Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-16-2018, 10:39 PM   #1
wmb
3 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' Flying Cloud
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 103
30A Receptacle Melted Today

This was our third crisis this month so I guess they do come in threes!

When we unhooked this morning in Colorado, the 30A cord came out with a little something extra attached for the ride - one of the receptacle pins. The plastic inside the receptacle around that pin had completely melted away. There was also a nasty charred burn around the slot for that pin on the end of the cord.

It's been very hot this week and we've been running the A/C more than usual. The voltage to the trailer as measured by both a Kill-a-Watt and a pure sine wave UPS has been a fairly steady 116V, but we did have the breaker in the pedestal trip on one occasion when we absent-mindedly ran the microwave while the A/C was running.

We also have a SurgeGuard 30A 44260 on the cord, which showed two green lights for power status and the green light for active surge protection.

When we got to Salt Lake we picked up a new cord at Camping World and we're using the second receptacle on the front of the trailer until we can get to the local Airstream dealer tomorrow to pick up a new receptacle.

Anyone else seen this? Is there something else I should be diagnosing?
wmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 10:52 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Gsmblue's Avatar
 
2015 25' Flying Cloud
Bend , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 761
All you need to change those receptacles out is a screwdriver, if you are so inclined!
__________________
https://britishairstream.blogspot.com
Mad Astrophysicist turned sales guy that works to fund his dirty snowboarding habbit, mwah-ha-ha . . .
Gsmblue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 10:56 PM   #3
wmb
3 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' Flying Cloud
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post
All you need to change those receptacles out is a screwdriver, if you are so inclined!
Oh, I'm definitely going to replace it myself - it's just finding one locally that'll be the issue. I thought I'd seen that Camping World sold the gray/silver Furrion type but all they had was a generic black thing. Can't sully the Airstream with that!

Hopefully Airstream of Salt Lake will have one to sell, and they won't gouge my eyes out on the price...
wmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 11:07 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
CruizinDux's Avatar
 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,589
!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmb View Post
This was our third crisis this month so I guess they do come in threes!

When we unhooked this morning in Colorado, the 30A cord came out with a little something extra attached for the ride - one of the receptacle pins. The plastic inside the receptacle around that pin had completely melted away. There was also a nasty charred burn around the slot for that pin on the end of the cord.

It's been very hot this week and we've been running the A/C more than usual. The voltage to the trailer as measured by both a Kill-a-Watt and a pure sine wave UPS has been a fairly steady 116V, but we did have the breaker in the pedestal trip on one occasion when we absent-mindedly ran the microwave while the A/C was running.

We also have a SurgeGuard 30A 44260 on the cord, which showed two green lights for power status and the green light for active surge protection.

When we got to Salt Lake we picked up a new cord at Camping World and we're using the second receptacle on the front of the trailer until we can get to the local Airstream dealer tomorrow to pick up a new receptacle.

Anyone else seen this? Is there something else I should be diagnosing?
I'd take the opportunity to swap out the OEM Furrion connection for a chrome model. If no one chimes in, pm me and i'll look for the link that i believe i saved..for when my time comes. Seems there was a recent post from a vintage tt that recently upgraded.
Bob
Agreed, a screwdriver swap.
CruizinDux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 11:09 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Gsmblue's Avatar
 
2015 25' Flying Cloud
Bend , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 761
Look for a local boat place like a west marine or something, they have replacements that work. I got my stainless Furrion ones from there.
__________________
https://britishairstream.blogspot.com
Mad Astrophysicist turned sales guy that works to fund his dirty snowboarding habbit, mwah-ha-ha . . .
Gsmblue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 03:35 AM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Amherst , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 23
The previous owner of our trailer installed a SmartPlug. From my subsequent research this looks to be a much better connector and designed to prevent the issue you encountered.
__________________
2006 Safari 23 LE
Lgebhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 04:38 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Tincampers's Avatar
 
2007 Interstate
Sneedville , Tennessee
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,753
There was a factory recall on those plugs, did you have yours checked? Something to do with loose screws attaching the wires to the back of the plug.
Tincampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 05:02 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Wayne&Sam's Avatar
 
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville , New York
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,333
Images: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tincampers View Post
There was a factory recall on those plugs, did you have yours checked? Something to do with loose screws attaching the wires to the back of the plug.
Yup, that's what I was going to say. And it would cause that very problem.
__________________
2014 25' Flying Cloud Rear Twin
2019 Ford Expedition Platinum
Wayne&Sam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:21 AM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
2017 25' International
Calgary , Alberta
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 24
If I understand your situation correctly, the problem was between the campgrounds plug in and your power cord. This condition often occurs due to poor maintenance in the campground. Your plug goes in but there is a poor electrical connection and arcing occurs and generates heat that melts the receptacle and the cord.

I think there's not too much you can do other than install a new plug on the end of your cord or replace the entire cord.

When possible, use a 50A by 30A dogbone and plug into the 50A receptacle, the 50A receptacles seem to have much less wear and tear and even if they do, you only have a dogbone at risk.

Some folks have reported that they have had problems where the plug on their surge protector also got melted. Whether or not there is net benefit with a surge protector is a whole other discussion....
Oldtrapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:26 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
gklott's Avatar
 
2004 30' Classic
Johnson City , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 591
Images: 86
Consider SmartPlug

I read your post to mean that your trailer's primary shore-power AC receptacle (inlet) failed. When you do replace it, we can strongly recommend installing a SmartPlug plug and receptacle. SmartPlug is a listed device (ETL). We installed the marine-grade 316 stainless steel inlet. Should take < 1 hr to change, taking extra care to ensure proper polarity.

73/gus
__________________
Gus - KR4K : Mary - K5MCL
2004 30ft. Classic
2017 Infiniti QX80 Limited
ProPride 3P/Prodigy P3
gklott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:38 AM   #11
Airstream Ambassador
 
AirstreamInc's Avatar
 
Jackson Center , Ohio
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 742
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmb View Post
This was our third crisis this month so I guess they do come in threes!

When we unhooked this morning in Colorado, the 30A cord came out with a little something extra attached for the ride - one of the receptacle pins. The plastic inside the receptacle around that pin had completely melted away. There was also a nasty charred burn around the slot for that pin on the end of the cord.

It's been very hot this week and we've been running the A/C more than usual. The voltage to the trailer as measured by both a Kill-a-Watt and a pure sine wave UPS has been a fairly steady 116V, but we did have the breaker in the pedestal trip on one occasion when we absent-mindedly ran the microwave while the A/C was running.

We also have a SurgeGuard 30A 44260 on the cord, which showed two green lights for power status and the green light for active surge protection.

When we got to Salt Lake we picked up a new cord at Camping World and we're using the second receptacle on the front of the trailer until we can get to the local Airstream dealer tomorrow to pick up a new receptacle.

Anyone else seen this? Is there something else I should be diagnosing?
Hi wmb,

Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at customer_support@airstream.com

Thank you.
__________________
Official account for Airstream, Inc.
Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support can be reached at 1 (877) 596-6111, option 1.
AirstreamInc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:42 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
SuzyHomemakr's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 568
I think that this is the result of folks plugging in without flipping off the breaker first. I mean turning it off, I imagine that OP did a lot of the former when they found their arc-welded plug!

I've been disagreed with (the horror! ) on the use of a circuit breaker as a switch, some would say that it wears out the breaker ahead of its time. In this case, the campground is looking at having a electrician swap out the receptacle, and our OP having to at least replace the plug, and maybe more. Swapping a breaker is an easy fix by comparison! Besides, the breaker belongs to the campground, we don't have to pay for it.

While we're on the subject, I recently installed a 30A circuit tester to my shore power plug. It's a Camco PowerDefender Circuit Analyzer With Integrated Surge Protection and Indicator Lights, 30 Amp Male to 30 Amp Female. Tells me the state of the power and is an easy replaceable link in the circuit.
SuzyHomemakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:57 AM   #13
3 Rivet Member
 
2017 30' Flying Cloud
Spotsylvania , Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 179
The electrician / engineer in me wants to know what other damage or problem down line caused this problem. You have a 4 yr. old trailer, something has loosened up to cause this issue or the recept in the side of the trailer has gotten a ton of use and wore out to cause the issue.

I do agree with the folks that said stop by a West Marine to get a replacement and also use some dielectric grease on the connections.
KWN306 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 10:39 AM   #14
2 Rivet Member
 
tojimmiller's Avatar
 
1996 30' Limited
1990 34.5' Airstream 345
santa rosa , California
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
That’s a great idea. Never thought of that 50to a 30. GREAT ��
tojimmiller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 10:47 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
The Colonel's Avatar
 
2017 25' Flying Cloud
Florence , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 711
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by gklott View Post
I read your post to mean that your trailer's primary shore-power AC receptacle (inlet) failed. When you do replace it, we can strongly recommend installing a SmartPlug plug and receptacle. SmartPlug is a listed device (ETL). We installed the marine-grade 316 stainless steel inlet. Should take < 1 hr to change, taking extra care to ensure proper polarity.

73/gus
I know the op has immediate need to fix issue, but I second going to smartplug. I swapped out both inlets and went with the smartplug cable over a year ago. Great product. When the little light in the cable at the connection to AS inlet went out, they sent me a new cord. Also can’t speak highly enough about progressive industries ems. It has saved us several times from bad voltage, reverse polarity etc.
__________________
The Colonel and Southern Belle
The Colonel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 10:49 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
Mollysdad's Avatar

 
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,620
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr View Post
I think that this is the result of folks plugging in without flipping off the breaker first. I mean turning it off, I imagine that OP did a lot of the former when they found their arc-welded plug!
If I read the OP correctly the failure was at the inlet of the Airstream not the power pedestal.
I've never seen anyone break the connection by pulling the cord out of the RV before disconnecting from the pedestal, regardless of the breaker.
Sounds to me like something was loose in the receptacle and constant arcing caused it to burn up. I've had it happen at home, replaced the outlet and all was fine.
Mollysdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 10:55 AM   #17
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
Hi

It *would* be nice to hear from the OP and get clarification about which end of the shore power connection melted ...... If it's the pedestal end that's in the "this happens" category. If it's on the trailer end, indeed a bit of analysis is called for.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 11:00 AM   #18
Moderator
 
DKB_SATX's Avatar

 
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,493
Images: 1
Blog Entries: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

It *would* be nice to hear from the OP and get clarification about which end of the shore power connection melted ...... If it's the pedestal end that's in the "this happens" category. If it's on the trailer end, indeed a bit of analysis is called for.

Bob
The OP mentioned generic black Furrion parts available from Camping World, and that they are using the front inlet instead of the main one until they replace the part so it's pretty clear it's the inlet that failed.
__________________
— David

Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566

He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
DKB_SATX is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 11:04 AM   #19
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgebhardt View Post
The previous owner of our trailer installed a SmartPlug. From my subsequent research this looks to be a much better connector and designed to prevent the issue you encountered.
Ditto. The 30-amp SmartPlug was an easy upgrade. The only PITA was getting the new connector on the end of my shore power cable. It took some good electrical wire lubricant, a lot of force, and a thorough exercise of my sailor's vocabulary dedicated to convincing stubborn objects to comply with my wishes just to get the blankety-blank cable into the blessed strain relief. From there, it was just follow the directions and get the wires under the correct clamps. And NO, it is NOT a good idea to tin the wires with solder--that just makes the strands stiff and more likely to break under vibration...

The trailer-side receptacle fits exactly in the factory-drilled hole, down to the screw pattern and hole diameter that the old one used. The only problem was the three pounds of sealant, applied at the factory, that encapsulated the wiring inside a plastic enclosure buried in the wall. Getting that out took two hours and more use of the appropriate foul vocabulary...

The SmartPlug has a nice rubber gasket that seals the opening from the outside, and a touch of sealant around the top and sides of that gasket should be enough to keep water out. Leave a little weep space at the bottom. On my international, the power inlet is behind the shower enclosure, and the depth of the SmartPlug is such that it is right up against the backside of the enclosure. Can't be helped. I made sure the wire exits from the SmartPlug so it is not kinked, in the way of the screws, and properly routed inside.

What I like about the SmartPlug is that the connection is much more secure and easy to make, the plug and socket have gaskets to keep water out, and the cover looks really tidy on the side of the Airstream--shiny stainless steel, since it is intended for use exposed to the weather on boats. The contacts are bigger and wider, and make a better connection than the old twist-lock plug and receptacle. The plug also has a waterproof cover that ties onto the cable for convenience. The plug and receptacle latch together, and is more compact than the original.

Here's the one downside--it's a proprietary connector that you will not easily find in the local RV supply store--be careful not to lose track of your shore power cable. I also added a bigger, Camco replacement connector to the other end--it's got a nice grip handle and is bright yellow--much sturdier than the original molded one, and easier to replace if needed. I also carry a standard RV-30 extension cord for the odd RV park situation or when I want my inverter generator further away from me..
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
rmkrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 12:46 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
TBRich's Avatar

 
2006 19' Safari SE
Tucson , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,627
Images: 64
This happened to us while parked at home ... two days before we were leaving on a trip. The 30-amp receptacle on the trailer AND the shore power cord both charred/melted...

At the time we were plugged into a dedicated 30-amp circuit at our home and the circuit breaker in the house's circuit board tripped. We took it in to our RV guy the next morning...he pulled it and discovered that the interior connection on the trailer had come loose so the wire was free and caused the receptacle to melt around the offending prong.

Sure glad we discovered it while at home and that it was a relatively easy fix. In additional to the 30-amp receptacle on the trailer, we bought a new cord.
__________________
TB & Greg and Abbey Schnauzer
AirForums #21900
PastPrez, 4CU/WBCCI
TBRich is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
No Power to Trailer When Hooked to 30A Receptacle hwm Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 05-21-2017 06:38 PM
Melted exterior floodlight cover wacnstac Lights - Interior & Exterior 14 03-26-2008 04:09 AM
30A Upgrade to 30A + 20A Wayne Olson Classic Motorhomes 10 12-12-2006 03:51 PM
Alternator wire melted airstream963 Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 5 05-07-2005 06:46 PM
Melted lens? Rickj Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 3 01-02-2004 11:17 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.