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Old 11-03-2006, 12:06 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by chuck
well, yeah, I figured the "LB" conduit body was a given for transitioning from the vertical conduit along the outside wall of the house, to the horizontal into the house through the easy-to-drill wooden sheathing...what I'm saying is that there may not be room for 2 of them side-by-side. What you can't see in the pic is the layout of the stud cavities inside that wall, and this really wide pillar that creates the door framing...again, something that seems like it should be simple, winds up requiring a great deal of head scratching and chin rubbing in order to figure out these annoying little details.

I saw some of that flexible stuff at HD...it was like a very heavy plastic or vinyl tubing. Is it ok for that to actually be encased in paving?

so now we're back to "go shallow".....how shallow do you think I can get away with? maybe a ditch-witch would be enough afterall. Paving guy said he'd put down 3" base and 3" of asphalt on top of whats there now.

any problem putting a water line in the same trench?
Hey Chuck,

I'll ask Leon to give you a ring. He is a Master Electrican / Electrical Engineer and knows the electrical code like the back of his hand. Also he installed 2 30amp connections in our barn - one for each Airstream stall. All undergound from the house to the barn, about 200 feet or more I'd say.
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:53 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by overlander63
If you go shallow, you won't be able to put water line in the trench, it will freeze...
I wasn't planning on using it all winter. It'll just need to be winterized, like the trailer. blow it out w/ compressed air (which is what people with landscape irrigation systems do around here), or otherwise drain it. In my case, I can probably put a "T" in the line to a valve, and let gravity do it. either way...

Quote:
Originally Posted by myboyburt
I'll ask Leon to give you a ring. He is a Master Electrican / Electrical Engineer and knows the electrical code like the back of his hand...
I was actually picking his brain about this a little bit earlier in the spring, and I can't remember what he said for depth but I think it was 18"

I wonder...does he make house calls?
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:28 PM   #45
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Update:

Well, I finally got the 30-amp hookup on line last night.

from where I left off on this thread...I got the lines buried and brought into the house...paving guys came and permanently entombed it with a slick layer of asphalt...and that's where I left it, as I haven't had any significant "need" for the hookup. (I did post some pics of that in another thread...). Been so busy camping this season, I haven't had a free weekend to finish up. But I've got some guests coming in a couple of weeks, and they're going to sleep in the trailer for a few nights, so I thought I'd better get it finished up.
(last week, it was 96 and sticky...same as the weather in Perry, GA. Thismorning, it was 48 when I got up. So my guests might need ac....or heat. or both. or neither. Gotta love New England...)

I ran the last of the wiring over to the service panel over the weekend, and mounted the outlet box on the utility post. Dad came over last night to make the connections to the panel, and of course, I had purchased the wrong type of breaker. The old man wanted to "git-r-done", so we made the obligatory dash to HD for another breaker, made the connections, and ~voila~ we're hot!

now, its on to the water hookup. I buried a 1/2" poly line in the trench along with the electrical conduit...looks like its going to be an eclectic mix of materials to actually get it in the house, and tied into the existing line. copper, pvc, and pex...
first, a barb--1/2" fpt fitting into the poly; then pvc from there up to the siding, and through the wall, to a "tee" fitting. straight up the wall to the ceiling, then pex from there over to the existing copper supply line, using one of those slick push-on type connectors. the open end of the "tee" mentioned before, will have some kind of threaded plug so that I can attach a compressor to blow out the line, and/or add antifreeze in the fall.
oh, and some kind of shut-off valve in the pex line, too.
Out at the service post, I may just go w/ straight copper, as I have enough scraps of pipe from previous projects, and I only need a short, straight piece that can be soldered up fairly easily w/ a threaded fitting to the poly, and a drop-ear on top, into which I can screw a sill cock.

whatdya think?
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:13 PM   #46
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I think you should put in a backflow preventer, especially if you have a tap for antifreeze/compressed air. Or ask the plumbing inspector.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:28 PM   #47
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I too would skip the antifreeze in the line idea. Put a shut off valve inside in a semi-heated space that won't freeze and blow the line out in the winter. That may require you to put a fawcet inside to hook up a hose to blow it out. Get one of the campground style hookups for the outside where you have a big pull handle that releases the valve seat below ground to protect the outside from a sudden unexpected freeze.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:33 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I think you should put in a backflow preventer, especially if you have a tap for antifreeze/compressed air. Or ask the plumbing inspector.
hmmm...well, the "sharkbite" fittings I was looking at recently...they make a check-valve that would certainly be easy enough to install.

but also, there is going to be a shut-off valve in this new branch line, the line won't be able to be blown-out or "antifreezed" unless that ball valve has the line shut off, which certainly would prevent anything from backing into the houses water pipes. Then again, I suppose there's nothing stopping someone from turning it back on, and then doing something that could cause a back-siphoning situation.

could always put a vacuum breaker on the sill cock, too....
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:42 PM   #49
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I too would skip the antifreeze in the line idea. Put a shut off valve inside in a semi-heated space that won't freeze and blow the line out in the winter. That may require you to put a fawcet inside to hook up a hose to blow it out. Get one of the campground style hookups for the outside where you have a big pull handle that releases the valve seat below ground to protect the outside from a sudden unexpected freeze.
the pipe would have to have been buried deeper than 4 feet for one of those freeze-proof valves to be effective. and it wasn't.
I was just thinking "antifreeze", because I know that there's no way to ever get the water out of the line completely, as the low point is under pavement. ok, so maybe thats not such a good idea, as it is connected to the house, and therefore, a backsiphoning could occur....(whereas, a trailer w/ antifreeze in it is NOT connected to the house). just thinking out loud...
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Old 07-03-2007, 03:40 PM   #50
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Winter cocktails in the Airstream

Quote:
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... add antifreeze in the fall. ... whatdya think?
If you use PGA as antifreeze, there won't be a pressing need for a checkvalve...

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Old 07-03-2007, 04:56 PM   #51
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Geet a freeze proof spicket. It has a very long neck and the valve is at the bottom. In eastern Oregon we bury them about 4 feet deep. Ok just read you post hat is was not buried 4 feet deep. In that case put a valve that you can connect shop air and blow it out.
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:54 AM   #52
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the water supply for my shop 30yrds from house is pvc under ground and i found easiest solution a hose bib at each end at house in spring or as needed in winter i use a washing machine hose and connect to freeze proof bib from house and disconnect and blow out for freezing weather pipe underground is protected by ground temp at 24" and is simple to blow out with same plug i use on rv plug hose with city water plug when not in use.have been using this program for 11 years without a problem.
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:05 AM   #53
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70' run 8ga for 30 amp .10 ga. only up to 50' per n.e.c. you add shore cord to a 70' run and you are pushing 30 amps almost 100' on 10 gauge,line drop will ruin your a/c compressor and will probably cause starting problems with same especialy if refer,water heater,and converter are considered.
better to spend a little more on wire now than a/c later.know that line drop will not become apparent until load is applied!!!
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Old 07-04-2007, 07:32 AM   #54
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too late. its already done. but as I said before, I did the calculations, based on the actual voltage at the service panel in the house, and the drop isn't all that much. still >110volts at the other end of the line. and I don't have any where near a 30' shore cord on the trailer.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:25 PM   #55
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Here's what I wound up doing....

its a hodge-podge of various and sundry plumbing stock, but it works.

soldered some old-fashioned copper...the already burried black poly pipe, pvc into the house (wanted something rigid, yet easy to work with), then pex from there to a shutoff valve, and a "tee" into the existing copper water line in the basement.

The sea-tech fittings worked out well. what a snap! (oh, and I found out that while the Lowe's packaging and display area doesn't mention the actual brand "sea-tech"...only "Watts"...when I took the parts out of their packaging and looked them over, I can see the logo "sea-tech" molded into the plastic. so they are the same thing).

When I first turned on the water, I was a bit deflated, as only a trickle was coming out of the spigot. I thought for sure, there must be a kink in the burried poly. Then it dawned on me that there might be something cloging, so I took off the spigot, and yep, found it plugged w/ dirt. So I purged out the line some, cleaned out the spigot, put it all back together, and we're in business!
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Old 07-08-2007, 05:29 PM   #56
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Nice Work, Looks GREAT
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