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Old 11-01-2006, 04:57 PM   #29
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50 amp

Our 34' has two AC units - hence 50 amp service. This might be more to the point about "future proofing" your electrical service. I would rather make 1 pull with sufficient juice to support a 100 amp panel, and thereby reduce the potential to have to pull more wires at a later date.

In fact, this past summer I used the 30 amp circuit to support a clothes dryer while the house was ripped apart for some remodeling.

If we have company that needs 30 amp service, we are ready to go.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:11 PM   #30
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I do appreciate all the "go overboard" tips...but take a look at the pics. there ain't no room for anything any longer than what I've already got. Its quite a trick getting my little old 23-footer into this space as it is. If there's ever going to be a use for more than a simple 30-amp service, that mean that I must have won the mega-bucks, in which case, I don't care; I'll just pay someone to do it, whatever it costs....or move somewhere else.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:20 PM   #31
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Bigger trailers require 50amp service whereas medium and smaller trailers require 30amp service?
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Streamer1
Bigger trailers require 50amp service whereas medium and smaller trailers require 30amp service?
Trailers with two air conditioners require 50 amp service. Each unit can draw up to 22 amps, depending on model, when starting. If they both should start at the same time, 44 amps would trip a 30 amp breaker in short order.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:39 PM   #33
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chuck

the conduit is cheap, just bury two. one for power one for cable.

the money is in digging the trench. don't skimp on the pipe!

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Old 11-02-2006, 02:56 PM   #34
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The problem w/ multiple conduits is that there is very little space on either side of that door (see pic on page 2) where a conduit will fit at a spot where its easy to poke through into the house, and be directly above a spot of bare ground, and NOT run into one of those boulders. they stick out on the bottom toward the door. doesnt' show up in the picture very well...obscured by a pile of leaves.

Its always silly little details like that that get in the way.

I stopped at HD last night, and they did have the THHN cable in various colors...comparing to the UF cable, not a whole bunch difference in cost, but the UF looks like it would be very hard to maneuver through conduit. very stiff, in #10, anyway. pvc conduit would be less than 10 bucks...certainly no big whoop there.

So you can't put coax in the same conduit...how about a second set of conductors? like...if I ever wanted something on a regular 15 or 20 amp circuit? (I understand you're not "supposed" to put any 15amp fixture on a 30 amp circuit). Like a post lamp...maybe some low-voltage lamps above that stone wall...
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:02 PM   #35
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Yes - you can run multiple conductors in the same conduit - my home generator had a 120V inside the conduit for a battery trickle charger in the generator. I put a 120v outlet outsude on the outside wall for whatever reason t-eed off the 2" conduit going to the generator.

You're going to pave over it ???? Just get the conduit below grade and cap it with asphalt or concrete. Burying that deep is to protect you from hitting it with a shovel if the wife wants you to put a tree there later or you use a ditch witch to lay sewer pipes later. Under a slab - doubt either one of those applies.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:15 PM   #36
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If you need to add a pull string/rope to an existing conduit, all you need is a little fishing line and a shop vac. Put a small piece of rag on the finshing line and simply use the shop vac on the other end to pull the rag and line. This works faster than it took for you to read this post. I have pulled line over 200 feet with no problem. I then use the fishing line to pull a larger rope or string into the conduit.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:18 PM   #37
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..You're going to pave over it ???? Just get the conduit below grade and cap it with asphalt or concrete. Burying that deep is to protect you from hitting it with a shovel if the wife wants you to put a tree there later or you use a ditch witch to lay sewer pipes later. Under a slab - doubt either one of those applies.
yeah, paving. thats why I want to do it now...don't "need" it, but I'll never get another chance to do it if I don't at least get the underground stuff in there now.
I know, no one is going to accidentally hit it with a shovel, but I think "code" still wants it down pretty deep..."why", I don't understand. But I didn't understand why coax in the same counduit would be a problem, either. so I'm sure there's a reason.
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:08 PM   #38
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yeah, paving. thats why I want to do it now...don't "need" it, but I'll never get another chance to do it if I don't at least get the underground stuff in there now.
I know, no one is going to accidentally hit it with a shovel, but I think "code" still wants it down pretty deep..."why", I don't understand. But I didn't understand why coax in the same counduit would be a problem, either. so I'm sure there's a reason.
If you get a short to the coax from the power it would be live at either end where there are metal connectors , you would also fry what ever equipment it is connected to. You could also get signal interference .
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:03 PM   #39
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chuck

clancy is correct go shallow if you are going to pave it. it is ok and allowed in most places.

years down the road if it gets repaved and someone rips it up with a bobcat you will only be out a couple of bucks.

go ahead and put two in, you can use a connector called a "LB" to address the transition issues at the house.

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Old 11-02-2006, 07:41 PM   #40
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chuck

clancy is correct go shallow if you are going to pave it. it is ok and allowed in most places.

years down the road if it gets repaved and someone rips it up with a bobcat you will only be out a couple of bucks.

go ahead and put two in, you can use a connector called a "LB" to address the transition issues at the house.

john
I would put an LB on the house end to transition into the house anyway - puts the pipe right up to the siding. The LB allows access to pull wires from there Below that a short piece of rigid pipe then flex around the rock/foundation issue and into the ground then sweep to go horizontal for the run to the traiier area. My 2cents worth.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:39 AM   #41
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well, yeah, I figured the "LB" conduit body was a given for transitioning from the vertical conduit along the outside wall of the house, to the horizontal into the house through the easy-to-drill wooden sheathing...what I'm saying is that there may not be room for 2 of them side-by-side. What you can't see in the pic is the layout of the stud cavities inside that wall, and this really wide pillar that creates the door framing...again, something that seems like it should be simple, winds up requiring a great deal of head scratching and chin rubbing in order to figure out these annoying little details.

I saw some of that flexible stuff at HD...it was like a very heavy plastic or vinyl tubing. Is it ok for that to actually be encased in paving?

so now we're back to "go shallow".....how shallow do you think I can get away with? maybe a ditch-witch would be enough afterall. Paving guy said he'd put down 3" base and 3" of asphalt on top of whats there now.

any problem putting a water line in the same trench?
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:54 AM   #42
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so now we're back to "go shallow".....how shallow do you think I can get away with? maybe a ditch-witch would be enough afterall. Paving guy said he'd put down 3" base and 3" of asphalt on top of whats there now.

any problem putting a water line in the same trench?
If you go shallow, you won't be able to put water line in the trench, it will freeze. You would need to go below the frost line for water pipe. Also, part of laying the conduit deep is to minimize frost-heave.
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