from the breaker branch off into different outlets and this would be a more likely place for a failure.

Hope this all makes sense.

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Old 10-04-2009, 03:25 PM   #10
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Hey Gary - I see that you're online. I keep the Airstream in a storage facility about 7 miles from my home. I'm gonna take a break from football to run out and do a few checks based on your earlier comments. Thanks again for helping me with this.- Jim
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:46 PM   #11
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Hi Garry - I checked the hot [black] to ground at the outlet. Got a 5V reading. Also, under the kitchen counter the is a square junction box that I was able to open [it's behind the kitchen cabinet drawers]. All the connections there are good. Another discovery is that under the counter, behind the kitchen sink is a regular outlet. [not sure how you could plug anything into it]. It would be next to impossible to access without removing the sink. I was able to get a reading and again got 5V.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again,
Delaware
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:50 PM   #12
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I am a visual type person and better at fixing than telling someone else how to troubleshoot but glad to help.

If you don't find it today you can call me on a cell phone next time you go out and maybe we can come up with something that works.

Garry

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Old 10-05-2009, 06:52 PM   #13
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I sent you a PM

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