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Old 10-31-2006, 05:38 PM   #15
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chuck

non metalic conduit will make an easy pull. don't worry about a string, i can tell you how to put one in after it is installed.

glue all the joints well and use sweep elbows.



got a shop vac?

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Old 10-31-2006, 06:53 PM   #16
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If you wanna gete fancy...

Will local code allow coax to be run in the same conduit as power wires? If so, you can run TV cable to your trailer's parking location. You can then catch the Patriots' game on the TV while working on your trailer.
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Will local code allow coax to be run in the same conduit as power wires? ...
I don't think it will.

But I ran 100 amp service & coax & telephone through a 3-inch, underground conduit to my shop, and have had no problems after seven years.

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Old 10-31-2006, 07:02 PM   #18
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I doubt it - power conducting through the power lines may cause interference with both phone and tv in such close poximity. The main reason is the possibility of a short across the lines and killing all the equipment in the house, trailer and out to the pole unless there is a link to disconnect when voltage is detected. Cheeper to run those lines in normal white (cheep) pvc, just use the electrical 90 degree sweeps to pull the lines in that too. 100 feet of pipe with connectors will be less than $30.
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Will local code allow coax to be run in the same conduit as power wires? If so, you can run TV cable to your trailer's parking location. You can then catch the Patriots' game on the TV while working on your trailer.
no.


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Old 10-31-2006, 07:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
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no.


john
I didn't think so. It was an idea, anyway...
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Will local code allow coax to be run in the same conduit as power wires? If so, you can run TV cable to your trailer's parking location. You can then catch the Patriots' game on the TV while working on your trailer.
...in air-conditioned comfort, no less.

except, we don't generally need air conditioning when the Pats are playing...

maybe if they're playing Miami.



actually, the Pats are typically on "broadcast" TV, which I can pick up nicely from the driveway. But the SOX...almost exclusively on cable. AND in hot weather. So I *need* both!!

Why can't you string a piece of RG-6 in the same conduit?? I have to run a second one parallel?? (I've got a 2" pvc "chase" that runs from my basement to the attic, and in it, there are both coax and electrical runs...doesn't seem to cause any problem...).

OK. Lets compound the problem some more:
We're not getting 24" deep without dynamite. I'm sitting on top of a pile of rocks and ledge...The boulders in the attached pics were what was taken out of the ground when the house was built. There also isn't much room for a conduit between the door and the boulder-wall. I don't think I really want a huge pipe going into the house right there...I was thinking a slim 3/4"...
pvc conduit is cheap, so its a sure thing. (buck and a half for 10' length...).

So, in the pic, the service post will be just to my right. The door on the house goes into the basement...the main panel is ~10' to the left of the door. to the right of the door is a sillcock...I can connect a water line there. so there'll be a pipe running down each side of the door. the bottom edge of those boulders on either side of the door are only a few inches from the door opening, so there's not alot of room....
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:51 AM   #22
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Plan "B"

Since plan "A" never had a chance, plan "B" would be to run outdoor wire up the side of the house, and run the wire out to a pole near the trailer, down the pole to an outlet box.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:11 PM   #23
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I'm no electrician and am sure to be pounced on for commenting - BUT - when I have done this in the past with the "relaxed" Mississippi building codes I am familure with - there is a minimum diameter of pipe for wire size and voltages you will be using and the distance requirements. Plan on informing your city or county building inspectors and they will "tell" you what you will require. If not - then your right use whatever. Burial depths change with conditions - yours are obviously different from mine. Below the frost line would be good.

BTW - I once ran a water line to a referb I was doing from the city water meter - had a 1' connector on the meter - ran 1' line. Was forced by "CODE" to replace the lines with 1.25" diameter lines and had to use an adaptor at the meter - go figure.......

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Old 11-01-2006, 12:13 PM   #24
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oh, thats just crazy talk. why does "plan a" not have a chance? we may not be able to get a whole 2'...or there just might be some big bones to pull out. I've been advised to "not bother" with a ditch-witch...I'll need to get a small backhoe or similar.

here's another view from the front corner of the house, looking down. the trailer parks where the white car is in the pic...you can see the utility pole to the right...not really any closer to the back-end of the trailer than the foundation is.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Below the frost line would be good.
that's like 4 FEET here.

when I put in my deck, we broke heavy equipment trying to do that. 8" auger mounted on a tractor's 3-point hitch. caught a boulder and ~snap~.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:38 PM   #26
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
that's like 4 FEET here.

when I put in my deck, we broke heavy equipment trying to do that. 8" auger mounted on a tractor's 3-point hitch. caught a boulder and ~snap~.
I'm probably wrong, but I thought it was 18" in conduit, and 24" for UF wire. Whatever you do, I like to lay a strip of yellow "CAUTION" tape over the conduit or wire before I backfill.

I would definitely put in two hots, a neutral, and a ground. Even though you only plan to run 120V, someday you will want to upgrade to 240V. Or maybe use a welder. Or a large electric barbeque. Or a big irrigation pump. Or lighting for your ice rink/basketball court.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:08 PM   #28
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It's ultimately a workmanship issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
...Why can't you string a piece of RG-6 in the same conduit? ...
Obviously you can, but Code does not want you to primarily in case something was to go wrong while pulling the wires through the conduit.

While there are many possible scenarios where a wire's insulation could be nicked, let's say you nick both one of your hot wires and the insulation on your coaxial cable and the hot wire's conductor gets mashed against the coax's now-exposed braid. The coax will now be at 120 vac, and if you should happen to screw the connector on to your television you may get shocked.

If you do not get shocked, the television's guts probably will.

I decided to flirt with disaster because of the type of wire fished through the conduit. I don't recall the exact designation, but it was double-insulated with a ground braided around the two hot wires; If the outer insulation was to get knicked, anything in the conduit would only be exposed to a wire at ground potential.

Secondarily, running power & signal in the same conduit could induce noise into the signal wires. But that only typically occurs during heavy power usage. Just running the television & converter would not be a problem.

You would, however, might want to refrain from any arc-welding while the Sox are playing.

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